Andrew6.688

I've been looking into getting a head and cam package from Lloyd Elliot for mt 94, and need to stay emissions friendly down in georgia. I'm not looking to run 10's or anything, I'm just looking for a bit (or a lot) more power to hang with my friends who have coyote 5.0's.

Whats my best option for a daily driver that hasn't been to the track yet (not one within 3 hours) , and is driven like an old man 85% of the time.

Looking for a cam that sounds as much like van halens "hot for teacher" drum intro, but keeps me emissions friendly and daily drive-able.

cars mostly stock at 80k, so what else should i put on/replace at the same time, fuel pressure regulator? TPS? bigger injectors? Throttle body?

Car has a cold air intake and a big race filter, 160 t-stat, TB bypass, msd coil, and soon to get long tubes on her, and id probably get a mail tune vs a dyno tune.

OVA1

iTrader: (12)

Fresh heads will make a ridiculous difference… fresh heads that flow more than your stockers: WAY Mo'Betta.

Forget the TB, it's not going to do anything in terms of helping get you where you said ya want to go.

In terms of cam, that too depends upon where you want to go… but if most of your runs are on the short end (light to Light, 0-80~) then I would look at a cam that helps in the low-mid aspect of your power curve… If your runs are big end, topping out 130 or better, then obviously you spend more time up top and THAT is where ya want to look at getting the most from your mods.

I didn't see anything that screamed: "I am all about OD TOP SPEED", so we're talkin' low-mid range improvements.

Now then, if you've been on this sight for more than ten minutes, you know of the woes that await you in the drive-train, the MOMENT you stick on a set of sticky tires and start tearing out from a well footed dig. Not going to speak to that, as we all prefer to pretend it will never happen to us, until it does… and suffice it to say, it happens (or has happened) to all of us, at least once… with 4 times being my current count.

So, when I was where you are, I opted for the Comp Cams grind# 07-466-8

http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...csid=1110&sb=0

I also added a fresh valve job up top (see ad), set of 4.10s out back and I refreshed the bottom end with new bearings and rings set of 1 7/8th Hookers (Not the way to go there, MAJOR PIA to install… Better with the Kooks 1 3/4) and a Vig 3200 stall (since upgraded to the Yank SS3600).

But the car was revolutionized, picking up well over a second and a half in the 1/8th mile… taking me from mid 9s, to high 7s. (I also added a set of MTs on the hook… BE CAREFUL HERE! You will NOT GET OUT OF THAT with YOUR DIF' INTACT! HEAR ME ON THIS… Unless you're just determined, then I would wish you God Speed and advise you to get yourself some spar-age… just to save ya some time.)

A decent set of DRs; girdle up wouldn't be crazy… (it won't help much… but it looks cool) and brother, as long as you're not giving the Coyote their race… all the time… You're in for your share. Add my heads and double that…

Edit: Don't forget the tune…

TO recap: Here're the bullet points:

- Heads
- Cam
- Headers
- Gears (4.10s)
- Stall… (if you're an A4)

Hope that helps…

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I'd call Lloyd, and AI, and ask what they recommend. Lloyd's 224/230 is supposedly emissions friendly, and AI has a few too. There are other places to call too, TEA, RPM, just to shop around. Heads cam and you'll be fine against a 5.0, no need for adjustable fpr, you'll need 30lb injectors and a tune for the cam and injectors before the initial startup. No need for throttle body, just heads, cam, mid or long tube headers, injectors, NSA rockers, guide plates, pushrods, rocker studs, reuse your 94 non TTY head bolts, new 0.026 gasket, TUNE, and your good.

OVA1

iTrader: (12)

Can't argue with that…

My new AFR 210 LTs are sitting at Lloyd's right now. Formula I posted up for ya, however, will remain valid… within the scope of his grind recommendations.

I don't do emissions… so forgive the intolerance for such nonsensical governmental intrusions upon my right to go fast, responsibly…

Mid-tubes are a waste of money…

Andrew6.688

so if i get a set from Lloyd what else am i looking to pick up to complete the job? Gaskets, fluids, bolts, etc. I'm just looking to make a shopping list so i can buy everything ahead of time.

Will my bottom end hold up fine, or should i drop the LT1 out the bottom and just do every seal along with a bottom end refresh? how much would that increase the cost of the job?

Thanks

KyleW707

I did le1 heads, cc503 cam, valvetrain, 36# injectors, all new gaskets and seals, and lt headers, all at the same time, it ran me around 2 grand, doing the labor myself.

Andrew6.688

Cool Cool, im looking to shoot for 2k, figure its gonna be 2500-2800

OVA1

iTrader: (12)

Well, seems like ya said you've got 80+K on the bottom right now.

In all honesty, if you're going to pull the engine, I can't see why ya wouldn't clean up the bottom. New seals, slide in new Crank and Cam bearings and while you're in there, a new set of rings will pay off every time ya throw the hammer. ARP up the Crank Bolts, for a few extra bucks… It's not that much more, in terms of either time or money. But the peace of mind it will bring is MONEY IN THE BANK!

I can't recall the price for bearings and rings, but suffice it to say, it was minimal in terms of the other stuff, heads, crank, rods, pistons, yadda yadda…

Rule of Thumb… Having considered all aspects of your build, goals, parts to accomplish those goals, machine shop, BEER for buddies to stand around and talk ****… Take your budget… and double it. That way it won't hurt so much when you turn the key and spark her up, having come in way over THAT.