LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Oil Cooler

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Old 10-13-2013, 04:03 PM
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Default Oil Cooler

Have several questions about our oil coolers. Hoping a lot of us beginners can learn from this thread. Just did an oil change with a valvoline filter (not sure how good they are). I did a mix weight of 2 quarts of 0W-20 & 3 of 5W-40 Full Synthetic. Reason that being is because we were all out of the Full 5W-20 Synthetic in the tank. Only had individual bottle quarts left. Yeah free oil change at our shop Anyways onto my questions that sparked my interest while I was messing with Rockauto.com

Where is the actual oil cooler? In the Radiator? Im not talking about the pipes on top of the oil filter. I tried googling it, but the only pics that show are the hoses coming from the top of the filter.

Why does one of the oil hoses go into the water pump?

What is stock oil temp?
Old 10-13-2013, 06:13 PM
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I'm not all that familiar with the piping of the oil cooler, so I'll dodge that question. However, why would you consider running 5W-20 oil in the car? The factory recommended fill is 5W-30 at the lightest, and 10W-30 if your area's temps are always above 35-40*... (your avatar does say "Orlando", as in FLORIDA, right?)
Old 10-13-2013, 10:12 PM
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The hoses from the oil cooler go into the cooling system, because that is what it uses for heat exchange. No oil leaves the filter adapter/cooler plate.

Diagrams on my website.
Old 10-14-2013, 07:59 AM
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I removed my "cooler" 3 years ago and i'm glad I did. less crap under the car and plus it leaked.
Old 10-14-2013, 05:03 PM
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Seeing as LT1s tend to show the best UOAs with thick 30weight oils like Syntec 0w-30 labeled "made in Germany" rather than thinner 30weight oils like M1 5w-30 or M1 10w-30 I would not be going to an anything-w-20. The first number does NOT tell you anything about operating temp viscosity but I would not be using a 20weight unless it was a drag engine torn down regularly to inspect tings. I know some drag racers use thin oil.

As covered the "cooler" simply routes coolant down to the filter adapter. it is of questionable usefulness, and if running synthetic with lowered fan temps of even less use. Factory fan temps are 20+degrees higher than necessary even with a stock stat, most guys run a lower temp stat plus lower fan temps making the cooler even less useful. LOTS of guys delete them without issue.

The Vette got synthetic because of no cooler, some b-bodies came with no cooler even with their extra weight, I believe I even had a wagon with no cooler despite an over 4400lbs base curb weight.
Old 10-14-2013, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I'm not all that familiar with the piping of the oil cooler, so I'll dodge that question. However, why would you consider running 5W-20 oil in the car? The factory recommended fill is 5W-30 at the lightest, and 10W-30 if your area's temps are always above 35-40*... (your avatar does say "Orlando", as in FLORIDA, right?)
Yeap I usually run 5w-40 based on the fact I havent got into the habit of waiting 5 minutes for the motor to warm up before I drive off. As far as a 5w-20 its a little too light especially here in florida. Our company does oil changes to imports most which require a 5w-20 but even then I still dont believe in florida cars should run that low of a weight. Of-course they come up with the excuse of “gets better MPG” but in all seriousness I rather loose MPG and gain protection in sunny florida. Swapped out the 0w-20 BS for some SynPower 5W-40 I ordered.
Old 10-15-2013, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 93Euphoria
Yeap I usually run 5w-40 based on the fact I havent got into the habit of waiting 5 minutes for the motor to warm up before I drive off.
You don't have to "wait 5 minutes"......Just start the car, and drive off sensibly for 5 minutes. When the water temp is up to 160, then you can "lean on it", if you feel it's necessary.
Old 10-15-2013, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
You don't have to "wait 5 minutes"......Just start the car, and drive off sensibly for 5 minutes. When the water temp is up to 160, then you can "lean on it", if you feel it's necessary.
Lol yeap thats pretty much what I do. On cold drive start-up ill keep the rpms to a max of 15-1600, then once the temp gauge makes a move (depending if im in a economical mood) ill keep the rpm around 2000 until I get on I-95.



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