Oil Cooler
#1
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Oil Cooler
Have several questions about our oil coolers. Hoping a lot of us beginners can learn from this thread. Just did an oil change with a valvoline filter (not sure how good they are). I did a mix weight of 2 quarts of 0W-20 & 3 of 5W-40 Full Synthetic. Reason that being is because we were all out of the Full 5W-20 Synthetic in the tank. Only had individual bottle quarts left. Yeah free oil change at our shop Anyways onto my questions that sparked my interest while I was messing with Rockauto.com
Where is the actual oil cooler? In the Radiator? Im not talking about the pipes on top of the oil filter. I tried googling it, but the only pics that show are the hoses coming from the top of the filter.
Why does one of the oil hoses go into the water pump?
What is stock oil temp?
Where is the actual oil cooler? In the Radiator? Im not talking about the pipes on top of the oil filter. I tried googling it, but the only pics that show are the hoses coming from the top of the filter.
Why does one of the oil hoses go into the water pump?
What is stock oil temp?
#2
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I'm not all that familiar with the piping of the oil cooler, so I'll dodge that question. However, why would you consider running 5W-20 oil in the car? The factory recommended fill is 5W-30 at the lightest, and 10W-30 if your area's temps are always above 35-40*... (your avatar does say "Orlando", as in FLORIDA, right?)
#3
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The hoses from the oil cooler go into the cooling system, because that is what it uses for heat exchange. No oil leaves the filter adapter/cooler plate.
Diagrams on my website.
Diagrams on my website.
#5
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Seeing as LT1s tend to show the best UOAs with thick 30weight oils like Syntec 0w-30 labeled "made in Germany" rather than thinner 30weight oils like M1 5w-30 or M1 10w-30 I would not be going to an anything-w-20. The first number does NOT tell you anything about operating temp viscosity but I would not be using a 20weight unless it was a drag engine torn down regularly to inspect tings. I know some drag racers use thin oil.
As covered the "cooler" simply routes coolant down to the filter adapter. it is of questionable usefulness, and if running synthetic with lowered fan temps of even less use. Factory fan temps are 20+degrees higher than necessary even with a stock stat, most guys run a lower temp stat plus lower fan temps making the cooler even less useful. LOTS of guys delete them without issue.
The Vette got synthetic because of no cooler, some b-bodies came with no cooler even with their extra weight, I believe I even had a wagon with no cooler despite an over 4400lbs base curb weight.
As covered the "cooler" simply routes coolant down to the filter adapter. it is of questionable usefulness, and if running synthetic with lowered fan temps of even less use. Factory fan temps are 20+degrees higher than necessary even with a stock stat, most guys run a lower temp stat plus lower fan temps making the cooler even less useful. LOTS of guys delete them without issue.
The Vette got synthetic because of no cooler, some b-bodies came with no cooler even with their extra weight, I believe I even had a wagon with no cooler despite an over 4400lbs base curb weight.
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I'm not all that familiar with the piping of the oil cooler, so I'll dodge that question. However, why would you consider running 5W-20 oil in the car? The factory recommended fill is 5W-30 at the lightest, and 10W-30 if your area's temps are always above 35-40*... (your avatar does say "Orlando", as in FLORIDA, right?)
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Lol yeap thats pretty much what I do. On cold drive start-up ill keep the rpms to a max of 15-1600, then once the temp gauge makes a move (depending if im in a economical mood) ill keep the rpm around 2000 until I get on I-95.