Link Bar lifters? Or keep the stock style?
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Link Bar lifters? Or keep the stock style?
Hey guys, I'm trying to piece together the components for my 355 build and was wondering if there is any reason to go with link bar lifters instead the stock spider tray setup? This car sees track time quite often during the summer as well as weekly cruising. I would like to do this once and not worry about because I've seen what can happen when a spider tray fails.
Opinions?
If needed, here's what i'm doing.
Stock crank, Scat 6" rods, Mahle powerpak pistons, AI 200cc heads and 228/234 Cam, stock intake and TB.
Opinions?
If needed, here's what i'm doing.
Stock crank, Scat 6" rods, Mahle powerpak pistons, AI 200cc heads and 228/234 Cam, stock intake and TB.
#3
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
#8
9-Second Club
iTrader: (1)
I had a sheet metal "spider" fail once. The bar came off the top of that pair, one lifter rotated 90 degrees, and wiped out the cam lobe. Which also put metal in my bearings, etc, etc. You don't have to buy Morel lifters. No more spring that you will be running, any link style lifters will be fine.
#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
If the spider fails I would suspect that is a symptom of valve control issues not as the root of the problem.
I would just say don't overthink it.
People get too caught up in this kind of stuff and then drop the ball on big details.
If the coin is there and it makes you feel better buy something highend, but at the same time reusing stock original usually works perfectly.
I would just say don't overthink it.
People get too caught up in this kind of stuff and then drop the ball on big details.
If the coin is there and it makes you feel better buy something highend, but at the same time reusing stock original usually works perfectly.
#11
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Apopka FL
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Hey guys, I'm trying to piece together the components for my 355 build and was wondering if there is any reason to go with link bar lifters instead the stock spider tray setup? This car sees track time quite often during the summer as well as weekly cruising. I would like to do this once and not worry about because I've seen what can happen when a spider tray fails.
Opinions?
If needed, here's what i'm doing.
Stock crank, Scat 6" rods, Mahle powerpak pistons, AI 200cc heads and 228/234 Cam, stock intake and TB.
Opinions?
If needed, here's what i'm doing.
Stock crank, Scat 6" rods, Mahle powerpak pistons, AI 200cc heads and 228/234 Cam, stock intake and TB.
#14
9 Second Club
iTrader: (7)
link bars are def more reliable in a high rpm application but to be honest with what you are doing there the spider set up is fine with a set of $135 LS7 lifters, that's all id run........no need to go spending crazy $$$ on fancy stuff there........when you put the spider in brakekleen the threads on the bolts and the block and just put a dab of red Loctite and they will never back off........not that they would anyway without it lol
#16
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
I've got Comp R's for sale, bruh, or did Bert preach the voodoo to you too? And why does everyone believe loc-tite is necessary for about every bolt on a f-body car? There is no reason to put loc-tite on the bolts for the spider tray. Just torque them down (to spec if you are OCD) and don't worry about it again.
#17
Man-Crush Warning
iTrader: (1)
I've got Comp R's for sale, bruh, or did Bert preach the voodoo to you too? And why does everyone believe loc-tite is necessary for about every bolt on a f-body car? There is no reason to put loc-tite on the bolts for the spider tray. Just torque them down (to spec if you are OCD) and don't worry about it again.
Loctite, lockwasher, and safety wire. Thats what you need.
#20
I have a set of the Caddy Racing lifters with an AFR hydra-rev kit in my new forced induction setup because I need extra spring pressure for the boost but knew it would collapse the plunger if I added stouter valvesprings.