Help!! LT1 heads, cam??
#1
Help!! LT1 heads, cam??
Looking for the best good aluminum heads, hot street performance hyd cam for use with my 94 T/A Lt1 (bolt on's so far, MAF, K&N cold air, 4.10 gears, 3.5" alum drive shaft). I was also thinking about a 4L80E to replace current 4L60E, if that is possible. I sure I will need a stall convertor and 58MM inj.
Any advise would be great cause I know you guys know what works. I sold my 70 Nova last year (496inch BB, M22 with 4.10 gears) and ran across this 94 Trans Am and have just had a blast with it but still have a few Honda's and stangs get around me and that must stop!!!!!
Any advise would be great cause I know you guys know what works. I sold my 70 Nova last year (496inch BB, M22 with 4.10 gears) and ran across this 94 Trans Am and have just had a blast with it but still have a few Honda's and stangs get around me and that must stop!!!!!
#3
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Well, based upon your previous ride, I'll assume you won't be satisfied by taking baby steps here So I agree with 'nate .... go straight to AI or LE for an instant infusion of over 100 hp with one of their cam/heads packages.
Get rid of the aftermarket MAF sensor and run the stock F-body unit. We'll just give you the benefit of the doubt and say the previous owner made that swap The stock unit is good to 500 rwhp. Regardless of whether anybody is convinced that they noticed an improvement with an aftermarket one, it can only do that by altering the calibration, which will give your tuner nothing but fits when you get it tuned for the power you'll be adding to the car.
Personally, I'd stick with the 4L60E. BUT.......if you have to rely on run-of-the-mill trans shops to build you one rather than one the few competent 4L60E-specific builders, and if you're OK with the big up-front cost and swap issues of a 4L80E, it's certainly a tougher box. One of these "pony-car" guys can fill you in on the details of fitting one into an F-body But then......I'd be more worried about the stock rear than the 4L60
Get rid of the aftermarket MAF sensor and run the stock F-body unit. We'll just give you the benefit of the doubt and say the previous owner made that swap The stock unit is good to 500 rwhp. Regardless of whether anybody is convinced that they noticed an improvement with an aftermarket one, it can only do that by altering the calibration, which will give your tuner nothing but fits when you get it tuned for the power you'll be adding to the car.
Personally, I'd stick with the 4L60E. BUT.......if you have to rely on run-of-the-mill trans shops to build you one rather than one the few competent 4L60E-specific builders, and if you're OK with the big up-front cost and swap issues of a 4L80E, it's certainly a tougher box. One of these "pony-car" guys can fill you in on the details of fitting one into an F-body But then......I'd be more worried about the stock rear than the 4L60