1995 Camaro SS LT1 First Car
01-04-2014, 10:30 AM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: New york
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
1995 Camaro SS LT1 First Car I got a 1995 Camaro SS for my first car. it does need a few things some major others not so major. first things first my father and i are likely going to rebuild the engine. any tips on rebuilding or removing the engine are appreciated. a few plastics under the hood are missing such as the cover for the relay box i was wondering if anyone could help me out with one of those because i have been having a tough time finding them online. also the plastic dash is cracked pretty bad any idea where i can get a replacement for not a bazillion dollars. Even though the car does need alot there are alot of things the car already has such as sub frame connectors, scanmaster LT1, a few extra gauges and an Accel ignition system. Also does anyone know where i can get a set of shorty headers without the y pipe that will go inplace of the stock headers?
01-04-2014, 02:58 PM
#5
Al > 02 Z28, 95 Z28, 86 Iroc, 73 Z28
01-04-2014, 04:02 PM
#6
Don't "rebuild" the engine unless there is indication of a problem. The stock engine is pretty good and not particularly harmed by mileage. First lesson should be don't go creating problems solving "issues" that never existed.
If there is an engine problem understand the stock engine is good and not cheap to improve on so ask a lot of questions FIRST and LISTEN to the answers. We don't want you to be yet another kid who meant well but bought a lot of JUNK and screwedup an otherwise decent car, it happens all the time.
If there is an engine problem understand the stock engine is good and not cheap to improve on so ask a lot of questions FIRST and LISTEN to the answers. We don't want you to be yet another kid who meant well but bought a lot of JUNK and screwedup an otherwise decent car, it happens all the time.
Trending Topics
01-04-2014, 07:07 PM
#8
Dont touch the damn thing until you read days and days and days worth of threads on whatever subject it is that you are thinking about undertaking. Your dad may be an old school small block chevy guy or hotrodder, but that has NOTHING to do with LT1 engines. For example, dont replace the stock lightweight and strong hyper mahle 1.5/1.5/3mm pistons with some big heavy *** old school pistons, and these motors are fine on pump gas up to 13:1.
01-05-2014, 09:45 AM
#9
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: New york
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The car has a rod knock so we are first just going to see if the block is able to be saved and then go from there
01-06-2014, 09:33 AM
#10
TECH Fanatic
01-06-2014, 05:06 PM
#11
A generic "rebuild" even at local "performance" shop is very often a step backwards from stock.
Do a LOT of reading FIRST and ask a LOT of questions FIRST. Too many people make posts with "here is my parts list now tell me how great it is" and then we have to tell them it is all a mistake. Cast aftermarket cranks are weaker than stock, MANY MANY aftermarket pistons are heavier than stock which is more rod stress and have thicker rings for more parasitic losses and bore wear than stock.
If I had a motor with a rod knock and wanted to "build" it I would spend $800 or so on Mahle Powerpak or equivalent 4032 forged pistons and a basic 6.0" capscrew Scat rod. I wouldn't do anything cheaper.
If you want cheaper just find a stock rod and maybe crank(stock crank is pretty darn good) depending on the damage. If you need a stock rod speak up, I am sure a lot of us have some laying around. I wouldn't fix a stock rod because they endup short and the piston further down in the bore when they are already plenty far down.
Don't get caught up in crap like letting a local shop slap bigger valves in the heads, or sold on a cam before asking here.
There are a lot of us here who want to help folks if they will let themselves be helped.
Do a LOT of reading FIRST and ask a LOT of questions FIRST. Too many people make posts with "here is my parts list now tell me how great it is" and then we have to tell them it is all a mistake. Cast aftermarket cranks are weaker than stock, MANY MANY aftermarket pistons are heavier than stock which is more rod stress and have thicker rings for more parasitic losses and bore wear than stock.
If I had a motor with a rod knock and wanted to "build" it I would spend $800 or so on Mahle Powerpak or equivalent 4032 forged pistons and a basic 6.0" capscrew Scat rod. I wouldn't do anything cheaper.
If you want cheaper just find a stock rod and maybe crank(stock crank is pretty darn good) depending on the damage. If you need a stock rod speak up, I am sure a lot of us have some laying around. I wouldn't fix a stock rod because they endup short and the piston further down in the bore when they are already plenty far down.
Don't get caught up in crap like letting a local shop slap bigger valves in the heads, or sold on a cam before asking here.
There are a lot of us here who want to help folks if they will let themselves be helped.