350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Hey guys I was looking at getting the Lloyd Elliot stage one port job and the 224/230 cam which is said to make good power all around and run between 1700-6100RPM. They say this combo is capable of making 360-380 rear wheel horsepower, any one have any experience with this setup or with the bigger cams such as there 226/232 or the 232/240?

I am looking to keep my 96 lt1 m6 very streetable and I love the low end torque and don't want to lose it when choosing a cam to go with the heads. I would think even 350rwhp could get me in the 12's and keep my low end torque. Car is stock right now besides CAI and 2.5 inch stainless exhaust after the converters. It does have a I-pipe muffler but I don't know how good it flows or if it is any good for that matter? Any input would be great!

Of course I would add headers/ air foil / throttle body bypass/ and a cheap tune to go with the cam and head package. I would like to keep the stock bottom end, and it is a 6 speed! You can see my car in my profile.

wht97ws6ta

If all your shooting for is 12s then put the long tube headers on and get some 4.10 gears and a tune and some sticky tires. Car should go 12s all day long with just that if you can yank on some gears pretty good.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

I'm thinking as little as 300 rwhp will net you 12s....if you can shift good. You should have 4.10 gears for any cam to really work good, they're just a perfect match for the LT1/T56 combo with or without a cam.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Can't really believe that my 300 crank hp lt1 "if even that" with adding headers, gears, and sticky tires would put me in the 12's. I bet it would maybe hit high 13's with traction and gears. Long tubes might add 15hp. I'm guessing with those mods I might hit a 13.4-13.5 real world, just a guess though. I am a beginner with building engines but smart enough to know that if you want to add some real power you got to flow the heads and have a cam to make those heads work. Have been looking at LE and Advanced Induction.

Fact is I really don't care what it runs in the 1/4. I am just using possible E.T's to get a estimate of power potential with head and cam packages.
I want it to stay streetable and I would like to keep my 342's in the rear for now for gas mileage. I am guessing that with the LE heads and small streetable cam that the car would easily make 350 rwhp and be a hell of a lot more fun for daily driving than my estimated 250rwhp at the moment.

BALLSS

350..

a very mild cam with good heads will get you 350 hp

I had a 214/220 custom cam with mildly ported heads 2.02/1.60 valves that made 350 rwhp/351 rwtq

I would think Lloyds stage 1 package would make that. He would advise HP/TQ with his package

HellTeeOne

I made 358rwhp with stock heads that had never been off the motor, and a very modest sized cam.

All it takes is full exhaust/headers and induction, rockers/cam/springs, and a good tune.

If you're going to go through the work and expense to remove the heads go ahead and get some GOOD ones and shoot for 400rwhp.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Bolton cars have done over 300rwhp as long as you consider springs and rockers boltons. and even bolton b-bodies have been in the 12s some of them low and mid.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

If you're concerned about gas milage then stay away from a cam change, I lost 2 mpg, which I could care less about. Changing from 3.42s to 4.10s cost me 1 mpg but really improved the usefulness of the double overdrives in the M6. I currently get 14+ mpg around town down from 17 mpg completely stock. It's good you're doing your research but keep in mind building a fast car doesn't stop at the flywheel.

duh

iTrader: (16)

Mods in my sig gave me a best of 12.99 last fall. Did a 3.73 gear right before winter and had an unfortunate incident with some ice in January so it got a 9" last weekend. I'll update the time after next weekend. Shooting for 12.5-12.7's NA.

You definitely DON'T need heads and cam to run 12's.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Boltons only I went 12.53 on stock springs and rockers, 12.39 with springs and rockers. I put down maybe 300-315rwhp and have over 100k miles. Heads and cam should give mid 11s. Stock if you can drive you should be high 13s. My friend went 13.8 at 101 in a stock formula with a CAI his first day at the track in his life.

wht97ws6ta

I'd dare say anyone who got in that car just like it sits that knows how to drive the heck out of a stick could very easily pull off some 13.80s at 97 to 100 mph traps with good traction. My 97 trans am would do 14.0s at 97 mph with 3.23s and a auto trans. I put 3.73 gears in it and run 13.80s. Put pacesetter long tube headers on and went straight to 13.40s untuned. Later I went to 4.10s and had it tuned and the car would consistently run 13.0s at around 105 mph occasionally 107. Car made 282 HP 312 ft lbs of torque like that. If you want to keep your gas mileage then I would do the long tube headers and 4.10s. I'm quite certain you would see high 12 sec quarters. If its not going to be a dragstrip queen then I would stay out of the motor. You could run high 12s for a long time with the motor untouched. If you do the heads and cam on some sticky tires then your gonna want to be fitting a 12 bolt or 9" ford rear end into your budget to.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for all the great info guys! It is nice to know my Lt1 will respond well to all mods! Yeah I'm pretty sure I could pull a 13.8-13.9 as the car stands if I can get it to hook up. I trapped 100mph with my gtec spinning out of first gear a month ago.

I think I will go with some long tubes, y pipe, throttle body bypass, air foil, and a tune and see how I like the gains from that before I jump into porting heads. Springs and rockers could be on the menu too! I would like to keep the car reliable and get some major miles out of this engine, it has 77,000 miles on it right now and has burned no oil since I bought it with 2700 miles on it so far. I drive it to work usually 3 days a week, 24 rural miles one way, makes the commute more interesting with a little power.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Long tubes, a CAI and a tune have the biggest gain in hp for the price on a stock lt1. The vette has the same engine and was rated 30hp higher just due to choking down the Camaro motor with a shitty intake and exhaust to keep Chevys elite car having more hp. Just doing intake and exhaust and doing a tune to get the AFR back right gains 30rwhp. The springs and rockers just let you spin it high enough to use all available power, no real hp gain, but shifting at 6300 vs 5200 lets you use the whole curve. You want the torque at that rpm x trans gear ratio of the next gear to be higher than the torque at that rpm of the current trans gear ratio.

Mystery Bird

iTrader: (7)

If you put heads and cam in a six speed car with 3.42 gears it will be a dog down low. You will be moving your HP and TQ curve higher up in the RPM range. Gear change is a great low bang for the buck SOTP feel upgrade. A friend of mine has shorty headers, a few bolt-on, 4:10 gears, and sticky tires. He can run 12.8s.

HellTeeOne

If a heads/cam setup is peaky, then yes a M6 car would be a dog with stock gears down low. However, most good H/C setups are not really peaky. Mine does fine with stock 3.42s, the only complaint I have is that the overdrives are less useful due to a bit of surge down low, but it still will pull willingly from anywhere on the tach. If anything it has more grunt down low now than it did stock. On the street it's not really an issue because heavy throttle from any RPM in either first or second blows away the street tires either way.

That said, when I upgrade rears I'm still going to 4.10s. And 4.10s will help a bolt-on car as well. Even someone with a bolt-on car might want to go ahead and get a rear upgrade though because the stock 10-bolt with 4.10s won't tolerate many dragstrip flogs, even at the stock power level.