mhslax6

I searched but don't see a definite answer... When installing should I grease the hub and/or crank?

BALLSS

clean both crank & inner side of hub. can even use some emery cloth. I never "grease" it but some have suggested anti seize.

IMHO just install it clean, I always have. Use the correct install tool

mhslax6

I bought some B7 all thread and some hardened washers and nut. Planned on putting a bearing between the washers and pressing it on that way. Couldn't find a LT1 Kent Moore tool that was under $150.00 on EBay or Craigslist.

chopperdave90

learned a little trick BDS recommended for my blower hub.......put it in the oven and heat it up. just put mine back on the other day and it was super easy to install.

chopperdave90

I know they said it wasn't recommended but I just got a little longer grade 8 bolt to get it on far enough to get a good bite with the stock bolt with some anti sieze on the bolt and stock thick washer. You will be amazed the difference heating the hub up does.

mhslax6

Off subject...... but... Felpros instuctions for the seals on the timing cover states to use break in oil?? I put all three seals in "dry", metal to metal, and applied some high temp grease to the crank seal rubber area.. Is this right??. Was throwing the Felpro box away and saw this small piece of paper with these instructions and makes it sound like I need break-in oil for a short time and that I should have greased the outside red section of the crank seal.

BALLSS

you did it right. the opti & wp seals install "dry". the crank seal you can use oil/grease on the "inner" lip. Don't use anything on the outer edges of any seals on TC

BALLSS

yeah they rarely pop up anymore.

yes, torch or oven heating makes it go on easier, just wear gloves :-)

ah yeah not recommended. you don't want the draw force on crank threads....you want them on the "tool"..be it threaded rod or a installer tool (Kent Moore).

chopperdave90

Well I couldn't get the tool or find threaded rod to make one. Heated it up and went right on. Didn't even turn the crank. I don't think the threads were in jeopardy at all. I'm guessing putting it in the oven makes a huge difference. Don't get me wrong....I was a little hesitant but after doing it this way, driving all over town trying to find the stuff to make an install tool was a waste of time. To each his own though. I was just ready to get this done and my snap on guy and my Matco guy did not offer a tool for this.

mhslax6

So using the threaded rod is OK?

BALLSS

yes. that way you are tightening the nut on the threaded rod part to pull in the hub. getting a few large washers that sandwich a flat bearing helps minimize the effort. you can buy those types of bearings at most hardware stores in the bolt section

striping crank threads...can happen when you try to pull a hub on using the crank bolt. Some who heat the hub first have no problems doing it that way but if so use a longer bolt so it gets deep into the crank and has more threads to hold it. The stock bolt with hub out only grabs a few threads and that is when you can strip the threads as the bolt really does not have enough bite compared to the force you are putting on it to pull the hub on

if you ever find one of these on ebay, buy it if $ is good. They typically sell for $150-$200 now though