camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

So I replaced valve springs back in November due to breaking one of them. It broke up top, first coil under the retainer. Not sure if they were Comp Cam beehives or PACs.

Replaced all of them with PAC1218 springs. Valve train was loud, I tried to readjust it in the spring, still loud.

Had someone check the valve train while I had it apart when I got to FL, seemed one of the lifters was bleeding down. If the car ran for longer periods of time the sound would go away, only to come back the next time the car was fired up. Also when this person checked out things and adjusted the rockers the offending lifter seemed to appear as it wouldn't snug up after zero lash I guess is how I would put it.

Well new lifters are in....... car still makes the same damn noise.


Here is where I was going to post two videos, one with the rockers adjusted at 1/2 turn past zero lash and a second at 1 turn past zero lash, but for some reason my stupid phone didn't record with sound yesterday or today... So maybe there will be video of the sound tomorrow.

Components:
1.6 Ultra Promag Comp Cam roller rockers, NSA
Hardened push rods/guideplates
PAC1218 springs
New set of lifters, LS7

I will update with video tomorrow. Oil pressure is fine, 55ish at cold idle, 25 at hot idle, 40+ cruising around, around 60 at WOT.

Really scratching my head here though.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Now with video!

Sorry folks, looks like a lot of people stuck their head into this thread but I finally got the video up today.

Any help is appreciated, I cannot think of any reason for this.

JOHNNYMO

iTrader: (1)

That sounds like its deeper inside the engine than the valve trane to me...wrist pin comes to mind..maybe you can pull one plug wire at a time and see if it gets quieter or goes away when you disable the cylinder.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Thanks! I'll give that a shot tomorrow. Oh man I hope it is not in the bottom half of the motor..... It has only been in there 30k miles I think since the rebuild.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

That is not a good sound. +1 for bottom end. Don't run it any more.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

With the way the sound disappears when you rev the engine is an indication of a rod knock. As stated, don't run it any more and start taking things apart.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Well I suppose I can take the car apart and let it sit. No funds for a rebuild at the moment.

Looking to the future though while it is apart, what are some boost friendly cams? I've always wanted to go procharger or turbo. Might as well set it up while I'm in there. Or is the cc503 fine for boost and I don't need to worry about the cam to optimize gains later on?

Piston rings?

I know the motor has forged SRP pistons, forged rods(I forget what manufacture) and everything is held together by ARP hardware. Stock crank with 4 bolt mains. If it is a wrist pin, will I need to get a new rod for the cylinder that is causing it? Resize? I guess let me know what I am getting into..... Everything need balancing again then?

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Another avenue I am thinking of is picking up a short block around here, transfer my heads and cam just to get me up and running on the cheap for now, and lubricating and bagging this 4 bolt block until I can do it some justice. At least so I can still drive the car.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Well I had two local motor gurus listen to this thing. Neither thinks it is a wrist pin. One of them took a good listen to it again, he said it sounds like it is towards the back and the center, doesn't sound like it is coming from either bank. He listened up front, doesn't sound like the cam plate or anything in the 24x setup rubbing.

Here is video of it going down the road.

Could the oil pump drive have some sort of damage to make sound like this? When this motor was put together I snagged one of those oil pump drive saver metal plate things someone on here had been selling. I only wonder this due to the random drop in oil pressure that sometimes happens in 1st or 2nd gear when going WOT, but it doesn't always happen.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Well, instead of investigating why your engine is knocking or tapping, I reckon one way to go about it is to continue driving it until the problem becomes worse and more expensive to repair.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Get a stethoscope and start probing all around with the covers off and engine running.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

It's always hard to tell an engine sound over the internet, but it looks like your oil pressure is still good, and you took it up to 6000 a couple times without it blowing up or getting worse - any chance you got a busted exhaust manifold stud and it is an exhaust leak on #7?

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Well I suppose this angle wins, going to start tearing it down Monday. I've been driving my truck the last two weeks, car has been parked for a while now. I have some stuff going on this week, but next week I will brave the FL elements and hopefully have the short block out in no time. I will probably pull the heads off with the motor still in the car and take them apart first to see if anything appears wrong there.

cookseyb

Sounds like a bad lifter to me. Pull the valve covers and adjust them running messy but you will know which one it is...

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Is there a PCM fuse or relay? If so would the car still crank if it were toast?

I decided to troubleshoot a bit more before tearing it all apart, went cylinder to cylinder unhooking the coil to see if the noise changed. Made it through the driver side no problem, also cylinders 8 and 6. Unplugged cylinder 4 and tried to determine if it sounded any different. Thought it did so I went to plug it back in to make sure, the car stalled, and now will only crank, crank, crank. Will not fire off. While cranking it will build 15 psi oil pressure and my fuel pressure gauge is showing up to 60 psi while cranking.

Really confused here on what has happened. I tried resetting the pcm by unhooking the battery overnight, today hooked it back up. Will just crank, that is it. No trouble codes.

spilner

iTrader: (6)

I would cut the oil filter open and see if theres any material in there before i keep running it. Ive had two motors with bad rod bearings and both sounded like that... I hope thats not the case but start with cutting the filter and if all looks good then figure out the no start..
Good luck!

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

OK, so quick thread update!

Filter got cut open a few weeks ago, no metal!
Pulled the valve covers yesterday, new lifters are all good, pushrods are tight, didn't get shipped any lifters that went bad or anything like that.

Now the question! If it got a crack in the primary or collector, could it sound like this? I ran the car with the belt off, sound is still there. I figured as much, I wasn't leaning towards any of the accessories, but it is confirmed now regardless.

While I had it up in the air I felt around the driver side header, it almost felt like a breeze coming out of the collector? Could the crank hub have generated what I was feeling, or maybe I have a massive exhaust leak? Just throwing it out there, I haven't been driving the car but I haven't torn it apart yet either, still poking around a bit....

EDIT: Also I have EFI Live here at the house, should I hook it up and see what things are saying? Could it help point me in some direction? For instance if the readings are crazy on one bank or something?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If it's an exhaust leak the noise will get louder with the engine under load.

~~Mutt~~

Do a leak down test..

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

Got around to pulling the heads. I can see where the valve had made contact with the piston when I had the broken valve spring. Going to keep my fingers crossed that I have a bent valve or something when these heads get disassembled and examined.

Kind of shocked though that the valve doesn't even look like it had hit anything, while the forged piston shows where the valve hit the ridge of the relief. If the heads are inconclusive then of course the short block will follow shortly.