84redta

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So I've had an LT1/T56 swap done to my 88 Trans am for about 3 years now, everything going good, spun a bearing n I'm at the point I'm at right now. I went out and bought another LT1 to make this a short n simple process, my question comes down to how I put it back together. Originally I had a 93 fbody motor, aluminum heads with unknown mileage on entire engine, and did a tune based on an fbody tune. Never changed anything for the cai or full hooker exhaust system, but with that said, I just went out, And got a 30k mile 1995 bbody LT1 so I'd have a pretty close to fresh start, and my question lies with how I should put it together. The engine is so clean inside you could eat off of almost any part of it. I'm going to run through replacing all gaskets, including head gaskets. Should I ditch the iron heads for unknown mileage aluminum heads? Sick of reading all the alum vs iron threads that leave nothing conclusive of why one should really go one direction or another.

Either set of heads I use, I plan to lap the valves, put new valve seals in, check the springs, and deep clean everything. Had the thought to run through and polish the ports but that just seems like a lot of work for minimal return at the moment. Also if I was to run a bbody tune, can I run regular gas? I know while running the fbody tune anything but premium was crap. Also is it worth putting the cam (unknown mileage) from the 93 fbody motor into this much fresher engine? Think I'm leaning towards dropping it in the way it sits after gaskets. Let me know your thoughts, think I just want my car back on the road and not particular on how it happens as long as it does soon.

~jon

dans93z28

The 93 fbody lt1 has few differences from all the other lt1's. The 93 cam will not fit your 95 due to the dowel pin length. The intake manifold is also bit different as are the fuel rails and computer(obd1/speeddensity).

Id say just run the iron heads because if you swap to the alum you may need to get different length pushrods. Plus the aluminum heads might sell for a couple bucks, I doubt the iron ones will.

IMO reseal everything and go with it. It will be the cheap/easy/fast way to have a running car.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

I think you're wasting time and money removing and disassembling heads on a 30k mile motor that's as clean as you say. I'd upgrade the valvesprings and replace the valve seals. That's all.
If not porting the heads, then I'd take low mileage clean irons over unknown condition aluminums.
Yes, a stock B-body tune can run 87 octane.
I wouldn't waste the time swapping the F-cam into the B-motor; there's not enough difference between them to make it worth your effort.

If I'm reading you correctly, the only benefit you will see from the Al heads is 40-45 lbs off the nose of the car.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Only thing I'll add is the aluminum and iron heads have different plug angles and this might be an issue as far as plug access and wire routing depending on your exhaust setup.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Good point to bring up.
I can't speak for F-body manifolds or headers, but the angled plugs in my present heads (GM aluminum) and a b!tch with the headers I have on the Impala.

84redta

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for the input so far.

As far as the aluminum heads, mileage is unknown, condition was seemingly okay on the block I had now. As far as the cam, that's what I was wondering if it was worth the time for the little cam. I've been reading the main differences was a better torque curve for the bbody to move the heavy beast, and with that said, will come better acceleration in my mind (could be wrong in thinking that). As far as swapping to the aluminum heads, I did all the alum VS. iron threads, and can't see really why I would swap the alum heads as opposed to selling them. I can't find any deficiency with the iron heads that made alum that much better. Plus keeping the engine whole happens to leave me with a 6 month warranty on the long block from the yard I got it from. As far as accessories, I plan on keeping the fbody stuff only because I have the oil cooler and all the stuff that was in an 4th gen, and it all works so I am just going to swap the front end over. I do want to swap over my 1st design opti, and my understanding of that is swapping over the cam sprocket when I get in there to replace the timing cover/gaskets.

I will need to check my headers as the angled plug did work with that because I had cut down a socket to fit it. So that is one thing I need to consider in the whole process that I hadn't till now. I've been running an OBD1 94/95 setup with the 93 intake and fuel injectors re-programmed. I plan on Sticking with my 93 intake/rails and swapping in the 95 lower mileage injectors and accordingly adjust the computer for that when I go into adjust my rear axle ratio. As far as plug wire routing and and all, I'm running the LTCC setup with LS1 coils/wires, so that is manageable regardless of which way it goes as long as there is no interference between where the plugs are and the headers, I do need to check on that.

As far as the vehicle and this swap, it was out of necessity because I have another project in the planner to replace this car as a whole. I will be going LS with that car, and this car is just up and running to keep me from rushing through the other one so I can take my time. I'm not looking at cutting any corners, just using what I have in my possession to get the job done. As far as doing a cam swap, I'd love to, but then I would have to get it tuned plus the cost of the cam. Just getting back from my wedding and pretty tapped out on funds, I'm doing this as a low budget swap, but replacing everything I can that is hard with the engine in the vehicle. All gaskets, oil pump, ect ect. I did this with the last engine, and it lasted 3 years with no flaws mechanically, and I'm looking with the fresher motor to make it last 4-5 now with a 4-5 year plan on my other car's resto/mod. Thanks for the help guys, any other thoughts, please feel free to share!

shbox

No one has mentioned this, but if you swapped the stock 93 cam into the 95, you would not be able to run the vented opti because of the small hole in the front of the 93 cam.

84redta

iTrader: (1)

I'd be using my ver. 1 opti with the vented cap I already have on ot. I retried vent onto my opti n just use it as a dummy dist for my cam/crank signal for the ltcc kit. From what I saw I could use either cam n just swap the sprocket to retain my ID splines to drive my opti. Please correct me if I'm front and I may be forced to use the 93 cam.

shbox

You can use either cam with the non-vented opti. Just address the dowel pin length.

84redta

iTrader: (1)

Alright, is there gonna be an issue running the bbody tune with only one knock sensor? And is there any benefit to be had to run the second knock sensor at this time?

BALLSS

If you have not used/tried a modified plug socket, the pic below has worked for me on my F-body AL head w/header B-body

I cut both ends down (making the socket shorter) and slotted one side

once I get the plug lose, just remove socket and un-tread by hand. I use a box end wrench vs ratchet on it

84redta

iTrader: (1)

Interesting, I just made the shorter socket for my alum heads, but was concerned of using my headers with the iron heads, didn't think about cutting that cut out of the side. Thanks!

miller09

you will have to run both knock sensors with the b body tune or have 1 tuned out by a tuner. I tried a b body pcm in my fbody with 1 knock sensor and I kept getting a knock sensor fault until I got it tuned

84redta

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I'll just stick with my fbody tune then since I made a fbody harness merged into my 88 harness.