guppymech

iTrader: (7)

If you don't have to worry about passing emissions then get some long tube headers, that'll pick up 20 hp easy. Avoid buying parts now that aren't compatible with your ultimate goals if you can. Example: Don't get Self Aligning (SA) roller rockers if one day you want to rev the engine past 6400 rpm or so. It's better to get 7/16 stud NSA rockers now. Along those lines, 4.10 gears are fun but in the 10 bolt they are a waste of $500+ dollars as that rear can't handle sticky tires to put the power to the ground. And the more power you make the 10 bolt situation only gets worse.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Long tubes have clearance issues, be careful how much you lower your car! Long tubes through magnaflows sounds badass. I think these cars sit low enough as is.

Jr.Samples

With a manual I would put in 4.10s. Makes it a different car.

jrwilliams95z28

gotta watch the stock 10 bolt, people have nuked em with 3.42's, 4:10s is just taking a weak rear and making it weaker AND subjecting it to more torque.

Huntr1117

iTrader: (18)

Do this^^. Don't waste money on a Jet chip. Don't waste money on a MAF. Keep the screen in your stock MAF. TB bypass is pretty much free and easy to do yourself. Just get a barbed fitting and a couple of hose clamps.160 degree thermostat is a cheap mod too. Just make sure to bleed your cooling system after the install. I'm not sure if a CAI is any better than your factory SS intake. LTs and a tune will give you the most noticeable increase in hp. If you're mechanically inclined, do the LTs yourself and save some $$$. You can find write-up s on this site. Save even more money and buy used parts from the forums. To be honest, some of my favorite mods to my car have been suspension mods. Adding bilsteins, a pro kit, and subframe connectors made it drive like a totally different car.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

There is even more stupidity posted now, Landspeed racer has to be a troll, because the data offered is not honest.

Far as cam cam requires a lot of supporting mods more than $1000 n supporting mds before you even buy the cam swap parts.

Then you have someone posting about LS1 stuff, a supercharger on a stock LT1 is a fragile turd, you will have cam only cars embarrassing you.

Do a lot of reading for a year or so then start thinking about mods.

ENVYMYSS

Thanks for the advice everyone. Always willing to listen

Birdracing

If I were to spend a 1000 dollars on mods I would go with a set of Pacesetter LT's, ORY, CAI, and a mail order tune. I just installed a set of LT's Pacesetter, with a ORY pipe with a PCM Forless Tune, I noticed a big difference in my car. Now with that being said I had a 3200 stall, with a shiftkit, with that and the exhaust, no problem to turn the 18's over without trying to do it.

vtec

iTrader: (1)

if i found a bone stock UNMOLESTED lt1 ss i would probably buy it if i cound scrounge up the money. that was my dream car when i was in highschool, and i would love to have a nice one now. all the ones i see on craigs have been messed with/screwed up. for those who dont think they can be collectible/valuable, i will toss my vote in and say they do have value.

ENVYMYSS

Just curious... Why do modded f-body owners say they miss or wish they had a bone stock one? Is it because once you start modding **** breaks or just wish they wouldnt have spent the money and their stuck now? Again just curious?

JOHNNYMO

iTrader: (1)

Because from a value stand point, an unmolested, low mile car is usually more appealing to a buyer than a car thats been modded. Add the SS or SLP, etc. etc. factor, and that holds even more true.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

I agree a mostly stock car is wanted. I found mine garage kept and all it had was the CAI and a slightly modded exhaust. Its nice to know that someone hasn't messed with the engine internals and screwed something up.

I wouldn't mind finding a LE Camaro for cheap though lol

Birdracing

Over this coming winter I am installing a set of heads and new cam I plan on keeping all the stock parts for the car. So far I have kept the stock converter, manifolds, and the y-pipe, I agree a unmolested car will sell a lot faster than a modded car. But for now I plan to keep my car for a while but who knows what could happen down the road. Here where I live LS1 F-Body's are going as high as 19 to 20 grand, not shitting either..

93M6Formula

You don't need a CAI, the stock SS setup, while sort of odd will support whatever you do for awhile.

My opinion on keeping it original... Most people want to buy a clean unmolested example because it's very rare that you get a modded car that was done right or to your likings. Lord knows what hidden gems you'll find in a pre built car. Documentation on EVERYTHING that you do to the car would help a lot as well as keeping all the original parts you take off.

With that said, $1000 doesn't go far for going fast. You could do a nitrous kit for $600-$800 but you didn't factor in an ignition box with timing retard, a window switch, bottle heater, gauges, switches, fuel pump and plugs which will blow past that $1000. Then your stock clutch won't take that forever so there's another expense. Then I guarantee you will grenade that 10 bolt, especially with 4.10s if you plan to race it.

My advice is Longtubes with the factory TOTL exhaust you most likey have as they sound awesome and that will save you money, throttle body by-pass, and 4.10s. Thats about all you can do with $1000 but that's where I would start.

vtec

iTrader: (1)

i've been there and done that with modded cars. the older i get, the less i care about having a fast street car. i put a gear in a guys mostly unmolested '96 ss awhile back and when i took it down the road i was amazed at how nice it was. no rattles/squeeks, tracked perfectly straight down the road with no steering input, the stock clutch was nice and smooth.... it was just a great driving car compared to my 4th gen which has been completely apart and back together a few times over. many of the aftermarket stuff you put on like headers and different exhaust stuff may not fit very well and/or have the same reliability as the stock stuff.
most all these cars have been messed with by now, so its hard to find one that isnt. value is going up on those cars for sure. when you can find running lt1 cars for $2500, i wouldn't mess with your car.
shoot, i have a '94 i would let go for $2500. lol

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Funny thing is, in stock form these cars are plenty fast to have fun on the street. I love the low end torque that my m6 makes and these cars in stock form go 0-60 in the 5.5 second range. Fact is anything after 60-70mph is just begging for tickets anyways. So what if the ls1's are faster in the quarter, 0-60 the LT1 is about even with a Ls1.

I have been rethinking my future mods. I am caring less about how much top end power a car can make and about having 450 crank hp. What really matters on the street to me is that rpm range that you drive in most. If I do any mods I want to know that it is gaining power in the 1500-5000 rpm range where most of your daily driving occurs. If I ever get a cam I want it to be a low to mid rpm monster, reving the Lt1 over 6000rpm is just asking for trouble anyways.

You may not need a CAI as mentioned above since you have a SS.

Long tubes and ORY pipe are a great idea, I want to do this too over the winter, although I think I want to run high flow cats to keep stink down.

TB bypass is a no brainer as it keeps heat off of the top of the engine.

Gears are great, but I want to keep my 342's for gas mileage.

These cars get into the 12's with cam and full bolt on's which is tempting to me. I would love to add a cam over winter but that is what starts messing with reliability and with only 80,000 miles on my car I think I want to keep the engine internals stock for reliability. It's a tempting game of adding power vs how much money you want to spend and how much reliability you want to keep. I think I am going to stick with bolt ons for now. Bolt ons should get me deep into the 13's.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

3.42s with a double overdrive is more likely to lug the engine hurting real world mileage than help it.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

With my M6 I get better gas mileage cruising at 60 mph in 6th than in 5th by far. My engine doesn't lug in 6th until under 45mph. That's just my car though, some cars may be different.

BSmiff

I would love a nice 96-97 WS6 or SS myself but I guess still being young I dont really care about having a nice street car as much as I do a fast one. Not sure I would even buy an LT1 at this point with the sheer volume of Gen III/IV stuff for sale out there cheap.