hrcslam

Don't know. Probably just belt slip with the new underdrive pulley considering I could rev it to red line and not get voltage drop before.

I'm calling it alternator overspeed pre-pulley too though.

hrcslam

Just the crank pulley, 34% under. 59 inch belt.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Have you tried a shorter belt?

hrcslam

59 is shorter. That's what's installed now.

But, the newly refurbished alternator failed (voltage regulator). So I get to replace that one under warranty again. I'm also swapping out my AC Compressor for a new one also under warranty.

hrcslam

I did get a markedly slower 3rd gear pull in (10.5V will do that apparently), it got to 110mph in 3rd (should've been more like 115MPH), 4th got to 120mph but I didn't do a full pull in 4th. The speedometer definitely reads higher than before, but the gauges were floating due to the low Voltage.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I know it's shorter. It either is or used to be called a 590K6 and was recommended for U/D pulleys. What I'm saying is have you tried a shorter belt than that? There have been complaints in the past about belt slip with the 59" belt especially with the A/C on.

hrcslam

No, 59 is the shortest one I've tried. The AC should be turning off at high rpm and there's no belt slip now.

hrcslam

Update: The Ultima Re-manufactured Alternator started doing the voltage drop again. Found this one was bad too, bad regulator per Oreilly's test. But, what it really was, was the positive terminal on the Alternator was loose, again (the last one I took back had the same issue). It would feel tight, and take the nut just fine. But when you tried to loosen it, the stud would rotate, ugh. It's not like I was gorilla torquing it or anything. Two bad alternators in a row, third bad one under warranty. I got a refund. Went to Auto Zone (in a pinch, it's my daily) and got one of their's, also life time warrantied for the same cost. Voltage drop is gone again.... for now. Hopefully for good.

BUT, the speedometer is still delayed. Real bad. I just did a 3rd gear pull to about 6500 RPM. That should be right around 111mph, speedometer showed 95mph. Even if I assume the tach was reading high (I've adjusted my Tach needle so it's pretty accurate; when I hit my limiter the tach shows 7K; my limiter is set to 6800) by 500 RPM that still puts me at 103mph. Oh well, I can live with it; still annoying though. My next attempt will involve a new gauge cluster (my trip-o-meter doesn't work anyway).

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

To me the video you posted looks like it sticks and then snaps forward. We sure it's not a mechanical issue? I am not sure you answered or already said, but does it happen at the same spot on the gauge?

hrcslam

It happens at all spots when at WOT. 1st only gets to 45ish by redline (should be 53 IIRC), 2nd is about 75ish (should be 85 IIRC), and 3rd pegs at 95ish (should be 111). They will all go passed that point in those gears, but only if I accelerate slower. The only time they were remotely close was when the voltage was dropping causing the gauges to jump (they would jump to actual speed), now that the voltage drop issue is gone they don't jump, but It never catches up. It's very weird.

I don't have much time to work this nuisance fault right now. My intake started leaking on the China wall. Pulled it and the valve covers to find 6 broken spring dampers. So I'll be swapping springs out this weekend, going with Lunati Duals this time.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

Dumb question that may have been answered, if you watch RPM via datalog does it follow the lag?

hrcslam

I looked over my datalog from the last time I was at the track (June 2014), everything matches across the board. Wow, I was short shifting like a mahmajahma! 6000 out of first! Log showed 49mph. 6100 out of 2nd, log showed 75mph. 6300 through the traps in 3rd at 108mph. My slip shows 106.52mph through the traps, my speedometer read like 95mph or some where about there, it was definitely under 100mph.

I now shift at about 6700-6800, but haven't been back to the track yet. This car is my daily and I am still on the stock rear axle. I'm holding out for a 9 inch hopefully sometime in my future, but wont go back to the track until I can put something sticky on the back.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

I mean, you could just have a crappy stepper motor in the cluster no?

hrcslam

Yes, that's why my next step is a another gauge cluster. Unless you know the part number to the stepper motor? If so that would be great and I'll give that a shot.

hrcslam

Well this just got pushed to the front burner (along with my lifters). Long story short, I got pulled over for doing 76 in a 55. Ugh. Got let off with a warning. Anyone know the part number for the stepper motors?

Long story:

I was at a stop, turning right off the highway at a red light. This particular turn is blind and cross traffic flows at 45mph (++) and right after the light the speed limit goes to 55mph. So, when I turn right here, I go. I get to 55mph briskly. Add to that I had some douche in a Camry riding me on the highway just before this turn. So I wanted to get away from him. On the highway I was doing 70 and slowly passing him, then he'd speed up, so I sped up to get away from him. Then dropped back down to 70, he catches up and rides my tail. *** hat. So, this time when I turned right, I pushed it a little harder to put some space between us. This was confirmed by the nice officer who stopped me. He said "you left him like he was standing still" LOL. Nice guy. Any way, so I punched it and left off in 2nd at 55mph, not too fast right?! My speedometer creeped up to 60mph so I figured I was good. NOPE.

About 2 miles later I'm stopped on the side of the road with some pretty flashing blue and red lights behind me and a few bright spotlights lighting up my car. So, I'm pulled over, windows down, car off, hazards on, all that jazz and the officers asks if I know why he pulled me over. No. He says he got me locked in on his radar at 76 in a 55. Huh? No way, my speedometer never got over 60mph. So he runs my info, everything is legit. Comes back and lets me off with a warning. He tells me to get my speedo fixed cause it might get me in trouble. I tell him it just did! LOL. Told him to be safe out there.

So, I need to fix this. Apparently, my speedometer delay is even worse than I thought. Dammit.

hrcslam

Alright, I pulled the dash to see if I can find a part number. The only numbers on it are stamped on the base mounting foot ".S5 09 25" Google failed me. Only brought up Samsung stuff. Arg.

But, I did find one on LT1 Nation! Facebook Page, sweet! And I'm getting a replacement Tripometer too!

On a side note, my dash pad didn't crack..... yet. It'll probably crack going back in. LOL. I do garage the car though. I need to start soaking it in Armour All.

And since the dash is out, I'll be re-wiring my aftermarket stereo (damn alternator whine) and installing an A/C on-off switch (I don't need the A/C on in defrost mode GM! I live in Arizona, it's dry).

hrcslam

Ohh, this is not a stepper motor. It is a meter that has TWO inputs. One constant that pulls it to zero, and one variable that opposes it. This makes sense that the needle would jump during voltage drop. I'm wondering if over time the variable side looses it's strength due to varying voltages and the constant side becomes just a tad bit stronger causing the delay (and/or low oil pressure readings too).

hrcslam

The speedometer is still delayed. I replaced the meter (motor?!), still lags. I can't seem to figure it out. The only thing left is a possible load on the speedometer signal from the currently inop cruise control module. I've already replaced the VSS, the alternator, the pulleys, battery, and speedometer needle motor. I'll be disconnecting the Cruise Control Module next time I take her out and see if that helps. Ugh.

hrcslam

I did disconnect the cruise control. I did a few 3rd gear pulls to redline?? (6900 on the Tach, but I didn't hit the limiter) and got the speedometer to 110 every time. But, the engine is acting weird now...... of course. At about 5500 rpm there's a noticeable hiccup, then it feels like valve float or something. It still pulls, but not as hard as it used too. I'm thinking with the new dual valve springs and the stock (176K miles now) lifters, they are collapsing at high rpm due to wear. I have new lifters (LS7) sitting in the garage, but wont have time to replace them for another week.

But, I did test out this theory.... kind of, I think. LOL

I did a third gear pull to 110 and compared that to a 4th gear pull shifting to 4th at ~ 105 and 4th seemed to pull harder and it pasted 110 (I let off at about 114ish though).

It feels like the engine is just kind of hanging up a bit over 6000 rpms and it gets worse as the RPMs rise. At 6500ish, it's still pulling, but not like before. But, in 1st at 6500 rpm you don't even notice a difference in power. In 2nd it's kind of noticable. Then by 3rd that's when it's pronounced enough to note a possible issue.

Anyway, once I get the lifters replaced, I'll take it out again and see if the delay is actually gone with the cruise control disconnected. Right now it's doing the best it has ever done.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Put a garmin cheapo GPS on the dash and use that instead of the speedo for now. But grab a whole new cluster from a junkyard or Craigslist and give that a whirl.