Cammed1994Z28

Bought a new cam. Its a comp cam extreme energy. Duration at .050 is 236 Intake & 244 Exhaust. 624/.579 LSA 112. Its going on a 94 LT1 but my question is what valve springs to use on this. Lift i put should be with 1.6 rockers Im on a tight budget....

BALLSS

on your cam card it would note a minimum spring # to use

.624 intake lift...need a spring capable of that. 26918 "bee hive" max at .625 so those would not work

are you sure .624 lift is right with 1:6 RR?

tight budget and good springs....don't really go together

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

That cam and the word 'budget' don't go together. Did you go straight to the bottom of the page?

Cammed1994Z28

Bought it used from a friend. Dont have cam card. Ok forget the budget part i can get cash anyway. Friend had it on his lt1 with the lift at .624/579 1.6RR i will probably be using the stock 1.5s for now.

lt1-xjs

What does Comp recommend ?

Cammed1994Z28

I called them but they recommended the 26918 for the 1.5 but if i use 1.6 he recommended dual springs but didnt give me a part number

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Is this for a 350?

Cammed1994Z28

Its for a lt1 350.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Then return it. If you want a catalog Comp cam just do the 503, intake duration on it is 224degrees and you will likely still turn the motor 6500 which is enough for a 20 year old motor that from GM had rev limits in the 55-5800rpm range.

For a stock shortblock 350 that cam is 10 degrees too much duration, I don't care what Comp told you the rpm range was, they were wrong. They seem to post rpm ranges carried over from their gen 1 SBC stuff which is usually rated with dual plane intakes which pull the rpm range down a LOT compared to the LT1 intake. A lot of us spin cams under 230degrees on the intake all the way to 7000rpm.

Cammed1994Z28

Im going to use the cam considering i got it for like $100 bucks. I dont mind beefing up my bottem end. Just need advice. money is like available anyway

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

To even try and effectively use that cam you are looking at a full stroker build with ported heads, meaning you "saved" $150 on the wrong cam only to have to spend an extra $10K to use it by the time you do the whole engine, tranny axle, suspension, fuel system etc.

If this posts makes you want to argue then my advise is sell the car as soon as possible.

Cammed1994Z28

Can you help me find out what cam this really is? Guy wasnt so sure... -_-

superspirit

When looking those lobe profiles up in the master catalog, they turn out to be exactly what you posted in post #1. sell it or build a 383. that would be my recommendation.

BALLSS

OP

sell that cam and get your $100 back or chalk it up to a learning experience

while many people make off the shelf cam selections for a build with very good results....you should consider contacting a company like Elliott Portworks or Advanced Induction for a "matched" head & cam package for your specific needs (DD, street/strip or full race). Assuming your short block is in good order, you need "supporting" mods (higher stall TC if automatic car, lower rear gears, suspension and rear end upgrades, headers/exhaust, larger injectors, tune, etc)

Cammed1994Z28

I want to build a 383. But im doing a 355 My short block is being rebuilt by a local race engine shop. Flat top pistons. Arp everything. Still havent decided on rods and crank

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Why you need a crank if your doing a 355? Sounds like you need to slow your roll and do some research first!