throwing around build ideas
#1
throwing around build ideas
I'm thinking a s60 rear with the drive shaft they offer with it. A built trans with a 3200 stall. Some sticky tires, and a 200 shot right out of the hole. Do you think it would net me some 12 second passes ? Or am I thinking to fast. This will just be For fun until the engine gives. Then build it right for a 300 difrect import shot down the line. It's a bone stock 94 z right now
#6
TECH Fanatic
In good weather slicks, a stall, gears, and bolt ons should touch 12s. I personally can't get my car faster than a 13.4 but that's trying with a 6-speed car on hard DRs and blown rear shocks. I can't 60' to save my life.
#7
Well I will have roughly 7k or so saved up when winter hits. What do you guys suggest for the best bang per $? The trans is starting to slip already at 112k . It would probably hold out with a trans cooler though. I think it's just the 45-75 minute drive to the tracks . I can drive it around town and it won't slip. It also only slips at the top of first at wot
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#8
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: N. Berwick, Maine
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Trans cooler would be a good investment. A good set of headers, full exhaust, good tires and maybe a set of roller rockers will definately smarten the car up. You can easily hit the 12's without spending your whole budget. Is it a dedicated race car or a daily driver? Mines only raced, i stripped the a/c, egr, air bags, heating sys, bumper cushons, rear seats, sound deadening, air pump etc!
Id go bolt on then get a tune to reflect the changes and youll be suprised
Id go bolt on then get a tune to reflect the changes and youll be suprised
#9
TECH Fanatic
Well I will have roughly 7k or so saved up when winter hits. What do you guys suggest for the best bang per $? The trans is starting to slip already at 112k . It would probably hold out with a trans cooler though. I think it's just the 45-75 minute drive to the tracks . I can drive it around town and it won't slip. It also only slips at the top of first at wot
#11
TECH Fanatic
I would still start at the back of the car and work forward.
Suspension, Rearend, Slicks (or a good radial), better driveshaft, Built trans, Stall, full exhaust, fuel system, and THEN tear into the motor.
You have to make the car work with the upcoming power before you make that power. Nothing more embarrassing than having 500 HP and running mid 12's like I see a lot of F-body guys do.
Weight reduction will be your friend as well.
#12
Yeah it will for sure have more than 7k into it lol. The first 7 is his for this up coming winter. Would a h/c car be able to dip into the 10s with the proper suspension trans and rear ? Or would a forged bottom end and a power addebe needed?
#13
TECH Fanatic
H/C and a little spray should do it.
#15
TECH Fanatic
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
It depends on which parts, where you get them (new/used), and if you're doing the labor yourself. Yeah, you can hot rod your car to run 10s for 7k but it definitely won't be street friendly. That and you're probably going to blow something up sooner or later. You never said reliable 10 second car lol.
#20
12 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
Buy ramairs car and monkey with it.
A. Stock pistons + > 150 shot and boom pretty fast
2. Long tubes, 3200-3600 stall, CAI or ls1 lid, 3.42 rear from an m6, 1.6 NSA rockers and good valvesprings shifting at 6300, tune, and et streets or et street radials on stock wheels will give mid to low 12s.
D. Do the above, enjoy it this season, then over winter rebuild the stock bottom end with the rods resized for ARP bolts, stock replacement main and head bolts, new bearings, a hone and new rings, and an LE2 or AI200cc head cam package, plus a 9"/12bolt/s60 LCAs, torque arm and chromoly driveshaft, and you should hit 10s and be reliable to 7000rpm. If no 10s there, add 100 shot.
A. Stock pistons + > 150 shot and boom pretty fast
2. Long tubes, 3200-3600 stall, CAI or ls1 lid, 3.42 rear from an m6, 1.6 NSA rockers and good valvesprings shifting at 6300, tune, and et streets or et street radials on stock wheels will give mid to low 12s.
D. Do the above, enjoy it this season, then over winter rebuild the stock bottom end with the rods resized for ARP bolts, stock replacement main and head bolts, new bearings, a hone and new rings, and an LE2 or AI200cc head cam package, plus a 9"/12bolt/s60 LCAs, torque arm and chromoly driveshaft, and you should hit 10s and be reliable to 7000rpm. If no 10s there, add 100 shot.