95 lt1 build up
09-30-2014, 01:04 PM
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95 lt1 build up My 95 auto car just blew up. I am looking at going to a complete forged 383. Having the heads ported. Bigger throttle body. And bigger cam, roller rockers etc.
Car already has:
Msd 6 box
Pacesetter long tubes flow master 3 inch exhaust.
Stall converter and shift kit.
Moroso cai
I also would like to spray the car in the near future. I have a local place that is going to dyno tune it. I also want to eliminate power steering and A/C. Anyone know a good way to mount alternator?
Any help would be much appreciated thanks
Car already has:
Msd 6 box
Pacesetter long tubes flow master 3 inch exhaust.
Stall converter and shift kit.
Moroso cai
I also would like to spray the car in the near future. I have a local place that is going to dyno tune it. I also want to eliminate power steering and A/C. Anyone know a good way to mount alternator?
Any help would be much appreciated thanks
Last edited by Winnertrucks00; 09-30-2014 at 01:16 PM.
09-30-2014, 01:19 PM
#2
You sound like me from 4 years ago...
A healthy H/C/I 383 with nitrous would be making upwards of 700hp; do you have the budget to upgrade the rear end and trans as well to go along with this beast of an engine (another 5-6K on top of the 5-8K you'll spend on the engine? I'd first come up with a HP or ET goal, then do A LOT of research to come up with a plan of reaching the goal....you may find it's cheaper (and wiser for future upgrades) to go LS to make the magic number. Take whatever number you are thinking for this project and double it! Best of luck!
It would be much cheaper for you to just buy RamairTA's 10 sec car....
A healthy H/C/I 383 with nitrous would be making upwards of 700hp; do you have the budget to upgrade the rear end and trans as well to go along with this beast of an engine (another 5-6K on top of the 5-8K you'll spend on the engine? I'd first come up with a HP or ET goal, then do A LOT of research to come up with a plan of reaching the goal....you may find it's cheaper (and wiser for future upgrades) to go LS to make the magic number. Take whatever number you are thinking for this project and double it! Best of luck!It would be much cheaper for you to just buy RamairTA's 10 sec car....
09-30-2014, 03:43 PM
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Look on ebay for the alternator relocation bracket. a guy bough one and brought it into the shop a few years ago to put on his car, It worked good. Whats your ideas on the build?
10-01-2014, 07:41 AM
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From what I have found the rotating assembly is about $1800, heads will be about $500 to get done, valve train will be about $600-700, tune is 300, injectors are like $400 I think (pretty sure that was 30lb not sure if that's what I need or not) that's all I have really gotten so far.
10-01-2014, 08:46 AM
#5
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From what I have found the rotating assembly is about $1800, heads will be about $500 to get done, valve train will be about $600-700, tune is 300, injectors are like $400 I think (pretty sure that was 30lb not sure if that's what I need or not) that's all I have really gotten so far.
What rotating assembly are you looking at? If it has a cast crank DO NOT buy it. Most likely has other crap parts in that kit. If you are planning for spray, that crank will not take that for very long. You need to realize that building a motor that is actually worth a crap costs money, and that means spending it on GOOD parts if you don't want to do it again soon.
Who is doing heads for $500? They can't be any good. If I was you, I would build a nice 355 with forged pistons, stock rods with ARP bolts or maybe a forged rod, and stock crank (yes its pretty damn strong) and spend money on a nice set of ported stock heads since that's where your power is at anyway. Just building a 383 doesn't make power. LOTS of guys come on here asking the same thing, with the same dreams but get dissapointed when it only makes 360 HP and still runs 13s. At least you came here first before spending money but listen to what we have to say, it will lead you in the right direction.
The old saying...
Cheap, Fast, Reliable....Pick two.
10-01-2014, 09:18 AM
#6
If you are planning on nitrous, you really don't need the extra 20-30 Lb/ft TQ a 383 offers unless it's a max effort build. Nitrous will make all the torque you want with stock cubes, especially with good ported heads and a cam. The HP difference is actually pretty small for a 355 vs 383...the stroker crank mainly just makes the low end nice and stout for daily driver duty with a bigger cam. The prices you quote indicates more research is needed! Don't let your local Billy Joe Bob port your LT1 heads; probably do more harm than good! Get some heads for a reputable porter.
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LOL...you're not answering any questions/concerns brought up in the thread, I can lookup parts on the internets too! Best of luck with the 383 build! 
10-01-2014, 03:37 PM
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If you want to build a stroker go for it. That crank IMO is a good crank, Exept that part number is for a 2 piece rear main seal. You need one for a 1 piece rear main seal. I'd bump the compression up to 12ish to one. Id figure a flat top and see what it come out to. ID also go with a 6 inch rod. My stroker is a 5.7. not sure if there is much diffrance but the pistion will be lighter.
10-01-2014, 03:48 PM
#11
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OP do A LOT of research on this subject here, it comes up multiple times a week. Knowledge is power and knowing what the hell you're doing is way better than slapping random parts together to form a boat anchor. There's dozens of wrong ways to build a 383, and a lot of people have done it and are obviously dissappointed with the results. You don't want to be the guy that tells everyone you have a 383 that only makes cam only LT1 power.
10-02-2014, 05:53 AM
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So you guys are saying that I will be better off just building the 355 with about 12:1 compression? How street able will the compression be?? I assume that will require 93 octane? What about a cam?
10-02-2014, 08:30 AM
#13
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For everything else....
Buy and read the ever living **** out of this book. This will help you understand how to build an LT1 and how everything works. You need to understand that building a good motor takes work and knowledge. You have to have the patience to research and learn BEFORE you dive in and start buying parts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Books-1-557-883939-Book-How-to-Rebuild-Small-Block-Chevy-LT1-LT4-Engines-/310923669892?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item48647eb184&vxp=mtr
For your heads and cam, go here or call and they will set you up with whatever you are after.
http://www.advancedinduction.com/LTX...Kits.php#LT190