Jucas97

Stock LT1, currently I swapped the stock 3.23 gear out for a 3.42 gear, car is an auto, does good but I want more. I rarely travel on the highway. I feel like 4.10 would be to much for a stock engine. 3.73 maybe? Or just stick with the 3.42 that I have already swapped too. I plan on swapping the Heads, Cam, torque converter and intake one of these days. Saving my cash up currently.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

It greatly depends on what heads/cam/tire combo you go with. Most auto owners go with 3.73's.
A good reference www.f-body.org/gears

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

To me, making such a small change from 3.42 to 3.73 isn't worth it. From experience with a couple of F-bodies in my family, I think 3.42's are the ideal road gear for a stock or very mild cam/heads setup in an A4 car. If track performance is your priority, go 4.10's.
Moderate to wild H/C cars definitely like 3.73's and 4.10's to best utilize the powerband in all around use.

I say stick with your 3.42's for now. Wait until you actually do a heads/cam change to decide on a potential gear swap.
If you want more performance for now, put your money toward a nice tight 3600 converter.

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

A buddy had 4.10's in a auto lt car. That car shot outta the hole like a rocket. You're gonna have to figure out what your next move/goal is to determine your gear change.

87gnx

iTrader: (3)

4k stall (good brand from one of our beloved sponsors ) $.02

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Maybe when he changes cams. 4k will suck with the stock cam.

scotty2000ss

iTrader: (2)

I'd wait to swap the gears till you do the mods, if you plan on running the car at the track. Reason being is you wanna be at peak hp when you trap.

Jucas97

If all goes well my setup should consist of these mods (keep in mind some I already have)

Moroso/trick flow CAI
Holley Twin Throttle body
Holley stealth ram intake
NX 150 shot
Dart PRO1 heads
Pacesetter long tubes
2 cutouts one for each header
Lunati voodoo 294/304 cam
SS4000 stall converter
4.10 gears
Weld Draglites
M/T radials
And lastly a good tune.
I will port the intake as well as plumb it for a 150 shot of NX.
This car is going to be built specifically for the bracket racing in the 1/8th mile. It's my DD but I rarely go highway and don't have to travel far for work. Sound like a good set up? I know I'll have to mod a little for the stealth ram intake to fit.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

my $0.02

Moroso/trick flow CAI - Fine
Holley Twin Throttle body - Not needed save your money
Holley stealth ram intake - Complete waste of money
NX 150 shot - fine
Dart PRO1 heads - Would not run unless ported, as cast they will cost as much and not flow as much as LE or AI heads
Pacesetter long tubes - Good
2 cutouts one for each header - waste, either do an X pipe to some bullets, or throw a single cutout in the I pipe, save the extra $200
Lunati voodoo 294/304 cam - If you mean the 294/302, that is a HUGE cam, WAYYYYY too big for stock 350.
Hydraulic Roller Cam. Serious street and bracket race cam. Needs 10.5:1 compression. Makes unequalled power above 3500 RPM. Works well with moderate amounts of nitrous or small supercharger.
Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 294/302
Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 243/251
Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .560/.565
LSA/ICL: 110/106
Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
RPM Range: 2800-6800

That cam would be a DOG since you could not spin the bottom end high enough to make any useable power. Look more in the 22x/23x range.

SS4000 stall converter - sure
4.10 gears - calculate out that you want to be at the top of 3rd when you cross the traps, pick gears that way.
Weld Draglites - ok
M/T radials - ok
And lastly a good tune. - definitely.
I will port the intake as well as plumb it for a 150 shot of NX.- no need for direct port under 200 shot, get a plate on stock intake.

Jucas97

Okay sounds good. Just looking to get a low 6 sec 1/8th mile car. How would the CC503 be, paired with the Edelbrock intake.

93M6Formula

You don't need the Edelbrock intake either, No gains to be had. I can't comment on the CC503 but it's pretty well known it does well on a stock LT1.

95TAVERT

I have a 4.10 rear end out of a 95 T/A and a 2800 stall if interested? I had the 4.10 and the stall on a stock LT1 with long tube headers, Moroso air intake and the 4 upgrades made a big difference over stock. 4.10 with overdrive was a non issue.

Jucas97

How much for the 4.10? I think I have a 2500 holeshot converter at the top of my shop.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't waste your time installing that converter, no matter what kind of "deal" you get on it. At minimum, I would go with a 9.5" Street Edge. A 3000-3200 stall would work great with those 4.10's and mild cam.
Or keep your eyes open for a used Yank, Vig, or Circle-D.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

^^^agree. It's amazing that you put a name like 'holeshot' and people think it would be great. Should be renamed to 'holeshit'. The OEM is about 1800. I had a TCI 2800 in for a while,did nothing for the 1/4. You've really should go about double the OEM rating of 1800. Now got a Yank SS3600.

95TAVERT

They are installed in the stock rear end you want the whole thing or just gears? I would sell the whole think for 200. But the frt would be a pain. I am in southern IL.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Stall ratings are what the convertor would/should 'flash' to.

For a typical LT1 HP figures at rear wheels:
OEM 1800 100hp
2500 145hp
3000 175hp
3600 215hp
the higher the stall,the the more immediate you can jump into the higher powerband of the engine.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Instead of starting at 1800 where high torque application causes a sort of engagement to the drivetrain and having to climb/accelerate thru all that low horsepower part of the curve, a 'higher' stall will start more into the 'meatier' part of the curve. You're not wasting time(1/4 mile ET) climbing thru it. And that applies to every gear.

Jucas97

just the gears, i am a poor young man...lol.

Jucas97

Yeah i know its pretty bad, i traded a set off heads for it that i had no interest in back when i was 15.