LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

help me guide him correctly

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Old 12-11-2014, 09:15 AM
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You get to say naaaaaaaaaaaaaawwwwwwwwwzzzzzzzz
Old 12-11-2014, 09:37 AM
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you'll blow yourself to pieces!

Old 12-11-2014, 10:50 AM
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NAWZZZZZZZZZZZZZ




Originally Posted by Ed Wright
Would be if you failed to include the NHRA required padding.
I can't tell if you are serious here? Could you go into detail please.
Old 12-11-2014, 11:52 AM
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He doesnt want a turbo, or a supercharger. He wants nitrous. Just give him a good build for mid to high 9s
Old 12-11-2014, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by WCT13
We just want to know a good build to get him in the mid to high 9s. Crank to the intake.

He can handle the car, hes been around them his whole life, but it was mustangs not lt1s.

Dont worry about the cost, this is a long term project.

He just wants a list of parts to build a good reliable nitrous car.
Honestly the internet is not the place to ask that. Lots of knowledgeable people here, but a parts list off a forum is no way to build a motor. Consult a reputable engine shop in your area for what they like to use. Diamond, JE and the likes for a nice piston, and Callies/Compstar for the rotating assembly would be my request.

That being said.. high 9s on nitrous is a pretty easily attainable goal. 150 to 200 shot would be all you need with a nice heads cam 383. There is very little cost difference between a 383 and 355 if you are building the bottom end.You can run that small of a shot through a plate. A single plane intake like the Victor EFI would work well. That is all you should need to meet that goal.

If faster/more nitrous is in the plans a direct port setup would be the way to go now rather than later. I believe Nitrous Outlet does direct port setups on single planes.

LE or AI for the cam and intake/head work. I suggest the Trickflow heads from either... really nice heads with lots of meat on them.
Old 12-11-2014, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by PA94Z
Honestly the internet is not the place to ask that. Lots of knowledgeable people here, but a parts list off a forum is no way to build a motor. Consult a reputable engine shop in your area for what they like to use. Diamond, JE and the likes for a nice piston, and Callies/Compstar for the rotating assembly would be my request.

That being said.. high 9s on nitrous is a pretty easily attainable goal. 150 to 200 shot would be all you need with a nice heads cam 383. There is very little cost difference between a 383 and 355 if you are building the bottom end.You can run that small of a shot through a plate. A single plane intake like the Victor EFI would work well. That is all you should need to meet that goal.

If faster/more nitrous is in the plans a direct port setup would be the way to go now rather than later. I believe Nitrous Outlet does direct port setups on single planes.

LE or AI for the cam and intake/head work. I suggest the Trickflow heads from either... really nice heads with lots of meat on them.
I disagree on asking a machine shop to decide the build for him, we all know how most shops are with LT1s, they think they're working with a GEN I SBC and tend to make poor decisions, best to go in with our advice and just have the shop do machining and assembly only. I don't see a problem with doing a copy of someones build on here. Not like he is doing something noones ever done so there are plenty of good examples here.

But I do agree, a WELL built 383 with a 200 plate kit should be damn close to 9's BUT he better have that suspension in line if he wants to get that close. And as someone said before, don't forget about the addition items needed to run that at the track legally.
Old 12-11-2014, 07:42 PM
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Unless the specific shop you plan on using has built a few fast LT1s, I would steer clear.

Last edited by Catmaigne; 12-23-2014 at 02:45 AM.
Old 12-11-2014, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
.../hijack.....NHRA padding will not do a damn thing to save your skull from homogenizing your brain without a helmet on.

/hijack
That's true if he doesn't wear his safety harness...
Old 12-11-2014, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 93M6Formula
I disagree on asking a machine shop to decide the build for him, we all know how most shops are with LT1s, they think they're working with a GEN I SBC and tend to make poor decisions, best to go in with our advice and just have the shop do machining and assembly only. I don't see a problem with doing a copy of someones build on here. Not like he is doing something noones ever done so there are plenty of good examples here.

But I do agree, a WELL built 383 with a 200 plate kit should be damn close to 9's BUT he better have that suspension in line if he wants to get that close. And as someone said before, don't forget about the addition items needed to run that at the track legally.
A LT1 is a SBC with reverse flow cooling and a fancy distributor. Nothing more...there are minor differences like slightly thinner rings when stock. In this case a reliable ring/piston combo is going to take priority. He could run .043, .043, 3 mm (thinner than Gen 1 and Gen 2 stock rings) but that is nothing I wouldn't put in any SBC.

When you get into building a 700 HP nitrous motor more research into a reputable engine shop, and less research into a web forum parts list is my recommendation. Leave the top end to LE or AI whichever is preferred..

Last edited by PA94Z; 12-12-2014 at 12:00 AM.
Old 12-12-2014, 09:02 AM
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The rollbar thing is assuming one does not wear the 5-point set super tight on the street. If someone wears the 5-point on the street it is likely loose enough to hit the rollbar.
Far as an engine shop yes an LT1 is very very similar to a gen 1 but details like wanting a point and a half to two points more compression are huge in how well the engine actually works as opposed to just functioning.
Old 12-12-2014, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by NewOrleansLT1
That's true if he doesn't wear his safety harness...
A properly cinched down body in a correct harness/seat, will still move ~2inches... make the main hoop close enough and you are def contacting it pending the hit on the car.

Either way, safety is lame right?
Old 12-12-2014, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 93M6Formula
they think they're working with a GEN I SBC and tend to make poor decisions
Only constant discrepancy I've seen is the static compression issue. As long as the individual makes certain of what CR they want to run, everything else is the same as a traditional SBC. Even having a machine shop just do the block would also influence what CR will be ran, so...
Old 12-13-2014, 05:52 AM
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There are like 5 posts here that are actually useful. All we wanted to know was a decent build to follow.

He will handle the suspension and all that when he gets the motor done. This is a long term project. Hes not going to build the motor and take over the world. Its probably going to take a year or two to build the motor atleast.
Old 12-13-2014, 06:26 AM
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A 400 shot is an 8 second build if done well. It is a clueless ricer plan. So then we hear maybe high 9s which is still a LOT more car than someone so ignorant can accomplish or handle.

Often when someone has clueless ricer ideas it is more important to answer the question ions they should have asked rather than the ones they did ask.

The journey from having a stock f-body to building, knowing how to drive and maintained a high 9 second c at is not a 2-3 year journey, there is a lot of time, money to be spent and a lot of experience and knowledge to be gained along the way.
Few years ago a friend of a friend came back from the middle east with a boat load of cash and slapped together a 9 second big block nitrous old school musclecar, one day at the test and tune we actually lined up side by side and during our burn outs he lost control and hammered the wall, during the burnout. Car was spooled and one side hooked better, luckily it went towards the wall not the tree.

Most guys who are newbs and talk such stupidity as 400 hp worth of nitrous have no idea you can add 200hp with boltons, heads, and cam and that that much and more is needed before you even look at stroker or anything more than about a 150shot.
Then for a 400shot you are looking at thousands in converted single plane and plumbing it.

You asked a stupid question and got useful answers instead of matching ones.
Old 12-13-2014, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
A 400 shot is an 8 second build if done well. It is a clueless ricer plan. So then we hear maybe high 9s which is still a LOT more car than someone so ignorant can accomplish or handle.

Often when someone has clueless ricer ideas it is more important to answer the question ions they should have asked rather than the ones they did ask.

The journey from having a stock f-body to building, knowing how to drive and maintained a high 9 second c at is not a 2-3 year journey, there is a lot of time, money to be spent and a lot of experience and knowledge to be gained along the way.
Few years ago a friend of a friend came back from the middle east with a boat load of cash and slapped together a 9 second big block nitrous old school musclecar, one day at the test and tune we actually lined up side by side and during our burn outs he lost control and hammered the wall, during the burnout. Car was spooled and one side hooked better, luckily it went towards the wall not the tree.

Most guys who are newbs and talk such stupidity as 400 hp worth of nitrous have no idea you can add 200hp with boltons, heads, and cam and that that much and more is needed before you even look at stroker or anything more than about a 150shot.
Then for a 400shot you are looking at thousands in converted single plane and plumbing it.

You asked a stupid question and got useful answers instead of matching ones.
I agree mostly.. except for the part about basically taking baby steps. If a grown man wants a 9 second car for their first drag car.. that is their right.
Old 12-13-2014, 09:18 AM
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If he is doing it over a year or so, than . may I ask why not a sprayed truck motor?
If I were after building a lt I would first look on CL... you won't find or be able to build another lt4 car for this price http://madison.craigslist.org/cto/4784394234.html
Just sayin
Old 12-13-2014, 10:54 AM
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I think ill just tell him hes too stupid to build a nitrous LTx camaro that runs 10's or better, that hes just a ricer that watched too much fast and the furious and that he needs a full tube chassis and cage, a fabbed rear end, monster powerglide, the best suspension money can buy, and extra thick roll bar padding to protect his head when he drives his pro mod on the street.

His uncles have some badass cars, in this video, the grey turbo hatch, and the red n2o notch belong to them


our friend has a goal, of 10's or better 1/4 mile, let him worry aboutthe car and its suspension and trans, ALL were asking is, how much nitrous would it take for a forged 383 with good heads/cam/intake to run 10's, assuming the car is where it needs to be to do so. Dont avoid the question and start rambling on about a cage and roll bar padding, and how he can do the same with boost or how he can buy this persons motor for this price yadayada and what not, dont care, our friend wants to run nitrous, not changing his mind on that, we tried. ive personally never had a nitrous car, nor how much to spray to reach a goal. 150 shot? 200 shot? its that easy

fellas we were ALL there at one point, not knowing **** about anything, how did we learn? by asking questions, by reading, by hands on experience, dont assume that everyone around you is and ignorant ricer thats need nos harry, and needs it by tonight./
Old 12-13-2014, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by ws6turbo
If he is doing it over a year or so, than . may I ask why not a sprayed truck motor?
If I were after building a lt I would first look on CL... you won't find or be able to build another lt4 car for this price http://madison.craigslist.org/cto/4784394234.html
Just sayin
he doesnt want to buy a car already built, though i wish he would, and i dont think he has 7500$ laying around either (hence the long term plan), he wants to do it all himself over time, a true learning DIY project, with the help of friends and family and a machine shop for the **** you cant do at home.
Old 12-13-2014, 11:05 AM
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High 10s can be done NA with a reasonably street able stroker. Ported stock castings for heads and intake, hydraulic cam, stud mounted rockers..........
Old 12-13-2014, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
High 10s can be done NA with a reasonably street able stroker. Ported stock castings for heads and intake, hydraulic cam, stud mounted rockers..........
ive been telling the dude that over and over, but he is dead set on spraying some kind of nitrous, no way in the world is his mind being changed fro mthat

his exact setup will consist, of a forged 383 4 bolt block, either well worked stock heads and intake, or aftermarket heads, and worked stock intake, a nitrous cam, and a strong valvetrain, probably a TH400 trans and a 3500 converter, and whatever he does with the rear end itll have 3.73's or 4.10s

who knows, onece he really starts and get some parts rolling in he may change his mind after he drive it NA after its tuned up right.


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