Notplayn

Got a 94 Formula Firehawk LT1 car. Replaced Opti and dr side wires and plugs. Wondering best approach to do pass side. I've removed alt and loosened pwr steering pump. Should I remove steering pump all the way and maybe even acc bracket or take out motor mount bolt and jack up pass side motor? Any recommendations are welcomed, tks.

Huntr1117

iTrader: (18)

It's been a long time since I've done spark plugs on my car before headers, but I remember that I would have to get some from the top and some from underneath the car. Either way its a pain. Slp makes a stubby spark plug socket that you can use a boxed or open ended wrench on. From what I've read they are supposed to help a lot. You can probably make your own if you want. I think you can still get them directly through Slp. I know they still sell them through summit.

Birdracing

On my 94 Z28, i change the plugs from underneath the car except the plug behind the alternator. I bought a shorter spark plug socket, and i to have to use a box end rench to remove some of the plugs. I remove the alternator but i don't touch the power steering pump. Don't know if the Firebird's are different.

NewOrleansLT1

The power steering might have to be loosened to change the wires on the passenger side

SexyTransAm

iTrader: (6)

last time i changed plugs with a stock mani and y pipe i dropped the starter and y pipe. u might be able to get to em by just removing the starter but i got fat arms.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately, on a car that old, you have to be really careful about breaking rusted studs on the manifolds. Having said that, the couple of times I've changed the plugs on my '96 Z/28, I dropped the Y-pipe, and did all the plugs from the bottom.


IF the retaining nuts on your manifolds can be easily removed, dropping the Y-pipe should take 15 minutes, and after that, plugs are a breeze, except for the #2 plug. With respect to the wires, yes, unbolt the p/s pump and let it hang forward, so you can get the wires in/out of the wire loom, that the engineers ""wisely" stuck directly behind it.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

How to replace spark plugs on engine with stock manifolds? Start by installing LT headers for better plug access.

96LT1Z

Well, personally my experience with changing plugs before headers was nothing but a nightmare. Took about 7 hours, busted knuckles, and a lot cussing. lol
BUT it can be done. Pry want a buddy to help you out. Definitely will not be fun. Just have to get creative. Good luck lol

Cajun ELESS-ONE

i did all but one from under the car. put the socket on the plug then the wrench on the socket if there isnt alot of room. some swivels will help. also having the car on ramps helped. and use anti seize on the new plugs. took me about 2.5 hours for all of them.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

What you've done is about the extent needed to route plug wires. It is frustrating for sure. Best thing to do is stick with nothing more than 8mm wires since space is an issue. Use stock routing and clamps. All plug wires on passenger side can be done from up top. If the alternator bracket is present for the alternator-to-manifold bolt, get rid of it. It's not needed. That will give you more space. I also just used a normal plug socket with an open end wrench to get #2. May have used it for others. Just don't remember.

VoyagerCamaro

Just got done doing plugs and wires on my z28, i had to take the alternator off, and used a 3/8th drive ratchet, it took a little more to brake the plugs loose, do them from the top. Lay down stomach down in your engine bay, and feel around. My best tip is do it when you have time and wear thick gloves while breaking the plugs loose or you'll have some busted knuckles. The stock wire routing location is what made it hard for me... i did this at the time that i had stock manifolds. i now have headers and plan on going with the OTVC method here soon.

ACE1252

Lots of good advice in this thread. I'll echo much of it. I also have skinny arms, so that does help to some extent

Back when I was stock, I would take off the alternator and drop the y-pipe. As mentioned above, if everything has been on the car for a while be prepared to maybe snap an exhaust stud(I did a time or two). Soak the exhaust nuts/bolts with penetrating lube(kroil or the like..). Be careful not to round off a nut or bolt. That is a terrible pain. Have a good position where you can keep the socket on the nut or bolt(don't let it slip off as that can round them...especially rusty ones). Always use a 6 point socket if possible.

Driver's side was not too bad at all.

For the passenger's side, some people have trouble with #8, but I never did. #2 was the b***h. I think I ended up getting it from the top. A socket with an insert to hold the plug helped some(craftsman spark plug socket). It's just a tough spot with the AC in the way.

Have several size extensions and lots of patience. Use anti-seize on the plugs and take your time not to cross thread anything.

1995_maro_z

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure if the firebirds are the same as the camaros, but i just did the plugs about a month ago on my car that still has stock manifolds (for now ). I have skinny arms, but i was able to get all of the passenger side plugs from the top without removing anything. It took FOREVER, but it can be done. The one that gave me the most trouble was the front one on that side. The way that the other three plugs' wires were ran made getting a socket on that front plug very difficult. If your car is like my 1994 z28, you'll have to remove the wires from plugs 4 and 6 (making sure to number them just in case). Unplugging those wires gave me just enough room to get one of those weird T-handled spark plug socket things on it and get it out.

kyoytey1693

iTrader: (7)

I used that short slp socket and a ratchet wrench from under the car.

mab6680

iTrader: (1)

i pulled the motor mount bolt anf jacked the motor up as far as it would go and did most of them from the top.