1994 LT1 Longtube Header Question
01-25-2015, 01:07 PM
#1
1994 LT1 Longtube Header Question I am strongly considering purchasing the stainless longtubes that Texas speed has for the LT1. I have a few questions about what all will need done to ensure that my car retains reliability with the install. Therefore, I will begin by saying that my car is my daily driver. Also, I will mention that I don't have emissions testing where I live 
. I know that the headers do not have emissions fittings so I will need the egr block off plate for the back of the intake manifold. Since my car is a single cat car i won't need O2 sims and I'll just need extension for the plugs on the front o2's. I also plan on getting the unbalanced engineering rag joint eliminator and changing the plugs and wires before the headers go in. I also plan on using the ory that Texas speed is offering with it. Now to my questions lol. Will I need a tune after the install? Will deleting the EGR and AIR increase or decrease mpg? Will it have any effect on driveability or pros or cons? What all will need welded (as far as the y pipe to the headers and the y pipe to the stock catback)? Will these headers be a bad idea for a daily driver? I don't mind noise at all, not even a little lol but I don't want ANY driveability issues. Also, if anyone Has pictures or videos from the top or bottom of these or a set of pacesetters installed, I'd love to see them. Any and all input is greatly appreciated!
edit: Also does anyone have any recommendations on hardware? (Gaskets, header bolts, exhaust calmps, anything else i may bae leaving out?)
edit2: The car is not lowered, and I plan to stay at stock height.
. I know that the headers do not have emissions fittings so I will need the egr block off plate for the back of the intake manifold. Since my car is a single cat car i won't need O2 sims and I'll just need extension for the plugs on the front o2's. I also plan on getting the unbalanced engineering rag joint eliminator and changing the plugs and wires before the headers go in. I also plan on using the ory that Texas speed is offering with it. Now to my questions lol. Will I need a tune after the install? Will deleting the EGR and AIR increase or decrease mpg? Will it have any effect on driveability or pros or cons? What all will need welded (as far as the y pipe to the headers and the y pipe to the stock catback)? Will these headers be a bad idea for a daily driver? I don't mind noise at all, not even a little lol but I don't want ANY driveability issues. Also, if anyone Has pictures or videos from the top or bottom of these or a set of pacesetters installed, I'd love to see them. Any and all input is greatly appreciated!edit: Also does anyone have any recommendations on hardware? (Gaskets, header bolts, exhaust calmps, anything else i may bae leaving out?)
edit2: The car is not lowered, and I plan to stay at stock height.
Last edited by 1995_maro_z; 01-25-2015 at 03:22 PM.
01-25-2015, 01:38 PM
#2
Teching In
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Dont weld anything. You'll hate yourself later if you do.
only problem as far as drivibility will be your loss of ground clearance.
Tuning is highly recommended. kind of halfassing it if you dont. Plus if your still on the stock tune youll probably gain some mpg as well as power.
you wont notice the emissions crap is gone. Except that it's not there when you pop the hood.
I had to grind down the bolts on the rag joint eliminator to prevent them from hitting my kooks when I turned the wheel.
only problem as far as drivibility will be your loss of ground clearance.
Tuning is highly recommended. kind of halfassing it if you dont. Plus if your still on the stock tune youll probably gain some mpg as well as power.
you wont notice the emissions crap is gone. Except that it's not there when you pop the hood.
I had to grind down the bolts on the rag joint eliminator to prevent them from hitting my kooks when I turned the wheel.
01-25-2015, 03:06 PM
#3
Dont weld anything. You'll hate yourself later if you do.
only problem as far as drivibility will be your loss of ground clearance.
Tuning is highly recommended. kind of halfassing it if you dont. Plus if your still on the stock tune youll probably gain some mpg as well as power.
you wont notice the emissions crap is gone. Except that it's not there when you pop the hood.
I had to grind down the bolts on the rag joint eliminator to prevent them from hitting my kooks when I turned the wheel.
only problem as far as drivibility will be your loss of ground clearance.
Tuning is highly recommended. kind of halfassing it if you dont. Plus if your still on the stock tune youll probably gain some mpg as well as power.
you wont notice the emissions crap is gone. Except that it's not there when you pop the hood.
I had to grind down the bolts on the rag joint eliminator to prevent them from hitting my kooks when I turned the wheel.
01-25-2015, 03:17 PM
#4
You want to use the band clamps where possible. IDK what your headers call for.Ask Texas speed,they probably sell them. Some have flanges. For the tune on it, I would just do mail order. it isn't necessary, but will help for max power. Your gas mileage should go up 1-2 MPGs,if you can keep your foot out of it. 
01-25-2015, 03:19 PM
#5
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I have a 1996 WS6 M6 and I installed KOOKS headers with a y-pipe and a GMMG cat back about 2 years ago. HOWEVER, I live in Jersey so I went with a catted y-pipe and I kept all of the emissions stuff hooked up, and I did not do a tune (although I probably will this year). I also went with ARP bolts. My car is at stock ride height and I have not had any issues rubbing. The car is LOUD, however if I throw it in 6th it cruises nicely, but if I was using the car as a daily driver and had an automatic then I would probably have installed a quieter cat back. I don't drive my cars from about November-March or April, but if I lived down south I would not hesitate to drive my car daily at all. I have had zero driveability issues.
I hope this helps a bit. You are going with a setup from a different company, will not be installing a cat or any of the other emissions stuff, and I'm not sure if you have lowering springs or not. So all of that could very well make your experience different than mine.
I hope this helps a bit. You are going with a setup from a different company, will not be installing a cat or any of the other emissions stuff, and I'm not sure if you have lowering springs or not. So all of that could very well make your experience different than mine.
01-25-2015, 03:25 PM
#6
You want to use the band clamps where possible. IDK what your headers call for.Ask Texas speed,they probably sell them. Some have flanges. For the tune on it, I would just do mail order. it isn't necessary, but will help for max power. Your gas mileage should go up 1-2 MPGs,if you can keep your foot out of it.
Last edited by 1995_maro_z; 01-25-2015 at 03:33 PM.
01-25-2015, 03:27 PM
#7
I have a 1996 WS6 M6 and I installed KOOKS headers with a y-pipe and a GMMG cat back about 2 years ago. HOWEVER, I live in Jersey so I went with a catted y-pipe and I kept all of the emissions stuff hooked up, and I did not do a tune (although I probably will this year). I also went with ARP bolts. My car is at stock ride height and I have not had any issues rubbing. The car is LOUD, however if I throw it in 6th it cruises nicely, but if I was using the car as a daily driver and had an automatic then I would probably have installed a quieter cat back. I don't drive my cars from about November-March or April, but if I lived down south I would not hesitate to drive my car daily at all. I have had zero driveability issues.
I hope this helps a bit. You are going with a setup from a different company, will not be installing a cat or any of the other emissions stuff, and I'm not sure if you have lowering springs or not. So all of that could very well make your experience different than mine.
I hope this helps a bit. You are going with a setup from a different company, will not be installing a cat or any of the other emissions stuff, and I'm not sure if you have lowering springs or not. So all of that could very well make your experience different than mine.
And my car isn't lowered. Trending Topics
01-26-2015, 11:57 AM
#8
Also, I'm changing my rear end to one with different gears in the next couple weeks. I know that I will have to get a tune so that my shift points are correct. If I go ahead and get a tune for shift points and have them do the tuning I'll need for the header install and emissions delete will my car run ok for a couple months while I'm waiting to actually do the headers? Basically, would it be ok to go ahead and tune for headers and an egr delet while the car has a factory manifolds and the egr still hooked up?
01-26-2015, 10:42 PM
#9
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I just commented again on your same post on LTxtech so be sure to check that out 
As far as the tuning goes I wouldn't be worried about it. The tables will definitely be off and the speedo will be off due to tuning for the new gears. Worst thing you will see is some decreased MPG but I can't see any real problems.
As far as the tuning goes I wouldn't be worried about it. The tables will definitely be off and the speedo will be off due to tuning for the new gears. Worst thing you will see is some decreased MPG but I can't see any real problems.
01-26-2015, 10:50 PM
#10
I was in the same boat you are when I first got the car.
I would definitely get those stainless LT's from texas speed. Get good gaskets. ARP 5/16 1" bolts. You ll love me for it i promise. A lot easier to get too.
As far as emissions, just block off the egr plates on the back of the intake. Dig out the damn air pump, and get rid of the evap crap.
When you install your new plugs and wires, ZIP TIES ARE YOU FRIEND, tuck them down and away so you do not have to worry about torching a wire. Been there done that.
Once installed definitely get some stainless band clamps for the header to the y.
Don't worry about a tune. A service engine light won't bother anyone.
Have fun with the open y for a while, just sounds pissed off!
I would definitely get those stainless LT's from texas speed. Get good gaskets. ARP 5/16 1" bolts. You ll love me for it i promise. A lot easier to get too.
As far as emissions, just block off the egr plates on the back of the intake. Dig out the damn air pump, and get rid of the evap crap.
When you install your new plugs and wires, ZIP TIES ARE YOU FRIEND, tuck them down and away so you do not have to worry about torching a wire. Been there done that.
Once installed definitely get some stainless band clamps for the header to the y.
Don't worry about a tune. A service engine light won't bother anyone.
Have fun with the open y for a while, just sounds pissed off!
01-26-2015, 10:55 PM
#11
On The Tree
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^ I second that. Open Y is just gnarly, lots of gurgling and is Fing loud! Definitely get your exhaust stuff hooked back up but I think it's always worth it for an F-body owner to hear their car like that at least once in their life
01-26-2015, 10:58 PM
#12
But seriously enjoy it open y for awhile! WOT it just f'ing screams! So much badassery
01-27-2015, 06:05 PM
#13
Awesome, thanks for the replies! I'm definitely gonna go with the ARP bolts and i'll probably use felpro 1406 (I think thats the number?) gaskets. All of this talk of an open y pipe made me think of a question... would it be possible, a good idea, or bad idea, or what to put a cutout between the y pipe and the cat back?
01-27-2015, 07:10 PM
#14
Awesome, thanks for the replies! I'm definitely gonna go with the ARP bolts and i'll probably use felpro 1406 (I think thats the number?) gaskets. All of this talk of an open y pipe made me think of a question... would it be possible, a good idea, or bad idea, or what to put a cutout between the y pipe and the cat back?
No reason not too. When you want it to be loud, you're good to go. Then you want to be some what quiet again just cap it.
01-27-2015, 07:46 PM
#16
cutouts are great, especially with an e-cutout. I did without an e-cutout and settled for a standard wingnut one for years. Finally got one from badlands off ebay IIRC, wish I would've went this route sooner. No more crawling under the car to open/close and I can do it at the flip of the switch when I want to be discreet or make some noise.
01-27-2015, 11:12 PM
#19