Bastard LTx Build Thread - For real this time :) (NOW WITH MOAR PICZ)
04-20-2015, 03:15 PM
#61
Ahh just for the cam signal. EFI makes a billet cam sensor/oil drive combo. I didn't want to piece together everything and worry about annoying issues down the road like the reluctor being the wrong distance from the sensor or having to manually wire in different connectors. The EFI kit is a complete all-in-one setup that a lot of people have ran already and is easy to troubleshoot, complete conversion harnesses are available, and the price is not bad for all that you get.
I am working on a totally new engine on a stand and not pulling parts from the old one which was a 93, so if I pieced it together myself I'd still need to hunt down a hard to find 96-97 timing cover (then clean, paint, cover WP drive hole, and install new seals), a timing set that wont push the crank reluctor too far forward or backwards, bolts and hardware, a crank reluctor, etc - since I had to purchase everything anyway it wouldn't be much cheaper then just getting the complete kit that comes will all sensors, gaskets, and hardware.
My kit was only $775 since I called and they had an unlisted blem with a nick on the timing cover (under where the WP would be anyway so not even visible). It has everything but coils and harness - the billet cover, gaskets, seals, sensors, new hardware, timing chain, and modded timing chain sprockets.
I am working on a totally new engine on a stand and not pulling parts from the old one which was a 93, so if I pieced it together myself I'd still need to hunt down a hard to find 96-97 timing cover (then clean, paint, cover WP drive hole, and install new seals), a timing set that wont push the crank reluctor too far forward or backwards, bolts and hardware, a crank reluctor, etc - since I had to purchase everything anyway it wouldn't be much cheaper then just getting the complete kit that comes will all sensors, gaskets, and hardware.
My kit was only $775 since I called and they had an unlisted blem with a nick on the timing cover (under where the WP would be anyway so not even visible). It has everything but coils and harness - the billet cover, gaskets, seals, sensors, new hardware, timing chain, and modded timing chain sprockets.
04-22-2015, 02:50 PM
#63
Launching!
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Those quick connect to AN adapters from Russell are a tight fit on the hard line. A little Vaseline, and cleaned up lines help assembly. Looking good so far.. has the motor moved from the porch yet?
04-22-2015, 04:00 PM
#64
Picked up the trans and stall today...damn they are nice! The stall is crazy light, like ~24lbs. I think my 9.5" in the car now was 45+?!? The trans is way lighter too.
Last of my fittings came in too...for some reason everything but 2 adapters came in one box and those last two came in separate today. Still need a gate shifter(looking at the Kwik Shift), conversion harness, and carb hat...but I pretty much have everything to get the motor broken in on the dyno now
.Blew through my allotted budget pretty damn fast, but I was expecting to go a few hundred over anyway. Once I sell my stalled 700r4 it won't be too bad.
Pics of the trans+stall tonight when I get home or tomorrow.
04-28-2015, 11:49 AM
#65
Finally found a lid base, I have everything for the lid setup now minus the chris1313...which I will just worry about once everything is up and running.
Hoping to get it on an engine dyno in a month or so for break in, then install it w/ the trans for chassis dyno tuning. Don't really care what the RWHP will be but it will be interesting to see how much HP is lost between accessories, the PG, 5k unlocked stall, and rear end.
Once its dialed in on a dyno I will make my final decision for what rear end I will be running so I can get it down the track for some shakedown runs.
Hoping to get it on an engine dyno in a month or so for break in, then install it w/ the trans for chassis dyno tuning. Don't really care what the RWHP will be but it will be interesting to see how much HP is lost between accessories, the PG, 5k unlocked stall, and rear end.
Once its dialed in on a dyno I will make my final decision for what rear end I will be running so I can get it down the track for some shakedown runs.
04-30-2015, 08:59 PM
#72
I'd love to throw a stock style fiberglass hood on it to keep it stealthier, but I need the clearance for the 4150 TB and carb hat...
05-05-2015, 02:58 PM
#73
Yesterday I tried to turn the old setup on for ***** and giggles. Completely forgot it had no battery and TB was not attached (i was scrounging parts for the TA I had from it, oops!). No crank at all, no pump priming, nothing. Traced it back to the TDR under the glove box. Grounded the yellow wire to disable it and finally heard the fuel pump sputtering and struggling to prime. Air in the lines, gummy fuel, yada yada yada.
I tossed a bottle of fuel treatment in the gas tank and left it alone overnight. This morning I force primed it again a few times then changed the fuel filter before trying to start it - surprisingly it started on the second try...then immediately went to 2k rpm and wouldn't go down. Pulled and cleaned the nasty IAC, and replaced some vacuum caps that were cracked and now it idles rough as hell but at the right RPM. Stalls as soon as you try to give it gas though
. Probably the nasty brown gas in it LOL...guess it didn't like sitting for two years without being touched.
This was just for the hell of it - I'm not keeping any of the current stuff for the new build, but want to get it tuned up for if I decide to toss it in something else down the road. Almost forgot how much of a pain in the *** these engine bays are.
I tossed a bottle of fuel treatment in the gas tank and left it alone overnight. This morning I force primed it again a few times then changed the fuel filter before trying to start it - surprisingly it started on the second try...then immediately went to 2k rpm and wouldn't go down. Pulled and cleaned the nasty IAC, and replaced some vacuum caps that were cracked and now it idles rough as hell but at the right RPM. Stalls as soon as you try to give it gas though
. Probably the nasty brown gas in it LOL...guess it didn't like sitting for two years without being touched.This was just for the hell of it - I'm not keeping any of the current stuff for the new build, but want to get it tuned up for if I decide to toss it in something else down the road. Almost forgot how much of a pain in the *** these engine bays are.
05-05-2015, 09:58 PM
#74
That's awsome, I remeber the first time I started my car after it sat for 4 years, ran like complete crap till I added 5 gallons of 91 and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Sad I had to pull the driver header off and cut it apart thanks to sub par workman ship from LT1Boost.
05-08-2015, 09:25 PM
#77
Everything for the lid swap is in.
Going to drain the tank and put fresh gas in this weekend and install the lid setup on the old motor to try to get it running decent. Plan is to be able to putt around with it while I finish the new motor to make sure their aren't any glaring issues from sitting on stuff I plan to keep like the fuel pump(only ~5k miles on the Racetronix 255 kit), headlights, wipers, etc.
Going to drain the tank and put fresh gas in this weekend and install the lid setup on the old motor to try to get it running decent. Plan is to be able to putt around with it while I finish the new motor to make sure their aren't any glaring issues from sitting on stuff I plan to keep like the fuel pump(only ~5k miles on the Racetronix 255 kit), headlights, wipers, etc.
05-09-2015, 11:39 AM
#78
Tank is empty and looks like ****.
Going to pull it and clean it out, then replace the Racetronix 255 kit that only had between 3k-5k miles
.
Still wanna keep a stock style drop in pump, but wouldn't mind an upgrade since I was going to be close to the single 255 limit anyway. I'm looking at the Aeromotive 340 w/ upgraded bulkhead from racetronix.
Going to pull it and clean it out, then replace the Racetronix 255 kit that only had between 3k-5k miles
.Still wanna keep a stock style drop in pump, but wouldn't mind an upgrade since I was going to be close to the single 255 limit anyway. I'm looking at the Aeromotive 340 w/ upgraded bulkhead from racetronix.
05-09-2015, 02:51 PM
#80
Just today since I saw that I needed a new pump I've went from just replacing with another single 255 (they are dirt cheap now and I already have the upgraded harness that goes straight to alt), replacing with an Aeromotive 340, replacing with dual 255s and an RPM switch to turn on the second around 5k rpms, running a 255 but with a boost-a-pump, and even tossed up sumping the pan for an external race pump (but then decided against that due to heat for street duty and extra cost).
Now I'm back to the 340 w/ upgraded bulkhead connector going to my upgraded Racetronix harness. Seems like the best balance of cost, ease of installation, performance, and most reasonable setup...
Going to give Racetronix a call and talk to them Friday. If I could get away with just a 340 for ~$160, then even with the upgraded bulkhead and having to buy the chemicals to pull and clean the tank I'm looking at only a ~$200-$225 setback.
I expected worse when I pulled the stock pump assembly out and saw the filter sock crumbled in pieces in the bottom of the tank instead of on the pump...as dirty as the tank is I shined a light in there and it is physically sound - just full of varnish and gunk. I though it was rusted out at first and was sure I would need a new tank, pump bracket, sending unit, pump, etc.
