First 1/4 mile Run! 96z28, m6
04-18-2015, 11:16 PM
#21
Cajan, Seems like a lot of ppl roast the tires bad with 410 gears. I would think with hook up your car will hit mid 13s.
SS RRR, Yeah I was happy with my trap speeds for bogging of the line and saving the 10 bolt and actually shifting the m6 properly instead of powershifting. Had to do a small burnout on my street tires because there wasn't enough room to drive around the water box area so I had to burn off the water! My brother Pontiac G8 ran a 13.5 @ 103 with just a hand held tune. He was 4 mph faster in the 1/8 mile than my LT1 but by the quarter mile I was at 101 and he trapped 103. That tells me I was gaining on him in the big half of the quarter! Car definitely has the pull for 13s with good 60ft times and quick shifts I would think?
I'm excited to get the macs on and get rid of the clogged up cats! Solomon tune should help too! I'm thinking the 160 degree stat will make a diff because my car was def faster once it cooled down.
SS RRR, Yeah I was happy with my trap speeds for bogging of the line and saving the 10 bolt and actually shifting the m6 properly instead of powershifting. Had to do a small burnout on my street tires because there wasn't enough room to drive around the water box area so I had to burn off the water! My brother Pontiac G8 ran a 13.5 @ 103 with just a hand held tune. He was 4 mph faster in the 1/8 mile than my LT1 but by the quarter mile I was at 101 and he trapped 103. That tells me I was gaining on him in the big half of the quarter! Car definitely has the pull for 13s with good 60ft times and quick shifts I would think?
I'm excited to get the macs on and get rid of the clogged up cats! Solomon tune should help too! I'm thinking the 160 degree stat will make a diff because my car was def faster once it cooled down.
04-20-2015, 11:10 AM
#22
Cajan, Seems like a lot of ppl roast the tires bad with 410 gears. I would think with hook up your car will hit mid 13s.
SS RRR, Yeah I was happy with my trap speeds for bogging of the line and saving the 10 bolt and actually shifting the m6 properly instead of powershifting. Had to do a small burnout on my street tires because there wasn't enough room to drive around the water box area so I had to burn off the water! My brother Pontiac G8 ran a 13.5 @ 103 with just a hand held tune. He was 4 mph faster in the 1/8 mile than my LT1 but by the quarter mile I was at 101 and he trapped 103. That tells me I was gaining on him in the big half of the quarter! Car definitely has the pull for 13s with good 60ft times and quick shifts I would think?
I'm excited to get the macs on and get rid of the clogged up cats! Solomon tune should help too! I'm thinking the 160 degree stat will make a diff because my car was def faster once it cooled down.
SS RRR, Yeah I was happy with my trap speeds for bogging of the line and saving the 10 bolt and actually shifting the m6 properly instead of powershifting. Had to do a small burnout on my street tires because there wasn't enough room to drive around the water box area so I had to burn off the water! My brother Pontiac G8 ran a 13.5 @ 103 with just a hand held tune. He was 4 mph faster in the 1/8 mile than my LT1 but by the quarter mile I was at 101 and he trapped 103. That tells me I was gaining on him in the big half of the quarter! Car definitely has the pull for 13s with good 60ft times and quick shifts I would think?
I'm excited to get the macs on and get rid of the clogged up cats! Solomon tune should help too! I'm thinking the 160 degree stat will make a diff because my car was def faster once it cooled down.
04-21-2015, 08:18 AM
#23
On the launch you should not quite be dumping it, but kinda bogging it from about 2250 - 2500rpm. Let the torque pull you out of the hole. Spin it to 6100 by the factory tach at least, preferably 6300 (rod bolts are fine at 6300, above 6500 and you get into danger zone). It may not pull any harder past 5500, but shifting at 5500 drops you down to near 3000, and being in a higher gear at 3000 will not accelerate as fast as 6100 in a lower gear. You have to think of the torque curve multiplied by the gear ratio of that gear.
For example, say at 3500rpm you make 300lb ft of torque, but at 6000rpm you only make 250lb ft of torque. Yes, you are making more torque at the lower RPM, but multiply that by the gear ratio in the trans is how much is being APPLIED.
In 2nd gear at 6000 rpm, 2nd gear 2.07 * 250 = 517.5 lb ft to the driveshaft. Shifting to 3rd drops you down to 3500 where you make 300lb ft, 3rd gear 1.43 * 300 = 429lb ft being applied to the tires. 517.5 > 429, so you were accelerating faster when you were in 2nd gear. Best way to do this is to get it on the dyno and pick the shift points based on looking at your graph where shifting will put you at a spot that you apply more power at the new gear than the old gear, and you will be surprised how high you need to go, and your times at the track will back this up 100%.
This is the thing alot of people dont understand when picking shift points. Just because you make more torque at the crank at the lower RPM, once you shift, the multiplication factor of the gearing decreases the applied torque.
Next you need to work on powershifting. This takes ALOT of practice, do it wrong and you can over rev your motor and break stuff. Do it right and you can knock 3 tenths or more off your time easily. Start on the street, run it up to around 6000, and only drop your foot back to about 25% throttle as you press the clutch, slam the next gear, then quickly withdraw your left foot and slam your right foot back to the floor all in 1 smooth motion. Once you get comfortable at 25%, move up to 50%, then 75, then 100% throttle. If you do it right, and quick enough, the RPMs should not rise at all as you shift, even at 100% throttle, since you are shifting so fast. You are literally kicking the clutch in, just down - up, no delay holding it on the floor at all. When you get REALLY good (Im not here yet), you kick the clutch with a motion towards the front left tire, and when your foot gets to the bottom, your foot slides off the clutch and lets it fly back up on its own. The clutch can spring back and disengage faster than you can retract your foot with the muscles in your leg. As I get ready to shift, I start applying a small amount of force on the shifter towards the gear I want to go to, and you can feel it in your hand when the clutch engages, and the shifter just kinda "goes" into the next gear. When you feel the shifter start to move as the clutch engages, you apply full force with your hand to shift quicker to the next gear. Your brain needs to tell your foot to start coming back up as soon as your hand has started moving. By the time your brain tells your foot to move, the shifter is in the next gear. There should be no thought process, just a naturally, flowing, 1 motion move.
WARNING: If you **** up and miss the gear, or hit neutral and you are at 100% throttle, RPMs will skyrocket. You need to be quick enough reacting to feel your hand miss the gear and get that right foot off the throttle ASAP. Ive missed a bunch of times, I had a bad case of the YIPs hit me a couple years ago on the 4th gear shift.
For example, say at 3500rpm you make 300lb ft of torque, but at 6000rpm you only make 250lb ft of torque. Yes, you are making more torque at the lower RPM, but multiply that by the gear ratio in the trans is how much is being APPLIED.
In 2nd gear at 6000 rpm, 2nd gear 2.07 * 250 = 517.5 lb ft to the driveshaft. Shifting to 3rd drops you down to 3500 where you make 300lb ft, 3rd gear 1.43 * 300 = 429lb ft being applied to the tires. 517.5 > 429, so you were accelerating faster when you were in 2nd gear. Best way to do this is to get it on the dyno and pick the shift points based on looking at your graph where shifting will put you at a spot that you apply more power at the new gear than the old gear, and you will be surprised how high you need to go, and your times at the track will back this up 100%.
This is the thing alot of people dont understand when picking shift points. Just because you make more torque at the crank at the lower RPM, once you shift, the multiplication factor of the gearing decreases the applied torque.
Next you need to work on powershifting. This takes ALOT of practice, do it wrong and you can over rev your motor and break stuff. Do it right and you can knock 3 tenths or more off your time easily. Start on the street, run it up to around 6000, and only drop your foot back to about 25% throttle as you press the clutch, slam the next gear, then quickly withdraw your left foot and slam your right foot back to the floor all in 1 smooth motion. Once you get comfortable at 25%, move up to 50%, then 75, then 100% throttle. If you do it right, and quick enough, the RPMs should not rise at all as you shift, even at 100% throttle, since you are shifting so fast. You are literally kicking the clutch in, just down - up, no delay holding it on the floor at all. When you get REALLY good (Im not here yet), you kick the clutch with a motion towards the front left tire, and when your foot gets to the bottom, your foot slides off the clutch and lets it fly back up on its own. The clutch can spring back and disengage faster than you can retract your foot with the muscles in your leg. As I get ready to shift, I start applying a small amount of force on the shifter towards the gear I want to go to, and you can feel it in your hand when the clutch engages, and the shifter just kinda "goes" into the next gear. When you feel the shifter start to move as the clutch engages, you apply full force with your hand to shift quicker to the next gear. Your brain needs to tell your foot to start coming back up as soon as your hand has started moving. By the time your brain tells your foot to move, the shifter is in the next gear. There should be no thought process, just a naturally, flowing, 1 motion move.
WARNING: If you **** up and miss the gear, or hit neutral and you are at 100% throttle, RPMs will skyrocket. You need to be quick enough reacting to feel your hand miss the gear and get that right foot off the throttle ASAP. Ive missed a bunch of times, I had a bad case of the YIPs hit me a couple years ago on the 4th gear shift.