Dave M

Edit: Nevermind, I found a write-up on it but I still can't get the upper A-arm to move at all in order to remove the old spindle.

Cajun ELESS-ONE

there are several write ups on it. why dont you just swap to the ls1 spindles? it would be alot easier. i would advise getting longer brake lines. the stock ones will work but they get pretty tight when you turn the wheel full lock

Dave M

I have LS1 spindles, I'm just not 100% sure how to get the old ones out. I've searched this site and YouTube and haven't found any write ups.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

The Cam Master, Stealth Formula wrote this up a few weeks ago.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...nt-brakes.html

hrcslam

I just did this, well, bleeding tomorrow.

Take a 5lb sledge to the ball joint. Works like a charm. Make sure to leave the nut partially on to protect the threads of the ball joint though. Pops right off.

BTW, all 1998 (gen 4.2) f-bodies come with the larger 12" rotors and dual piston calipers.

EDIT: Got them Bled. Some before and after results: Before with the 11" Rotors I couldn't brake stand, the car would push through the front brakes even if I stood on the brake pedal. Now, it brake stands easily and I can feather the pedal up and still not move.

The brake pedal is no where near as firm now either. There's a plus and minus to this. The minus is less confidence in brake feel/feedback. The plus is it's easier to push the pedal, so less effort.

The pedal also travels further with the dual piston calipers. It was weird at first as I was used to the old pedal travel. But, it is a great benefit as this puts the brake pedal closer to the throttle making heel toe much easier now.

I did a couple max braking stops with excellent results. Although I will say the actual stop felt the same (which it should), but it took less effort (pressure on the pedal) to get there. I didn't slip or slide the front at all even though the rotors are larger with bigger pistons and brake pads. UPDATE: It does stop much faster. I did a yellow light quick stop and ended up stopping about 50 feet short of the stop line, using the same pressure as I would with the old set up. Huge improvement.

During my max brake test my rear tires slipped still, so that means the rears are still working enough to help with braking (maybe still a bit too much). Or it might be because of increased brake dive unloading the rear tires more than before? Not sure. It's a rare occurrence to stand on the brakes like that and it offered full control. Daily driving I usually toe/heel down shift so I barely use the rear brakes anyway (or the front for that matter).

So far so good.