Why would an LT1 keep spinning rod bearings?
#1
Why would an LT1 keep spinning rod bearings?
This is on my 92 corvette. I head what I though to be lifters ticking, so I tore the car down to change them. While I was in there, I put in an LT4 hotcam and some comp magnum 1.6 roller rockers. Got it back together and took it for a drive. 30 miles later, I had zero power and the oil temps were around 280*F. Dipstick was covered in metal, so I tore it down and found two spun rod bearings.
Rather than rebuild, I opted for a 120K LT1 out of an Impala SS (I know, but I was thinking about selling and getting a C5 anyway). Took the pan off, oil was dark, absolutely no metal to be seen, no play in the rods. Swapped over the heads, cam, pickup tube and oil pan from the old motor. Got it all back together and had **** poor oil pressure, roughly 5-10 PSI, ran it like that for maybe 45 seconds. Found out that I didn't seat the oil pump drive gear properly, replaced that and oil pressure was fine.
Took it out for a test drive, power felt good, oil temps were a tick higher than normal, but no big deal. Drove it 14 miles and once again the power was headed downhill and the oil temps were rising. Sure enough, a ton of metal on the dipstick. Haven't gotten it back out yet, but smart money is on the rods again.
Did I just have a run of bad luck, or is there something with these LT1's?
Rather than rebuild, I opted for a 120K LT1 out of an Impala SS (I know, but I was thinking about selling and getting a C5 anyway). Took the pan off, oil was dark, absolutely no metal to be seen, no play in the rods. Swapped over the heads, cam, pickup tube and oil pan from the old motor. Got it all back together and had **** poor oil pressure, roughly 5-10 PSI, ran it like that for maybe 45 seconds. Found out that I didn't seat the oil pump drive gear properly, replaced that and oil pressure was fine.
Took it out for a test drive, power felt good, oil temps were a tick higher than normal, but no big deal. Drove it 14 miles and once again the power was headed downhill and the oil temps were rising. Sure enough, a ton of metal on the dipstick. Haven't gotten it back out yet, but smart money is on the rods again.
Did I just have a run of bad luck, or is there something with these LT1's?
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Yikes...must have done something wrong in the cam install or not had clean parts/work area doing it.
Why would you take a step back from an aluminum headed 4 bolt main real "corvette motor" To a heavier iron headed high mileage 2 bolt main cop car LT1?
That was a mistake #2 IMO...A corvette deserves better!
Why would you take a step back from an aluminum headed 4 bolt main real "corvette motor" To a heavier iron headed high mileage 2 bolt main cop car LT1?
That was a mistake #2 IMO...A corvette deserves better!
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#10
Yeah, I got a chip from PCM of NC.
Yikes...must have done something wrong in the cam install or not had clean parts/work area doing it.
Why would you take a step back from an aluminum headed 4 bolt main real "corvette motor" To a heavier iron headed high mileage 2 bolt main cop car LT1?
That was a mistake #2 IMO...A corvette deserves better!
Why would you take a step back from an aluminum headed 4 bolt main real "corvette motor" To a heavier iron headed high mileage 2 bolt main cop car LT1?
That was a mistake #2 IMO...A corvette deserves better!
Yeah, with the age of the car and a non original motor to start with, I didn't think much of it. If the cam couldn't have caused this, the first time was just bad luck, and the second time was my own dumbass fault.
#11
TECH Resident
Did you check the crank journals/rod end tolerances(for an out of round condition) along with all the bearing clearances?
How about knocking out the oil plugs/removing the allens screws and rifle brushing all oil passages to insure none are blocked?
How about the cam bearings? Any copper showing?
How about knocking out the oil plugs/removing the allens screws and rifle brushing all oil passages to insure none are blocked?
How about the cam bearings? Any copper showing?
#12
TECH Addict
Did you check the crank journals/rod end tolerances(for an out of round condition) along with all the bearing clearances?
How about knocking out the oil plugs/removing the allens screws and rifle brushing all oil passages to insure none are blocked?
How about the cam bearings? Any copper showing?
How about knocking out the oil plugs/removing the allens screws and rifle brushing all oil passages to insure none are blocked?
How about the cam bearings? Any copper showing?
#13
Did you check the crank journals/rod end tolerances(for an out of round condition) along with all the bearing clearances?
How about knocking out the oil plugs/removing the allens screws and rifle brushing all oil passages to insure none are blocked?
How about the cam bearings? Any copper showing?
How about knocking out the oil plugs/removing the allens screws and rifle brushing all oil passages to insure none are blocked?
How about the cam bearings? Any copper showing?
#14
TECH Resident
At the end of the day, the oil film broke down for some reason. The big question is why?
I think Wrd1972 had major trouble when some quality control marks on a new cam clogged up the oil passages to a couple of the mains after a new cam install. In this thread....last post.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1-...ctures-713070/
Here are a couple more of my threads when I was diving into replacing the bearings in my LT1.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1-...arings-746672/
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1-...arings-749300/
Last edited by ACE1252; 04-28-2015 at 11:45 PM.
#19
According to the gauge, it had oil pressure, just not a whole lot. Still doesn't explain the first motor either, I had the pan off on the original motor to change the gasket, at the same time I did the cam. No metal at all in the pan. 30 miles after that, with rock solid oil pressure mind you, it torched every single bearing.
That's a little bit unusual don't you think?