KLaBZ28

iTrader: (4)

I was hoping to get some advice from you guys with experience with this stuff. This is my first time messing with nitrous oxide. I found a pretty good deal on a brand new unopened dyno tune wet nozzle kit with a bunch of extras; bottle warmer, electric bottle opener, purge kit, RPM activated window switch, and some other switches and accessories. I still need to go through and figure out exactly what I have, I just got a big box full of goodies.

Link to base kit:
https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/stor...?idproduct=110

Extras:
https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/stor...?idcategory=33
https://www.dynotunenitrous.com/stor...p?idproduct=17

My car is a bolt on only LT1 with 96k on it, SS3600 stalled stock 4l60e with shift kit, and stock 10 bolt with girdle and factory 3.42's. It has a pretty good oil leak right now from almost everywhere, so I ordered a front timing cover gasket set, intake manifold gaskets and "the right stuff" to seal the problem areas, and oil pan gasket to try to seal it up before I start spraying it on a leaky engine. I was also thinking with the mileage on it, it might be a good idea to upgrade the valve springs and do roller rockers (I'm not going to do a cam yet because I'd like to dial it in first).

I did a bit of research on which plugs to go with and I think I'll go with the BR6EF's, I should probably upgrade from the factory wires as well. I ordered a Racetronix 255lph pump to go along with it, some LS1 injectors with low miles (same flowrate but should be more efficient than my 96k mile stock LT1s), and an aluminum trick flow TB elbow to drill and tap for the nozzle. I guess what I really need before I get started is:

- spark plug selection confirmation
- spark plug wires
- location of nozzle placement
- valve spring and roller rockers for a bolt on spray only car
- any parts I may be missing
- anything else I should do before installing and starting to spray

Hopefully I can get some pointers from you guys before I start going crazy with this. I am doing the tuning myself, it looks like I'll be focusing on pulling timing and keeping and eye on the AFR via my LC-1 wideband. I might give tunerpro a try instead of tunercats. I think since the trans is stock I wont spray out of the hole, and probably just hit the switch when I feel like I'm going fast enough not to put too much of a load on it. I'm pretty excited to start with 50 and work my way up to 150. I was back and forth with the idea of ditching the LT1, selling it and swapping a 6.0 and start messing with turbos but I got too good of a deal on this setup, wont be tearing into the engine, way cheaper, and I can always mess with lsx turbo down the road. I have a spare 50k mile shortblock and spare 10 bolt in case I break something so I'm not too worried, mostly worried about the trans.

BSmiff

-I would activate the nitrous using a more solid activation method if you are aiming for any kind of consistency. And remember any nitrous expert will tell you that all the nitrous you plan on using should be in before 60 ft.
-BR7EF plugs are the general consensus for a starting plug on a small hit of nitrous
-The Mallory 685 box does pretty much everything you need for nitrous. I would look into that.
-If you dont think your trans is going to hold, nitrous is definitely not going to help that situation haha
-Make sure whatever youre using to pull timing is doing so BEFORE you hit that button. It would suck to find out when you melt 8 plugs and hurt 1-8 pistons.

KLaBZ28

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll look into the Mallory 685. Is that what you're meaning as far as a "more solid activation method" than a window and WOT switch?

BSmiff

Anything other than this:

"probably just hit the switch when I feel like I'm going fast enough not to put too much of a load on it."

KLaBZ28

iTrader: (4)

good call

BSmiff

Keep the forum updated on your progress. Ill spray my car one day. Most of my knowledge base is from watching my dad hurt his SBC over and over. And of course the nitrous subforum on yellowbullet.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I have a ported/descreened MAF with the body behind the sensor drilled and tapped for a nitrous nozzle. I got it this way, but it had been welded shut, so I drilled a new hole and tapped it when I was going to run a similar kit. I dont need it anymore, so if you want it I will straight up trade you for your stock MAF body, you ship me yours Ill ship you mine. PM me if interested.

When I was piecing out a similar setup, I did the walbro 255, Howards valvesprings, 1.6 NSA comp pro mags, 7/16 studs, guideplates, an "armed" switch, a window switch, and was going to get a WOT switch and MSD 6AL to pull timing. That way it only activates if you flip the "armed" switch, are in the window, and at WOT, and would pull timing when activated. I ended up pussying out and selling the kit before trying it out, but I think I was on the right path.

KLaBZ28

iTrader: (4)

I did a little more reading and I have a aluminum trick flow elbow. I'm going to mount the nozzle in the aluminum right in front of the tb for a better spray, wont be as ideal as a plate but it should do the trick. As far as controls, yes thats what I was thinking. I would like to wire it so it has to satisfy WOT and the RPM window, then I could hit the button whenever I'm ready mounted near the shifter or something.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I have and LS1 lid so the MAF is a straight shot to the TB.