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The motor is just past 1000 miles and this is the 2nd time I had to pull the trans because of the rear main leaking still. But this time when I went to unbolt the flywheel 3 bolt heads snapped off with almost zero effort. I torqued to 74ftlb's. What did I do wrong? The first time I used loctite, the second time I used nothing just made sure the threads were clean.
Those are super critical bolts. I'd get in touch with ARP either for a replacement set or to send yours back to inspect for manufacturing defects. Are those 200-2807? I have them on my FW, IIRC SS RRR has them too.
OP if you look at the broken bolts with a magnifying glass a entirely uniform looking end with maybe a twist to it will indicate a clean break when you loosened it. If you see any dark areas on the edge of the break, that would indicate a pre-existing crack. I doubt 3 bolts would be cracked though. Could you post a pic(s) of the ends of the broken bolts?
The bolts are 200-208 and I contacted arp and there sending me replacements. Ive never seen bolts break like this. Top 2 youll notice do have some black scaring on them
are you experiencing any vibration from your new motor?
By vibration what do you mean? the cars very stiff so i experience lots of vibrations. If you are referring to the rotating assembly, I had it balanced at the machine shop prior to install of the current parts im using.
What kind of FW are you using and do the bolt holes have a chamfer? The ARP bolts have a fairly generous radius from the head to the shank, bolts made this way need a chamfer on the edge of the bolt hole (or washer in other applications) for clearance. You'll notice the bolts in you 2nd pic have the bolt head to shank radius scared up. This will happen when they are installed without the proper chamfer on the edge of the bolt hole. If this is the case, which is hard to tell from here, the bolt will be loaded improperly.
What kind of FW are you using and do the bolt holes have a chamfer? The ARP bolts have a fairly generous radius from the head to the shank, bolts made this way need a chamfer on the edge of the bolt hole (or washer in other applications) for clearance. You'll notice the bolts in you 2nd pic have the bolt head to shank radius scared up. This will happen when they are installed without the proper chamfer on the edge of the bolt hole. If this is the case, which is hard to tell from here, the bolt will be loaded improperly.
I have a ram alluminum flywheel. When I get home I'm pulling the flywheel off so I'll check the holes. So would it help to have washers then, if that's the case ?
I have a ram alluminum flywheel. When I get home I'm pulling the flywheel off so I'll check the holes. So would it help to have washers then, if that's the case ?
No I wouldn't use washers in this instance as GM didn't. I would put a small chamfer on the FW bolt holes if Ram didn't. The ARP bolt heads should sit flat on the FW flange, if they are hitting on the bolt head radius they will stand proud of the FW. Either you can chamfer the bolt holes or a machine shop could do it, it wouldn't take much. Keep in mind the small washer face on the underside of the bolt head that bears on the FW.
No I wouldn't use washers in this instance as GM didn't. I would put a small chamfer on the FW bolt holes if Ram didn't. The ARP bolt heads should sit flat on the FW flange, if they are hitting on the bolt head radius they will stand proud of the FW. Either you can chamfer the bolt holes or a machine shop could do it, it wouldn't take much. Keep in mind the small washer face on the underside of the bolt head that bears on the FW.
Alright well first off any ideas to get this thing off. My blowproof bell housing is making things more difficult
Spray some form of penetrant on the crankshaft to FW area. Reinstall a couple FW bolts loosely to prevent the FW from popping off the crank and on to the floor. Pry on it on the backside or remove the starter and tap on it with a soft drift then spin the engine and repeat.
Previously did you use red loctite on the bolts?
Looks like the FW bolt holes are chamfered enough.
Spray some form of penetrant on the crankshaft to FW area. Reinstall a couple FW bolts loosely to prevent the FW from popping off the crank and on to the floor. Pry on it on the backside or remove the starter and tap on it with a soft drift then spin the engine and repeat.
Previously did you use red loctite on the bolts?
Looks like the FW bolt holes are chamfered enough.
I got it out. How do I determine if the bolt holes are out of round?
07-22-2015, 11:19 AM
Broken Arp flywheel bolts what's causes this?! 
