cec326

Ok guys, im stumpped. 94 z28 m6. Stock clutch was replaced with a ram powergrip accompanied by a ram billet flywheel. Hydraulics are all stock.

Problem is the clutch doesnt grab until the pedal is released almost all the way. I tried spacing the slave back from the slave spacer by about 1/4 inch. Nothing changed.

Anyone got any ideas?

I tried searching but was not successfull.

Thanks in advance.

Boxxx

Silly question, but you did bleed it right? The second thing to do would be to look for an adjustment rod between the clutch pedal and the master cylinder. I've never looked on a fourth gen but every other manual car I've owned has some adjustment to the pedal itself.

cec326

Yeah i did semi bleed it... Lol dont ask.. I believe the bleed is good. I dont believe there is any clutch adjustment.

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

you need and adjustable MC. I recommend the Tick. It is pricey but worth it. Also the speed bleeder is a heaven sent.

If you do get a Tick MC you'll want the pedal about 1/2" above the brake pedal.

cec326

I will give the tick master cylinder a try. I looked it up and yeah its pricy but it looks promising. thank you guys for the input. Ill post with results after the job is done.

hrcslam

When I had the Ram HDX set up on a stock fly wheel, mine did the exact same thing. It would slip too if I tried to ride into it at high rpms. But would grab if I just popped the clutch. Basically, at high rpm low gear if my tires didn't break loose, my clutch did. It did that before and after my engine rebuild. Now I run the McLeod disc on a stock PP and flywheel, no slipping issues (chatters a bit at low rpm and low speed though where the RAM HDX was always smooth) and grabs where it should.

cec326

Oh i definitely get low rpm chatter with the ram powergrip/aluminum flywheel combo.

97pontta

iTrader: (10)

Make sure the hydraulics are bled well and in great shape with good fluid (not dark with floaties). Spacing the slave towards or away from it's mounting point will change nothing. It's pry too late now as you can't see it when installed, but a worn clutch release fork and or "T" bolt will cause some funny issues with release as well. Did you check these items for wear when you were replacing the clutch?

Also, going from a worn stock clutch to a new aftermarket brand may change the engagement point of the clutch as you have a different pressure plate and it may not function like the stock one did. If it's not slipping and the engagement point is consistent you may just need to get used to it.

I run one of the Tick adjustable master cylinders which are nice (I run a twin disc clutch so I need more release), but are pricey. If the extra slave travel is not needed you won't gain much over properly bled and functioning stock hydraulics on a single disc clutch.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Most clutches I have used always engage either half way or 3/4 way of travel. At one time I had the RAM HD with a billet steel flywheel and had a clutch drag problem. Bought an adjustable m/c, adjusted it as far as it could go and it still did not solve the drag problem. Still have the PP and clutch I'll sell cheap if anyone is interested. Use at your own risk. Has less than a thousand miles on it.
This is what I am wondering? I thought the adjustable M/C was in case there were dragging issues, where the OP does not have that problem, therefore I don't see how it could be a benefit.

Lt1Porsche

iTrader: (6)

I would say the first thing is to make sure the system is properly bled and has good fluid bc if not an adjustable m.c will not help at all. Money wasted.