LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Will not crank

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Old 08-03-2015, 07:00 AM
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Default Will not crank

Started the car and fired up as usual, started to back the car out of the garage after about 30 seconds of run time and she just turned off, went to start it back up and no crank, all of the lights, pumps gages will turn on but she just wont crank. I checked out all of the fuses, wiring, battery voltage and all good, Replaced the ignition switch and still the same. I jumped the starter and the engine turned over but would not start, Running out of ideas.

Last edited by moehorsepower; 08-03-2015 at 07:01 AM. Reason: edit
Old 08-03-2015, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by moehorsepower
Started the car and fired up as usual, started to back the car out of the garage after about 30 seconds of run time and she just turned off, went to start it back up and no crank, all of the lights, pumps gages will turn on but she just wont crank. I checked out all of the fuses, wiring, battery voltage and all good, Replaced the ignition switch and still the same. I jumped the starter and the engine turned over but would not start, Running out of ideas.
Is the VATS disabled? Sounds like a total text book case of ignition switch. But you said you replaced it so I guess that cancels that out.
Old 08-03-2015, 07:24 AM
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Yup, changed it out with same results, If it were vats it would still crank, Im at a loss, I worked on it all weekend, checking wires, fuse, Clutch switch ect.
Old 08-03-2015, 08:09 AM
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I had a buddies 94 T/A do something similar, ended up being a broken pink wire up by the computer.
Old 08-03-2015, 09:22 AM
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ok I'll check
Old 08-03-2015, 11:00 AM
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Do you have power on the purple wire at the starter while cranking? And your connections are clean and tight?
Old 08-03-2015, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by sweetbmxrider
Do you have power on the purple wire at the starter while cranking? And your connections are clean and tight?
Thats what I have to check, but no one is around to crank while I check for power, I am going to have to improvise something..
Old 08-03-2015, 09:41 PM
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really long alligator clips.
Old 08-04-2015, 07:35 AM
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OK, here's the new issue, I re-checked every fuse one by one, and realized the PCM fuse in the drivers side panel was blown, ( I looked at this a couple of times) replaced the fuse and she fired up, BUT.......after about 10 seconds, it pops the fuse, of course it means a direct ground somewhere, but where?
Old 08-04-2015, 07:48 AM
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At this point you will need a power distribution diagram and will have to check everything on that fuse circuit. good luck.
Old 08-04-2015, 10:09 AM
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Which fuse number? And year of car?
Old 08-04-2015, 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by moehorsepower
OK, here's the new issue, I re-checked every fuse one by one, and realized the PCM fuse in the drivers side panel was blown, ( I looked at this a couple of times) replaced the fuse and she fired up, BUT.......after about 10 seconds, it pops the fuse, of course it means a direct ground somewhere, but where?
You need a sig....I take it this is a 1994 Buick Roadmaster Estate station wagon?


Old 08-04-2015, 10:43 AM
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car is at the house so do t know the fuse number, it's a 95z
Old 08-04-2015, 10:55 AM
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That fuse feeds PCM, MAF, theft deterrent module and fuel pump relay so something is drawing to much.

From another site.. "+12 ignition to fuse #5 (15 amp) in IP fuse block goes to splice (s205) uner dash two pink wires break out and go to FP relay and Theft Deterrent Module and one breaks out and goes out big firewall grommet and pink wires break out again to the MAS and to the PCM pins B3 and D30 at a splice near the PCM (s132) . If +12 ign is on the MAS then you got a problem in the splices or wiring. No +12 at MAS then check pink wire from fuse #5 coming out of IP fuse panel left side of dash. Never had to get that down and dirty chasing dash wires, it can be a PITA.."
Old 08-04-2015, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
That fuse feeds PCM, MAF, theft deterrent module and fuel pump relay so something is drawing to much.

From another site.. "+12 ignition to fuse #5 (15 amp) in IP fuse block goes to splice (s205) uner dash two pink wires break out and go to FP relay and Theft Deterrent Module and one breaks out and goes out big firewall grommet and pink wires break out again to the MAS and to the PCM pins B3 and D30 at a splice near the PCM (s132) . If +12 ign is on the MAS then you got a problem in the splices or wiring. No +12 at MAS then check pink wire from fuse #5 coming out of IP fuse panel left side of dash. Never had to get that down and dirty chasing dash wires, it can be a PITA.."

Yup I hate chasing electrical gremlins, Thanks, I'll start checking.
Old 08-04-2015, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
That fuse feeds PCM, MAF, theft deterrent module and fuel pump relay so something is drawing to much.

From another site.. "+12 ignition to fuse #5 (15 amp) in IP fuse block goes to splice (s205) uner dash two pink wires break out and go to FP relay and Theft Deterrent Module and one breaks out and goes out big firewall grommet and pink wires break out again to the MAS and to the PCM pins B3 and D30 at a splice near the PCM (s132) . If +12 ign is on the MAS then you got a problem in the splices or wiring. No +12 at MAS then check pink wire from fuse #5 coming out of IP fuse panel left side of dash. Never had to get that down and dirty chasing dash wires, it can be a PITA.."
Now thats the information you would get from a good diagram. nice job SNM
Old 08-10-2015, 10:57 AM
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Still no luck, trying to bypass the Theft deterrent module next, Its a direct short because if I put a 10amp fuse it blows as soon as I key on.
Old 08-10-2015, 12:36 PM
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Have you tried unplugging MAF, then FP relay, then PCM, to see if short exists in any of them?

Their easy to access and may narrow it down.
Old 08-10-2015, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
Have you tried unplugging MAF, then FP relay, then PCM, to see if short exists in any of them?

Their easy to access and may narrow it down.
This. Unplug all of them, then plug on in at a time until the fuse blows. Then you know which one is the problem. If the fuse blows with them all disconnected its a wiring short between the fuse and anyone of those locations.
Old 08-10-2015, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Shownomercy
Have you tried unplugging MAF, then FP relay, then PCM, to see if short exists in any of them?

Their easy to access and may narrow it down.
No cause I figure if the MAF, or FP regulator was shorted the car wouldnt run, but Im running out of ideas so I will try that today when I get home..I also changed out he PCM this past weekend and no luck. Hopefully it will be one of these, just have to go buy a supply of 10 amp fuses!



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