Quan Cheese

Well I didn't buy one one but have the cash to buy one just trying to find one! I used to have a 98 z28 some years back then got into Mustangs. Had an 04 GT and a 11 GT and now have an 09 GT but not looking to mod this one. Anyway I'm seeking this advice now on what to do to the car rather then piece a bunch of stuff together then later change my plans or find out there was a better route.. Been there done that. I spend a lot of time at the drag strip and wanna get it a few tenths into the 11s.. Few of my questions are 6 speed or automatic? I'm assuming auto for the strip but love driving manual. Also what kind of power can those transmissions handle? When do they start to break? I'm gonna figure my rear needs to be beefed up since I'd be running slicks. I'm really aiming to keep it N/A and if a good head and cam combo will get my 11s that would be great? Honestly I have so much questions but not gonna throw them all in here at once haha. Mod wise lets say I have about 5grand to dump into the car..

LT1BADZ

iTrader: (1)

A built rear (9" or 12 bolt) will eat up about half your budget. Rear LCA's and relo brackets would be another $100. A converter maybe $400-500, and a head/cam/intake/exhaust would be about another $2000+. That should get you close.

Quan Cheese

So about 2grand for the rear? After the rear is done will it be good to run the slicks? Any issues with the transmissions?

hrcslam

Probably closer to $3k.

Quan Cheese

My god thats expensive. Do you guys build the current rear or just completely swap it out for a better one? What all besides axles will need to be done to the rear to hold up to slicks? I never got to involved in the rear in my 09 gt just ran slicks on the stock rear. I'm aware the f bodies aren't nearly as strong

hrcslam

The stock rear is a 7.5" 10 bolt. Google it. You'll see why.

4K+Converter

If you go automatic, you *might* have some luck with the stock 10 bolt. They hit the rear end a little less hard than a manual. Mine held up to the occasional high 1.5 or low 1.6 60'. I knew a heads and cam LS guy who pulled high 1.4 60's with a T/A stud girdle. It'll be a ticking time bomb. Depending on how lucky you are, it might be a while before it blows up.

You might consider buying a car with the rear end done. You will be buying someone elses' project car, and there are a ton of strings attached there. You might spend that $5K fixing problems so you have the rear end already one.

Driving a stalled auto in an all motor car is its own brand of fun. I daily drove a CC306/LE2 car for 3 years. For a fun street/strip car, it'll be a blast.

As for what combo to go with, both LE and AI have awesome head and cam packages that will get you into the 11's pretty easily.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

If you search around you can find a used 9" or 12 bolt for $1200-1500.

Shownomercy

iTrader: (1)

What is your location?

3.73 geared, ford nine inch with non adjustable LCA, and DS for $2300

MonmouthCtyLS7

iTrader: (6)

Curious on why you want a LT1 when LS's are pretty much the same price? Both can reach your goals but it'll be a lot easier w/ an LS along w/ a much bigger variety of go fast parts to choose from.

lt1_2buku

iTrader: (4)

I agree with Monmouth. While I love my LT1 and get a certain feelin knowing I'm probably the only lt1 on the road at the moment I'm driving it (maybe wishful thinking) if I had it to do over again I would have went LS1. But I had lots of time and lots of money into mine so I felt a sense of loyalty to the car and LT1. But if I was starting from scratch I would go LSx.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I would only be looking at 6spd LS1 (best of the best ) cars if looking to get in the f-body game fresh.

LT1BADZ

iTrader: (1)

I just bought a 97 Camaro Z28, M6, 80k miles, clean car for $4500. I was shopping for LS1's, but most of them in the 4-5k price range were very high mileage and somewhat rusty underneath. I've owned LS1's in the past, but I do like this LT1. If you get an auto LT1, go with a Yank 3400-3600 converter, headers and full exhaust, cold air intake, tune and you should be easily in the 12's on a good tire. You can always spray your way into the 11's after the first 60-100ft so you're not too hard on the stock rear. Yea, a built 9" can be 2-3k depending on options and used/new.

Quan Cheese

That's my issue also. The 98 on up z28s are way over priced especially the 01-02s. But i can grab an lt1 for a few grand and have money left over for goodies. Plus I like the 94-97 body style anyway. My friends auto ran 13.3 with just shorty headers and catback and 3.42 gears with a 1.9 60ft. Freak? Maybe so. But after seeing how strong his is I wanna get back into one. Sadly I never dragged raced when I had my ls1

MonmouthCtyLS7

iTrader: (6)

Not sure where your shopping but LS1's are dirt cheap everywhere, especially Camaros. I ran similar times w/ the same mods on a 2.0 60ft in my 97 so that's pretty normal. Since were bench racing that EASY 12 second pass would be an 11 second pass w/ a LS. Good luck w/ whatever you choose, both good motors one will just take more to get there.

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

mr.mustang214

iTrader: (8)

I was just going through this dilemma. I've owned an LS Camaro in the past and was ready for another toy. I live in the midwest and could not find a decent LS Camaro or Trans Am for under $6k. Started looking at LT1s and picked up a 93 a4 cammed with fresh paint for $2k. Interior needs some TLC but the car is perfectly driveable with decent power. Now granted I was not willing to travel, so my search was limited to local craigslist ads. In my experience LT1s are incredibly cheaper than LS cars.

HellTeeOne

The stock rear can live behind an auto, I've seen folks run into the low 11s and high 10s with them. However, as stated, it will be a weak link. A set of quality Motive 3.73s and a girdle will help it live. Ultimately, I'd plan on upgrading it down the road though.

Mid-11s in the 115-119mph range is easily doable in a well set-up car with a good set of ported heads and matching camshaft, full exhaust, good converter and built 4L60E tranny. You'll need a dyno tune and a set of good drag radials as well.

LT14LIFE JT

iTrader: (1)

^^^^^
What he said. Stock 10 bolts with a girdle will withstand a good amount of power as long they aren't "shocked" with a stick car or an outrageous stall or large amount of nitrous. LOL

Vicious95Z28

iTrader: (1)

My cam only car, mods in my sig. On Mickey Thompson dr's from a roll I busted every tooth off of the ring gear but 4. This wasn't revving and dumping the clutch it was a simple turn off of one street onto another and when the car straightened out in the road I nailed it. Bang, clang, crash....Ugh, tow home.