350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Ran 14.2 @ 101 in April with bald tires. Went to strip yesterday with newer bf goodrich comp 2's and my times slowed to 14.3-14.6 @ 100-101. I was hoping for 13.9-14.1. Instead I got horrible wheel hop off the line 2.4-2.8 60ft times and multiple tire roastings when shifting into 2nd. Really annoying. So..... either these tires suck or its time for suspension mods. Any suggestions to get rid of wheel hop. Hoping for mid 13s with bolt ons this up -coming spring.

Jaxem

iTrader: (3)

Tubular LCA's, drag springs/shocks, maybe relocation brackets if you're not level...

You're wheel hopping because you have so much more traction, note after you get hooking up your 60 should drop

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Adjustable TQ arm, LCAs, and Relos pretty much eliminated wheelhop for me.

If you are lowered, you NEED relocation brackets.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

Should I do relocation brackets along with lca's to get a good angle. My car isn't lowered but I heard relo's help regardless? How about a panhard bar?

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

What's the current setup? Auto/stick?

madhatter

Control arms and adj torque arm to start. These alone worked for me and many others, the relocation brackets seem to get mixed results. I threw them on anyways later on since they were cheap. I personally have not noticed much difference.

350 groundpounder

iTrader: (5)

It's a m6. I noticed my panhard bar had a slight bend to it tonight so I have a non adjustable umi phb coming!!!!

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

The upper panhard bar is supposed to have that bend in it and has no effect on straight line performance, it only keeps the axle centered while cornering. How were you launching? You should be bogging it from 2000 rpm, not slipping or dumping the clutch. If you are stock ride height and stock power you shouldn't need LCAs or anything yet, and there's no reason with stock power of you are not dumping the clutch on new tires that it should spin or hop on a well prepped track.

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

If your in the market for some updated suspension give us a call here at the shop. Depending on what your future plans are for the car and what you currently run will determine what components are best suited for you.

http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...ex&cPath=7_138

All UMI products are made of U.S. Steel "in house" from raw material to powder coat.
Nothing is outsourced.

Craig

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Make sure to get this taken care of before going back to the track. The violent changes in pinion angle can destroy the differential. If it were me, along with LCA's and relo's, I'd also look into replacing the shocks.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

The main things for getting rid of wheel hop are lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets, torque arm, and shocks. Most of the time you can take care of the wheel hop with just lower control arms and lower control arm relocation brackets but it really depends on the combination and the other variables that contribute to wheel hop.

Unfortunately, you will notice minimal if any gain from the panhard rod.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

For stock ride height and stock power, all you should need are some good control arm bushings and some decent shocks. Stiff bushings are the most important, especially in a manual trans car.

VoyagerCamaro

I have weld in 3. SFC's, tubular LCAs, relocation brackets, strut tower brace, shocks, springs, sway bars and a adjustable panhard bar. Basically only stock thing suspension wise left on my car is the torque arm... I've noticed nothing bad with the setup I have now.. The car has proven to be a top 5 car almost every event and has always been a top 10 car. 2 wins so far... Will I have any gain with a torque arm?

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

You will definitely see some improvement going to a better torque arm. The car will plant the tires better and be more consistent. The factory torque arm tends to deflect while under load which throws off the suspension and allows unwanted movement.

What kind of driving are you doing with the car?

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like driver mod to me

lt1-xjs

Get a real drag radial.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

"Newer" tires you say? How old are they? Tires do dry rot and degrade with age. Aren't those "all season" tires? If so no wonder they suck so bad!

Why not get some decent drag radials or at the minimum some sticky Z rated summer tires....tires make all the difference!

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Yeah, they are all season tires and crap at best at the drag strip. Getting a better tire will help with wheel hop, improve times, and improve consistency for sure but you can add a few suspension parts and keep it from wheel hopping if he wants to stick with the tires he has.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Bone stock, with a stock 10 bolt, you should not be dumping the clutch, and you shouldn't be spinning with stock geometry, sounds to me like you are sidestepping the clutch and trying to power through it, stop doing that and you'll be fine.

ramair96ws6

iTrader: (8)

Get rid of those tires. You need more sidewall and a Bias Ply tire something like a MT 26 11.50 15 and the car will launch without hop. The tire is loading and unloading. Even with those suspension parts the car is still going to hop with a M6 they just launch way to hard.