The Outlaw Kid

iTrader: (1)

Ok so here's a fun one. I'm trying to remove my k member and on the drivers side motor mount the third bolt (the one closest to the engine), that little bracket that is spot welded on the inside of the k member broke free and just spins, the bolt did come out maybe an 1/8th of an inch so its not flush. I've tried to air hammer through the bolt with no luck. I tried to tack weld it back to the k member (I AM NOT A GOOD WELDOR AT ALL, just wanted to point that out.) still no luck. Not enough room to get my cutoff wheel in to the "nut". I doubt I have enough room to reach the head of the bolt and cut that off.

Anybody have any ideas? I can't have the only car where that broke free. If you guys think I should post this in the suspension section let me know and I copy it there.

Also by chance does anyone know if UMI will be have a sale on k members? lol

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

kmember still in place or is it out off the car?

The Outlaw Kid

iTrader: (1)

Still on the car sorry. I'm leaving the engine in if I can. I don't have the room to pull it out.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

why don't you take out the two main motormount bolts instead of the bolts that hold the motormounts to the kmember?

The Outlaw Kid

iTrader: (1)

On the drivers side the main motor mount bolt seems like it will hit one of the bolts holding the mount to the block. I'm not sure if all of the cars are like this or not. I've never had that bolt out. If that is normal then will it have enough room to clear. It may back out enough to get a cutoff wheel in to the head.

The bolt that goes to the block seems like it will hit the main motor mount bolt if I try to take it off first. I might just be crazy on this one though.

The Pass side seems like the main bolt will come out easier though.

stevo9389

You might not be crazy on the driver side motor mount bolt. I think I had the same situation years ago and got around it by reversing the position of the bolt so the nut would face that bolt on the block for easier removal later.

The Outlaw Kid

iTrader: (1)

That's my plan for install. But for removal did the mount have to be twisted when it was off or is there enough room to remove that bolt.

shbox

IIRC, you can raise or lower the rear of the engine to allow the motor mount through bolt to clear the bolt in the block.

The Outlaw Kid

iTrader: (1)

Should I place a 2x6 on the oil pan and lift the motor up or is there a different way that you know of? I've had to lift the oil pan like that before so it doesn't scare me if I need to. Should I undo the trans mount to try this?

shbox

You would have to disconnect the trans mount and lift from there to get any kind of movement, because you are trying to get it to pivot at the motor mounts.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

For future reference:
I'm swapping out the poly mounts in my 95 TA and ran into the bolt problem you mentioned. I have a tubular k-member and Mac mid-length headers. Shbox is correct, in my case I wrapped a nylon ratchet strap around all 4 header tubes and lifted just the driver side with a cherry picker. Once it was up less than an inch the long bolt came out almost by hand. If you lift the engine just right it will come in and go out by hand. I'm going to use the passenger mount bracket itself with the nylon strap.

I did not undo the trans mount, and I'm swapping the engine mounts one side at a time.

The Outlaw Kid

iTrader: (1)

I finally got this along time ago. I just slid a peice of wood under the oil pan a lifted it with a jack a liitle. I was able to get the through bolts out then.

V8 Supra Builder

iTrader: (37)

The driver side was a breeze on my car, the passenger side was a hassle. I could not get the 4 mounting bolts lined up, and the long bolt had to be driven out & in no matter how I jacked the engine. I ended up using a short chain to hook to the passenger mount bracket & the cherry picker.

I was surprised at how much vibration remained after installing the stock rubber mounts, but I see there are a number of threads here about the vibration. My '95 Vette does not do this, but it is unmodified. The TA has a 383 w/ Eagle rotating assembly, but it was all balanced (including clutch) when it was rebuilt.