demonsmokr

Is the 2 recessed screws holding the cap on. The E4 external torx screws.

After replacing the opti harness, in not getting a new code, only the crank sensor.

I really don't think the unit is bad, but I'm not sure about anything right now.

I'm going to wait to see what the tech says tomorrow and go from there. He's pretty good with every other motor, but these LT1s aren't well known. So i hope he doesn't get stumped.

If he's stumped, then what? Haha! I don't want to think about it.

I'm going over all worst case scenarios. But everything was working *ok* before all this. Had no major timing issues except at higher rpms when getting on it, had no compression issues, or anything like that.

I should've left the god damn opti alone and just did the wires, plugs, and water pump.

What about the starter? It sounds crazy, but i replaced my dad's starter on his Nissan xterra, it was running rough before, had a slight miss, but after the starter all is well. It's been running better than when he first got it.

Would a bad starter cause any issues?

Heres what's going on best i can describe. I go to start, it struggles to crank bad, kinda sounds like a compression issue. It doesn't start. I go to stay the second time, it cranks just fine, fires up, but runs rough. I have to keep the throttle open, about 1.5-2k rpms to keep it running. Runs rough entire time in on throttle, through entire range. Crank code doesn't come on right away, usually after i get it running 2 or 3 times AFTER clearing the code each time it pops up.

It'll struggle to crank once and won't start. Sometimes struggles twice, but never struggles 3 times in a row. Always the third attempt will crank smooth, fire up fine, but run like ****.

What wire set should i get to go over the valve covers?

Vicious95Z28

iTrader: (1)

What do the plugs look like now? I'm wondering if they're black and gas fouled, etc? Does it seem to be running rich? What does the ect say, does it think it's super cold and throwing tons of fuel at the engine? You obviously had the coolant system drained, sometimes weird stuff happens to sensors.

hrcslam

I'd take the Opti out, open it up and install the Rotor back on. Do the same with the old one. Line up both rotors to the same spot and compare the slot on the drive side. They should be exactly the same. If they are not exactly the same, the new one is clocked wrong and will cause every issue you described. If that is the case, take the old one, install all the new parts from the new one on the old one (only if the bearing and seal on the old one are still good, obviously). Install the New old one. Then take all the parts from the old one, install those on the new one, and return it as defective (because in this case it is).

You CAN install the opti onto the wrong slot to the cam. If the opti doesn't slide completely on by hand it's in the wrong slot. But IIRC, that would cause it not to run at all, or barely if it did.

hrcslam

The cranking could be the timing is so far off it's forcing the cylinders down as the crank is pushing them up. Could also be the starter is going out. But, in either case it should have zero effect on the engine once it's running.

This sounds like either the opti was installed on the wrong groove or the unit was pressed together off position. As in the position of the drive side on the opti (that interfaces with the Cam) and the position of the rotor are not clocked correctly when they reassembled the unit. I've seen this happen before.

A couple other things to look for. The intake elbow between the MAF and TB, if it's leaking anywhere it'll run like crap. An easy way to check this is to disconnect the MAF. It'll force SD mode and if it runs smoother, you have a bad MAF or you have a leak between the MAF and TB (or even after the TB).

demonsmokr

Spark plugs are indeed fouled up pretty good already. I've check 6, didn't remove starter for #8 and 6.

I'll reassemble the old opti tonight, well the rotor and wheel thingy anyways and compare with the new gear tomorrow after the interview. By then, the mechanic might have news for me, depends if he actually goes in tomorrow and gets on it first thing.

What your describe about the timing seems right. I'm 90% sure we got the opti installed right. We double checked, it slid on by hand easy. We were extremely careful with that. But as with everything right now, I'm not ruling any possibilities out.

The air intake in good. Well, it doesn't attach to the filter very well, nothing wrong, just the design of it makes it not want to stay together properly, but in getting no air leaks there, but it's also before the MAF so i don't believe that would cause any issues. The rubber elbow has been replaced, it looks newer than everything else. The stupid tune that goes in front if the fans is solid too, snaps in great, holds fine. No cracks, cuts, or anything else like that.

I did try starting fluid once at the house before i took it to the shop. I don't think it was enough to mess with the sensor, but they are sensitive. However, I've gotten no codes for it, but it also hasn't had a drive cycle recorded yet since this has been done.

But I'll check on the MAF tomorrow and try what you suggest.

hrcslam

Good luck on the interview!

BALLSS

OP

is your fuel pressure good?

chaney1974

sorry to hear about all your problems, check out saccitycorvette.com they sell a great American made unit AIP Electronic's 2 yr warranty and is proven by many road racing teams. I bought one cheaper than I could put a MSD cap and rotor on for. I have had mine on my 383 for 2yrs with zero problems and they come with the wire harness, upgrade to a vented opti its only $10 more.

demonsmokr

Don't know yet. I fudged up. Been working 430pm-3am, got home at 4am, had the interview at 8am, but couldn't stay awake. I passed out while drinking a Starbucks energy coffee thing. Didn't wake up until 10am. Called them, they weren't happy, but understood my situation. "We'll be in touch" dammit. Was gonna be a good job, maybe I'll still get a chance.

**** happens.

About the car now, this morning the tech had to finish installing a transmission on a 99 Trans Am. I tried to convince them to just swap the whole k-member and all into my car, but they said no.

So, tech hasn't been able to get to it yet today. He should have time this afternoon maybe. If we can't figure something out by Saturday, manager said i gotta get my car out.

Tomorrow i go on from 12pm-830pm, so won't have time to stop and help, but will Saturday.

No new info for today, I'll post back as soon as i here something.

demonsmokr

******* opti unit. That's what the tech thinks is the problem.

He's going to check fuel pressure today, they got swamped today and yesterday. I get to work on the car after hours this weekend, but it's gotta be out of the shop Sunday night.

Where can i get another unit quick?

Will take too long through amazon. Should i try a different brand? My gut says no, to send all the parts back, wait for refund and get the MSD unit.

Since all the acdelco are reman, I'm kinda skeptical.

Either way, I'm replacing the wires and going over the valve cover, what brand should i use?

Should i attempt the msd unit?

I'm also going to replace the spark plug i dropped too.

I'll wait for you guy's response before i start ordering **** again.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

First you should try putting a good cap/rotor on your old (possibly working?) opti and see if that solves the issue. I have the MSD and it works well, I would go that route otherwise or throw the dice on another AC Delco replacement if your feeling lucky. Just make sure you hook up the improved venting design if you go with the MSD. I would also get some MSD wires and get the universal cut the wires yourself kit for the OTVC conversion.

Or you can wait a couple weeks for somebody to pre-cut them: http://www.nastyperformance.com/shop...nductor-wires/

BTC

In my opinion, the optical sensor is the most important component. AC Delco and Delphi, to my knowledge, are the only brands utilizing that sensor.

hrcslam

Did you do the comparison check I mentioned?

demonsmokr

Not yet, i haven't had time to go to his shop and remove it. But, with everything being installed right, firing order right, blah blah, the only thing left is the unit itself. Right?

Like i said before, the box wasnt treated very well.

My old unit was wet, lots of gunk on the inside, plus i dropped the wheel thingy. I don't trust it.

I'm sending everything back, summit has reman acdelco for 375ish, i was gonna try that. Amazon doesn't have anymore in stock, ships within 1-2 months.

Summit I'll get by Wednesday. I'm trying to find one locally at a dealer, maybe my buddy's shop can get a discount.

We'll see. I'll post back.

demonsmokr

That's what i feel too. **** it, gotta bite the bullet.

hrcslam

You can assemble 1 good unit from the best parts you have available right now and use that in your car. Then you take all the bad parts, put them together and get your refund, especially if the unit was pressed together wrong. It's a defective unit if it was assembled wrong and any parts they get back (good or bad) won't change the operation of the unit. If your old unit has a Mitsubishi Logo on the optical sensor, use that over anything else. At a minimum keep that as a spare. Those Mitsubishi units rarely, if ever, fail. They usually only need cleaned.

BTC

As has been suggested, and unless you absolutely know it's bad, I would try your old opti to see what happens.

demonsmokr

We had the unit installed wrong.....



Apparently you can easily install it out of the groove altogether. We could see where the pin was pressed up against the bank side of the unit. Right next to where it was supposed to go.

We first noticed it was of from TDC by removing the cap, the rotor was just passed #1 when it should've been right on it. So it would've been sparking either at the beginning of the compression stroke, or way too soon.

Anyways, we reinstalled, verifying it was indeed correct with the cap off. We installed or wrong on purpose and the rotor had quite a bit of slack in it, installed right, no slack at all. We couldn't get the pin in the other slots, but only tried for like 5 minutes, i think they just small enough to not let them in, or we didn't have it lined up. Once we could move the rotor, we knew for sure it was in the right spot.

So, with the watery pump off, MAF hooked up, smog pump too, it's cranking over fine. Cranks like it did before the party started. But no start at all.

We're getting spark verified with a test light, wires are correct, fuel pressure is good, but we're not starting.

Spark looks weak on the light. Coil is new, but BWD, no one had acdelco in stock quick enough. Could that be it?

I'm thinking since it ran before, everything is fine, now that everything is indeed correct, or won't start at all. I think being installed wrong and running might have damaged the unit?

That's the only thing left i guess. I think i got burned on this unit i got from amazon, cap doesn't look right and doesn't have Mitsubishi sensor.

I'm sending it back, getting the more expensive unit from summit and going to ask for extra padding in the boxes.

hrcslam

How'd the cap and rotor look? Misinstalling it can press the rotor and make it rub on the cap, damaging it.

demonsmokr

Exactly what you think it would look like after what you described.

Powdered plastic, or really fine shavings, whatever. What i think was happening was on the first or second hard start, the rotor was way off, and once it settled for the 3rd try, the rotor was almost close.

Anyways, not really sure if i had it installed wrong the first time, or i did it during the third attempt only. You can't really tell if you got it in right without the cap off.

There's no way else to verify is installed right without checking the rotor, this is a bad design. I hope they don't try to burn me on the return. It was sold by Amazon.

Is there a way too determine is installed right prior to starting it? You damage otherwise apparently, i wonder how many people fudged up like this and not realize it going through 2 or 3 units, then buying the acdelco and taking extra care then and just happen to get lucky?

When testing with the cap off, the whole unit sits flush with the mounting surface when your in the recess for the bolts of the Cam sprocket or whatever. When it tries to go in the other slots, it doesn't fit, and doesn't sit flush. But when the pin goes into the recess for the bolts, it indeed sits flush. But it is making contact, so when you tighten it down, it gives it that little extra nudge and ***** everything up.

Bullshit i tell you.