Stiff clutch pedal
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tucson az
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stiff clutch pedal
Hi there so the other day I was driving I was at a red light in neutral when my clutch pedal went hard as a rock! Not sure why it did this. So I proceeded to replace the master,slave and the hydraulic line for my clutch wasn't sure when it was done last since im the new owner of the car. Doing all that was a pain as well!!! Hahah anyways so I did that and I still have the same issue and I can't seem to figure out why. Any ideas anyone?? Please feel free to private message ms or post on here would really love some insight on this thank you!
#2
TECH Addict
Hi there so the other day I was driving I was at a red light in neutral when my clutch pedal went hard as a rock! Not sure why it did this. So I proceeded to replace the master,slave and the hydraulic line for my clutch wasn't sure when it was done last since im the new owner of the car. Doing all that was a pain as well!!! Hahah anyways so I did that and I still have the same issue and I can't seem to figure out why. Any ideas anyone?? Please feel free to private message ms or post on here would really love some insight on this thank you!
#3
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tucson az
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was just reading some more into it and I think it might be something with my fork. I'm gonna mess around with it some more today cause I noticed there is a lot of play with the fork it moves a bit up and down.
#4
OP
if we are talking about a 94-97 "pull" type clutch and you have already replaced hydraulics you need to pull tranny.
the fork will have some movement to it with the slave removed. when you put the new slave in did you leave the plastic straps in place and did they break on the first time you pushed clutch in? (they should)
you likely need to pull clutch and inspect for any broken disc springs of FY pressure plate
when clutch fork breaks or TO bearing lip tear back the clutch peal usually still goes down...just no clutch disengagement....
is there any sound coming from clutch area?
if we are talking about a 94-97 "pull" type clutch and you have already replaced hydraulics you need to pull tranny.
the fork will have some movement to it with the slave removed. when you put the new slave in did you leave the plastic straps in place and did they break on the first time you pushed clutch in? (they should)
you likely need to pull clutch and inspect for any broken disc springs of FY pressure plate
when clutch fork breaks or TO bearing lip tear back the clutch peal usually still goes down...just no clutch disengagement....
is there any sound coming from clutch area?
#5
I second *****...looks like the trans is coming out. You might as well order a pilot bearing, TOB, FW bolts, trans fluid right off the bat.
Then when everything is out, look at what happened. May be getting a new clutch.
Then when everything is out, look at what happened. May be getting a new clutch.
#6
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tucson az
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I'm just about to pull the transmission right now actually haha and its somewhat separated from the Bell housing and it looks like the the lip of the throwout bearing is sheared off. I can't get it completely departed but I also see damage to the pressure plate on the edge of it. The owner prior to me says its a has a stage 2 clutch but after what other crap i have been through with this damn car I doubt that's true haha. Any helpful tips or tricks to get the tranny out?
#7
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
You pulled the clutch fork away from the TB? If so then you can use a jack to steady it as you pull it out, or put the car high enough on jackstands where you can get under the trans and benchpress it out.
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Addict
No, you pull that fork out radially (away from the transmission input shaft) and aft (towards the rear of the transmission) at the same time. It'll pop out towards where the slave cylinder goes.
#10
Pull out on the clutch fork to disengage it from the TOB which is fastened to the pressure plate fingers. If you don't you are trying to pull the TOB through the PP fingers and you won't win lol
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tucson az
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright I'll give that a shot today after work. Still have to do the 9-5 to support this damn car haah. One other question is it looks likes its bolted to the tranny and its seems to just pivot in place. Was in just not using enough force?
#12
Correct. The bolt stays there and you yank out on the fork to disengage it from the TOB. Once you do it will feel a lot more loose/freedom to move around.
Slide the transmission back in, yank on the clutch fork, then you can pull the trans (and fork) out all together. It will all make sense when you pull it out to see how it all works.
This is from when I took mine out couple weeks ago.
Clutch fork still bolted to the trans but "pulled out":
TOB retained into PP fingers. The fork fingers fit in between the two flat "flanges" you see here. This view faces rearward in the vehice. The "snap ring" is what holds the TOB in the PP fingers:
This view faced forward/the FW side:
Hope those pics help. I have read horror stories of people not being able to get the trans out and it's the one little step of pulling out on the clutch fork that allows you to. If I had no researched and asked around, I never would have thought to do it. I did a clutch in a 04 GTO, a 99 Cobra. The camaro is a hybrid between a "hydraulic and mechanical" setup.
Slide the transmission back in, yank on the clutch fork, then you can pull the trans (and fork) out all together. It will all make sense when you pull it out to see how it all works.
This is from when I took mine out couple weeks ago.
Clutch fork still bolted to the trans but "pulled out":
TOB retained into PP fingers. The fork fingers fit in between the two flat "flanges" you see here. This view faces rearward in the vehice. The "snap ring" is what holds the TOB in the PP fingers:
This view faced forward/the FW side:
Hope those pics help. I have read horror stories of people not being able to get the trans out and it's the one little step of pulling out on the clutch fork that allows you to. If I had no researched and asked around, I never would have thought to do it. I did a clutch in a 04 GTO, a 99 Cobra. The camaro is a hybrid between a "hydraulic and mechanical" setup.
Last edited by smitty2919; 02-11-2016 at 09:54 AM.
#13
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tucson az
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Smitty your a life saver!!!! The pictures say a everything I need to know. I appreciate it very much im gonna get it out hopefully tonight and update with pictures to show my TOB separation
#15
thanks x2, those are great pics!
im going to have to do this next month, and forgot how it all fit together. last one i did was the later t56 with the hyd. throwout bearing and is totally different. when i did this lt1 job 10+years ago, i only have a vague memory of getting drunk and pissed off, and breaking the fork.
im going to have to do this next month, and forgot how it all fit together. last one i did was the later t56 with the hyd. throwout bearing and is totally different. when i did this lt1 job 10+years ago, i only have a vague memory of getting drunk and pissed off, and breaking the fork.
#16
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tucson az
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry about the late respone!!! life decided to get in the way lol so as you can see the TOB almost completely sheared off where the fork sits AND her'
es the kicker there wasn't a pilot bearing in the car either!!! luckily found one locally so in the process of putting it back together
es the kicker there wasn't a pilot bearing in the car either!!! luckily found one locally so in the process of putting it back together
#17
TECH Addict
No pilot bearing? Wow. Makes for easy removal though! Those can be a major pain to remove. I'd recommend the Pilot bushing, not bearing. The bushings are easier to remove.
#18
Teching In
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tucson az
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Its a little late for that hahaha its already in! Thank you though I might need it for future reference. But ya no bearing. You would be surprised wjh other crap I have ran into with this car. Its like the previous owner just said screw it and threw it back together
#19
FWIW Tremac advises using a pilot "bearing" vs bushing. Can you use either, yes.
if a bearing does get trashed...the "why" needs to be resolved (front main shaft bearing) or it will happen again. A bushing is made of bronze which is softer metal than the input shaft so it wears vs a bearing
whatever you use, always a good idea to replace when doing a clutch swap that has a bunch of miles on it
if a bearing does get trashed...the "why" needs to be resolved (front main shaft bearing) or it will happen again. A bushing is made of bronze which is softer metal than the input shaft so it wears vs a bearing
whatever you use, always a good idea to replace when doing a clutch swap that has a bunch of miles on it