Arsalan Yazdani Ford

hello everyone
i have a 1997 z28 and its my daily drive...
gonna to do some work on the car to run better

here is my mods :

1-ported and polished stock aluminium heads

2-stand alone ecm wasted spark (deleted opti)

3- 12 bolt diff

in our country drag race , we have the best time 12.50 in 1\4 for N\A V8's !! i know that's ***! i have to mention that اhere is 4600 foot height from sea level.
but i want to hit the record , so your help is best chance for me


this is what is in my mind , give me your opinion about them:

1- 3.73 or 4.10 diff ratio

2- 2800 or 3200 stall converter

3-LT headers 1 7\8 or 1 3\4

4-high revving cam like 25x\26x (any suggestion?)

5- 58mm TB

6- 13-13.5 Compression ratio ( does it work with 93 octane?)

7- stock block and have everything balanced , do i need arp main and rod bolts ?

8-water methanol injection

9- 1.6 or 1.7 rocker arms

10-stiffer valve springs

11-TransGo Performance Shift Kits 4L60E-HD2

i'm on budget and the car is my daily , so please if you have any other idea about parts (to get some or not ) please tell me.

how much you think i can spin the rpm with HR ?

mention that i can not use nitrous because of rules
i expect 420-430 rwhp from my setup and 11.5x pass

thanks you for reading my post and have a nice day

hrcslam

1- 3.73 or 4.10 diff ratio

Strictly drag car? You'll want too match the gear ratio to the tire size and max rpm through the traps for your target trap speed. So your final drive will depend on your red line rpm and tire size and horsepower and weight.

2- 2800 or 3200 stall converter

Depends on the cam and gears.

3-LT headers 1 7\8 or 1 3\4

1-3/4 should be sufficient and cheaper.

4-high revving cam like 25x\26x (any suggestion?)

Why? You can go much smaller and have better midrange power. 23x/24x @.050 will get you there. Even a bit smaller than that would work. Just remember the bigger you go, the higher the rpms will need to go too. And 23x/24x will be in the 7k range with no power below 2k, and very little before 3k.

5- 58mm TB

Not needed. I'm stock pushing 400+rwhp. 52 should do good if you want more.

6- 13-13.5 Compression ratio ( does it work with 93 octane?)

Sure, with a big *** cam. Or you can shoot for 11.5-12.5:1 and use a smaller cam and keep the rpms at 7k red line.

7- stock block and have everything balanced , do i need arp main and rod bolts ?

Yes. But, I'd go forged rods and pistons though.

8-water methanol injection

Not needed if you're not running boost.

9- 1.6 or 1.7 rocker arms

1.6


10-stiffer valve springs

Lunati 73925k5 will handle just about any cam you throw at em. It's a complete kit.

11-TransGo Performance Shift Kits 4L60E-HD2

I ran this kit before. Works as advertised.

i'm on budget and the car is my daily , so please if you have any other idea about parts (to get some or not ) please tell me.



how much you think i can spin the rpm with HR ?

I spin mine to 6800 with the stock hydraulic lifters. Others have gone higher. I do have a set of LS7 lifters in my garage ready to go in, but haven't put them in yet. Just waiting for a good reason to throw them in. I'd do 7k rpm l, it I'm running SA RR and don't want to risk it without seeing what it's doing on a dyno or going NSA.

Arsalan Yazdani Ford

hrcslam thanks for your time and reply

i founded hookers set for 570$ and pacesetter for 300$ , does them have big difference? don't care about how they look , just the performance


any suggestion? i've seen many people used cc306 or cc503 , but i don't think they can reach me to the 400+ rwhp with my setup ... which cam would you choose if you were me??



how about the exhust ? dual 3" ? single 4"? or just go stock

here is some pics of my ride

No optispark , no mass and happy

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

Neato

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

I hate to be the one to say it but it's not possible to have a n/a stock cube daily driver LT1 that runs mid 11's at 4600ft elevation. Building up an n/a car to meet that et goal (10's in the 1/4 at sea level) is the easy part. The hard/impossible part is making it dd worthy and doing it within a tight budget.

The fact that the car is a daily driver is going to work directly against you in making a "racing version LT1". Also, you said you are on a budget so that will really dictate what you can or cannot do. For a car that is daily driven, I'd keep the intake duration on the cam below 230 degrees for a 350-355ci motor unless you want to hate driving the car every day. I'd personally never run a cam over mid 220's intake duration on a daily but that is just me. Like stated above, gear and converter choice will depend on cam. For a daily I definitely wouldn't want more than a 3.73 gear in an auto or more than a 3600 stall and even that would be pushing it IMO.

Here's my basic setup that runs mid 11's at 118-119mph in 1000ish DA. I have opportunity areas that I could address to make the car faster but it's not high on my priority list. My car is not a daily driver but it's not anywhere close to a race car either.

Stock untouched bottom end
Stock ported heads
Stock ported intake manifold
58mm TB
224/230 .570's lift 107lsa cam
Yank PT4000 converter
3.73 gears
Some suspension work i.e. lca's, relocation brackets
1-3/4" LT headers into an x-pipe

I've driven my car to work on occasion (54 mile round trip) but I would never want to daily the thing. You said you are on a budget so I'd leave the bottom end alone unless it actually needs a rebuild. I'd also do a ton of research to make sure you are buying effective parts instead of wasting money on something that won't provide a realistic gain. Good luck in your endeavor!

hrcslam

I agree, shooting for 11's at high elevation AND making it DD is difficult and becomes even harder on a budget. See my sig for my build details. I daily my car 110 miles every day, round trip. My cam is about the biggest you could go on a stock cubed motor and still daily drive it. If the cam is smaller than mine and it's not daily driver friendly, it's either in the tune or in the transmission.

At your elevation, if you never plan on bringing the car to lower DA's. You could shoot for higher compression ratio's. But, it's not going to get you very much more power.

hrcslam

Very clean car you have there.

As far as headers, they all perform the same. It's how well they fit and how long they last where the additional cost comes in.

For the rest of your exhaust, either dual 2.75 or 3" or single 3.5-4" will work. What ever you prefer.

The power is in the heads really. It really depends on how well the heads flow. You can hit 400rwhp on a CC306, but you'll need the heads to get you there. The CC306 is kind of a lazy lobed cam though vs a custom grind. And you wont hit 400rwhp at 4600 feet. It'll be 400rwhp SAE corrected.

Who did the head work? Do you have flow sheets or data?

Arsalan Yazdani Ford

sorry ,didn't get that

honestly i know that , but i want to my best

maybe 40-50 miles for a day , i did the math , with my tire diameter (25.6)
i am good to go with 4.10, but maybe a 2800 TC is best for me

maybe an overhaul , new piston rings with wider second ring gap and clevite bearings , new oil pump and etc...

yes, i'm researching for a long time and it really helped me

thank's for sharing your setup



actually in last 4 years , our country money is about 4:1 to $
for example i bought my car for 30.000$ ! and my salary is 300$ per month !! but i don't care if my setup for my goal is going to be a little more expensive , i could wait and save more...


my worry is that we don't have dyno and we have to do the tune with Gtech and wideband and knock sensors

No i have to deal with this elevation...
maybe a dynamic 12:1 won't be bad , i'm not worry about detonation cuse i can make a water methanol injection system for about 30$ !

thank you ! it had 30k miles when i bought it , now has about 60k

did a research , pacesetter will fit directly with no problem , but the longevity...

maybe dual 3" to 4" Y-pipe would be best fitting

just myself ... unfortunately nothing , just some pics

i know they are not best , but i can do some more porting job on the heads

Arsalan Yazdani Ford

here is a video of stock corvette c7 stingray hitting 12.92 with stock tires in our drag race

http://www.aparat.com/v/mACsQ/%D8%B4...D8%B1%DA%AF_18

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

With an automatic car the converter is money. The right converter will really help with et and getting out of the hole which is going to be key for you. I wouldn't go with a 2800, I would go a minimum of 3200 without question. My buddy has a Yank SS3200 and it's very tame. It would be a killer for a daily driver while also performing very well at the track. Since you are daily driving the car I would recommend a high quality 3200-3400 or maybe just maybe a 3600 if it's a real tight converter like the Yank SS series or comparable. Cam choice will definitely dictate what will be appropriate but I think that's a good target range you should consider.

I'd really recommend not going with 4.10 gears. The rpm's will be annoying when cruising down the highway and first gear will be real short. Not sure what gears you have now but 3.42's would be perfect for a daily IMO with 3.73's being borderline too much, again IMO.

When I was a teenager I daily drove my car with a Yank SS3600 and 3.73's and it was a stout street setup. As I get closer to 30 I am getting more tame in my tastes and tolerances haha so a little less than that is really more reasonable and just perfect IMO. Just don't do your car an injustice and go too small on the converter. Hope that helps.

NewOrleansLT1

What country are you from? I love seeing F Bodies overseas..

Arsalan Yazdani Ford

you are right about TC
I'm tempted to buy a 3600
unfortunately i don't have experience about converters , what is a difference between a cheap and expensive TC expect anti ballooning plate and lockup option? i heard the anti ballooning plate is just a advertising and do nothing

http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...3110/overview/

how it is? any suggestion for a cheaper one?


here is a true story of mine

i had 4 different final ratios on the car... 2.28 - 2.73(stock) - 3.08 - 3.73

one of my friends had a M-benz c350 2012

in our first test with 2.28 from 30mph roll i could beat him by one car

in our second test with 3.73 from same roll , i could beat him by just one fender

and i don't know why !

one more thing , how much do you trust on GPS acceleration meters?
last night i did 0-60 in 6.01 and 1/4 mile in 14.00@90mph in first run
and the second run was 0-60 in 6.00 and 1/4 mile 13.97@91mph

i did 15.15 @ 87mph when i bought the car and was completely stock plus reaction time

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

The thread linked below will do a good job illustrating the difference between good converter and a cheap not so good one. A good converter will run $700+ new but it's not a place to skimp. The single biggest gain in 1/4 mile ET you will realize with your car will be from the converter alone, you can expect to shave about a half second with one in the 3200+ range assuming you get traction.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...education.html

Yank, Circle D, FTI, Vigilante make some high quality proven units for our cars.

Arsalan Yazdani Ford

i'm from Iran (persia)
most people when hear Iran acts in 3 different ways !
1- they don't know us and they think we are arabs
2- they heard something in TV about us and they think we are terrorists !
3-they had persian friends and happily they liked them most of the time

everywhere have good and bad people , but believe me no one wants to be here ! i'm planing to escape as soon as possible

here is like the hell for car guys...if you have a little expensive or classic car , the police stops you everywhere for nothing , if your car have exhaust sound , they will stop the car for 3-6 months and give expensive tickets ...
fuel octane in the best chance is about 83 !!!
the websites will not ship parts here , we have to buy parts and ship them to another countries if you have friends there , and they ship it again to your country... mentioned that , a 300-400$ part is cost a full month salary here
we are not allowed to import american cars , and most of them belongs to 1970-1990
my car is illegally imported and the number plates belongs to a 1988 chevrolet ... if they found out , in the best way , i will go to jail for about 3 years and have to pay about 100.000$


don't want to explain everything , but believe me no one likes to be here



here is a pic of me and my ride



and the another and only 4th gen camaros (illegally imported !)

Arsalan Yazdani Ford

thank's for the link , it was really helpful



hmmmm lets forget daily drive ! i've another car , will make it daily


the final setup would be :
-transgo hd2 kit
-4000 stall converter ( poor 4l60e)
-1 3/4 pacesetter headers
-4" downpipe
- 12.5-13:1 CR (with pistons)
-1.6 rr
-58mm tb ( still confused about that , i've read they can gain 17-18 rwhp and 52mm gain up about 10-11 rwhp)
-arp main and rod bolts
-overhaul bottom end
-valve springs

did i forgot something?

i have to deal with stock rods

so , we have 3 choices for the cam right here

1-LUN-XXX08240HR

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 240 int./252 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.554 int./0.554 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 108
Basic Operating RPM Range: 3,000-6,200
104 degree intake centerline

2-CCA-07-468-8

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 242 int./248 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.584 int./0.579 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 113
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,200-6,200

3-LUN-20080562

Duration at 050 inch Lift: 242 int./252 exh.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.525 int./0.540 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110/106
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,200-6,800


and 2 choice for final ratio :

-3.73
-4.10

how about the third cam and 4.10 combo ?

cuisinartvette

You should move to Glendale Car the persian/armenian population is VERY strong there. Youd have to tame your build down to pass smog or sell it befor eyou come over

IMO if youre headed towards the 240ish @050 cams and up just put a solid roller in it youre better off. Dont be afraidof the horror stories.
Use a good quality bushed lifter (not needle bearings) springs studs etc youll be fine. You wontt believe how they perform up top in comparison. Plus they sound killer through the exhaust.

HellTeeOne

Number 3 is my experience, I've found Persians to be very smart, cultured, nice people. Unfortunately, our leaders here in America have too many people here convinced of the first 2 for a lot of reasons, all of them stupid. Anyone that has read much history knows there is a HUGE cultural difference between Arabs and Persians.

As far as your build, I don't think anyone bothered to ask the current condition and mileage of your bottom end. If it's in good shape, you could just go with a good set of ported heads and a nice cam & valvetrain and run it on the stock bottom. You can achieve mid 11s compression pretty easily with a .026 head gasket and perhaps milling the heads, but even that is sort of questionable on poor quality gasoline.

A lot of folks have done builds like this and successfully run mid-to-low 11s at or near sea level. 4600' is another story. Your drivetrain choice sounds pretty good.

steveo_

i can't believe you manage to maintain such a clean and well modified car out there. i've known some iranians and what they've gone through. so awesome

anyway i think the key to your goal is building it to rev really high. you have thin air, so you have to move more of it, and with N/A, that's displacement or RPM.

NewOrleansLT1

The gas and lack of a quality tune might hold you back..

Arsalan Yazdani Ford

thank you for the advice !
how much you think the solid rr could be effective ? cuse they are not cheap , about 400$
what is the differences between needle bearings and bushed?
and is that rocker arms studs necessary ?


you really made me feel happy because of your opinion
i think my bottom end needs a new set of piston rings , but the block is really healthy
my dynamic compression ratio will fall of because of the cam lobe , so i need a static CR close to 14:1 to keep the dynamic compression about 12:1
i founded speed pro -11cc pistons for about 300$ , does them have good quality ?
the water methanol can let me to use pump gas


thank you !
we have some really good cars here ! if you are interested , you can see some of them in following links :

https://www.instagram.com/american__v8/

https://www.instagram.com/americanmuscle_car/

https://www.instagram.com/american.car/

yeah , i prefer to build an high rev lt1 versus cu's
but for choosing the right cam for my setup to hit 8k , i think i have to search more and more , or use helping someone that have the similar setup

you are right
i can use water methanol injection for octane , but about the tune...
i have to use a performance meter like g-tech , and tune the car in streets like crazy