CaptainArbitrage

Hello everyone, I've done quite a bit of searching but haven't come up with an answer to my question.

I ended up having to take my 94 Z28 M6 to a shop to get the clutch issue diagnosed. They have told me that it at least needs a new clutch, and they'll replace it for about $550, labor included. Now this is an OE replacement clutch and I'm wondering if this will be acceptable for my car's goals.

The car is bone-stock right now and I'm looking to hit maybe 300rwhp with full bolt-ons. I don't really have the interest in doing more to the car than that. Is there anyone who has been running an OE replacement clutch with a similar level of power without any issue? I don't want to replace this clutch to burn it up or break it again

I'm mostly looking to go with this clutch because it's cheaper (obviously), I loved the street manners of the previous clutch and the shop can have my car done by Tuesday with the OE clutch as opposed to later if I have to order an aftermarket clutch.

They said the flywheel might also need to be resurfaced and I might also need a master and slave cylinder, but they won't know until they dive in.

I'd appreciate any thoughts or comments that you all could provide.

Thanks in advance!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

A stock clutch should work fine unless you are at the track every weekend. If you get a new clutch then you must get a new pressure plate and resurface the flywheel. If you don't and there is uneven wear on the flywheel and pressure plate you'll quickly find yourself in the same boat you are in now. Just like when you replace brake pads you want to ensure the rotors have no grooves, and if they do, replace them or have them turned.

BALLSS

A replacement clutch kit includes PP, disc & T.O. bearing and sometimes a pilot "bushing". IMHO go with the pilot "bearing" which you need to purchase separately. Most any auto part store has them for around $12-$15

If the shop is using some auto part store brand clutch it likely is a LUK. Decent replacement clutch. I would stay with a 5 spring disc vs the cheaper (china) 4 spring discs that some clutch kits have

absolutely have them resurface the FW

Clutch hydraulics come as a sealed unit with MC & slave. You can buy individually either MC or slave but would have to bleed them and while doable the hydraulics are not the easiest to bleed as they have no bleed screw like some other car models.

Complete hydraulics are around $125 so assume the shop marks that up + labor

Clutch kits from most auto part stores are around $225 for something like a LUK kit

the $550 charge from the shop is not bad considering what is involved. It will be more if they have to do the hydraulics also. Yours may be fine but 20+ year old parts don't last forever if it is still the original MC/slave unit

CaptainArbitrage

Thank you both for your comments! I really appreciate it. The shop did say that they are going to essentially be doing exploratory surgery. The owner believes strongly that the issue is the physical clutch but prepared me for an approx. $900 total bill to change the clutch as well as to resurface and change the hydraulics. It looks like I should definitely have the flywheel resurfaced and I might just tell them to go ahead and do the hydraulics too because I have no way of verifying the age of anything. I'd rather not have to do this again. Spend more and have it done right the first time.

I will call him on Tuesday to find out about the parts that he plans on using. I have an Advance Auto and an Autozone right near me, and I could always order from a website if it came to that.

Thanks, again, for the insight. I just don't want to burn up this bad boy. I never go to the track, I only ever really get into it once in a while at a stoplight and I only ever raise the revs once I feel the clutch engage. It makes me slower, I'm sure, but my tires are old and have a hard enough time hooking up even if I launch like that. I'm not sure that I would benefit from a more hardcore clutch unit.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

I put an O'Reillys clutch in my CMC car back in 2014 and it came with a Valeo disc which sounded OEM to me and the PP looked identical to the factory piece that I removed from the car. Still GTG here in 2016 with multiple standing starts on R comps.