derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Alright guys, so I have uploaded a video of my car trying to start. It cranks really slow, and kind of stalls in between. It seems like it has a low battery, but I just put a new one in today and it didnt change anything. My car has been acting like this for a while now, but would usually start. I just pulled my motor for a new cam/stall/gears build and now I cant get it to start up again. I have visually inspected all of my cables and they look good. I cleaned up all of the grounds/connections and made sure they are good, but still no luck. Any idea of why this is happening?

94zrag

iTrader: (3)

I had a problem with slow cranking before. Chased it around for awhile, put in a new battery and 2 starters before I gave up and replaced the battery cables. That fixed it, the cables looked fine on the outside but when I broke them open the inside was completely corroded.
Don't know if that's your problem or not though. Good luck.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Where did you end up buying the cables from? How much?

94zrag

iTrader: (3)

I picked them up at Advance auto. No idea how much, it was like 8-10 years ago.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Right now the only thing I can find from Advance Auto are just the terminal ends and you have to cut and splice the lines, not sure I like the idea. Autozone seems to have a full cable, but seems like its only a single cable to the starter, not sure about the lines to the alt and junction box. I have found the two sites below that sell full kits, but I just hesitate to drop $100+ on these if I dont know for sure its the problem.

http://innovativewiring.com/?page_id=436
http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/batt...rebird-lt1-v8/

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

I also took a video of my starter to see if I noticed anything wrong. It looks as if it is only lining up halfway with the flywheel, but it is still turning over. Even if I shim the starter it wouldn't help the alignment of the wheel.

https://youtu.be/eDGjZ14GHjk

ACE1252

The starter looks loose for one....you can see it moving as it's cranking. Assuming that it has relatively the same compression ratio as stock.....

You have some kind of major current draw issue or low voltage issue the way the lights are going dim.

Did it start fine directly after the new battery with no issues? Your alternator may not be charging the battery if so. What is the battery voltage with the car running? Check it with a voltmeter(multimeter).

I agree with 94 in double checking the wiring to make sure the cable from the battery to the starter is good.

It most certainly appears to be having trouble on the compression strokes. Since it's been doing it for a while and the same thing with a new battery.....if the cables check good, then get a new starter.

The one thing I'm not sure of though....is if something could be going wrong in the automatic to load down the starter as well.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Start prodding around with a volt meter. Because the lights dim so badly when you are trying to start it there isn't enough voltage to the starter, whether it be the battery or the cable. Even if you do have a new battery you should still put it on a charger depending on how long it's been on the shelf. You may have a parasitic draw from some component as well.

scaryeyes

I did have somewhat the same problem. Sometimes..... But it ended up firing back! And it broke the sprag in the starter. Dont know why...
Have measured just 8-9 volts on the solenoid. And thats another problem for me.

cookseyb

Sounds to me like it is WAY out of time and it is kicking back against the starter (too much advance) might want to get your tuner to look into that.

BALLSS

OP

has the motor ever started after the cam swap?

your voltage gauge dives to 0 and you have a "new" battery....I would look into new cables

The ones from Gary @ Innovative Wiring ARE worth every penny

and if your starter turns out to be worn than get the "corvette" starter from Autozone. It is a gear reduction type, smaller, lighter and cheaper than the stock one

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Thanks to all for the responses. I went ahead and ordered the Innovative Wiring because they could get them to me faster. They were delivered the other day and look very nice, planning to put them in this weekend and hopefully she will fire right up after that. I went ahead and ordered the wires for the high output alternator, figured it wouldnt hurt to have fresh new cables and then I am ready for any other electrical mods down the road. I will keep you posted on how things turn out.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I swapped the cables out yesterday. (side note, the cables from Innovative Wiring are very nice!) Everything was hooked up and I tried starting it. It would turn over much better than it did before, it continued to crank while the battery meter slowly went down. Once I turned the key off and then back on, it would go back up to 12 volts. It kind of fired a few times but did not fully start up.

After trying it for a while, then the security light on the dash starting flashing and now it will not even crank when I turn the key. Still have full power to everything, but will not crank. I have 2 different spares and tried all 3 and they all do the same. I had the VATS disabled in my tune from PCMforless just recently, but now I am researching the VATS bypass. Any thoughts from you guys?

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

So I tested all three keys with a multimeter and the resistance was .73 on each one. I have tried to test the connector that goes back to the key lock cylinder but could never get a read on it, even with the key turned on. Does that mean that my lock cylinder is bad? I have done many searches on the VATS system but pretty much everything is written about the bypass. Trying to figure this thing out but I hate electrical sh*t.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

I went ahead and posted about this in the electronics section since it seems to be more appropriate given that this has turned into a VATS post. https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...l#post19396812 Once I get that figured out, if I still have problems with the cranking I will come back to this post.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Probably because you've zapped all the voltage out of the battery with the continuous cranking. You need to charge that battery ASAP before you kill that one now. After killing a battery for the first time you've significantly reduced its life span unless it's a dry cell like an Optima.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

The battery is a new optima and it didnt die during the process. I did hook it up to a charger though.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I'm not saying it dieded completely. What I'm saying is after cranking the engine long enough you eventually only had just enough voltage to power your lights/accessories, but not enough to engage the starter.

derekstl

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so I was able to fix one of my issues with a VATS bypass with the help of WhiteBird in the electronics area of the forum. (https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...l#post19401840)

Now back to my previous problem, the car is cranking over now, but still won't start. I think I might go ahead and pull my starter and have it tested.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

That's not your starter. The lights are dimming when the starter starts to die. That is a pretty clear indication there is not enough voltage to turn the starter over. Have you put a volt meter on the battery to see what the readings are while you are starting as well as when there is no draw on it?