LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

What scanner shows IAC and TPS

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Old 11-30-2016, 02:23 AM
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Default What scanner shows IAC and TPS

Finally got my firebird to idle but I cant release the clutch in first or reverse.

I need a scanner to dial in the IAC and TPS. I see this autolink scanner does livedata but only shows TPS %. Another app I've seen easydiag shows IAC but i cant tell if it shows TPS % also. No idea about the torque app but when I downloaded it I didnt find anything


Does anyone have a for sure way to check these? car is a 97 obd2
Old 11-30-2016, 10:56 AM
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Also one thing I have a question about. With my old cam in I was able to just slowly let off the clutch and it would catch and I would be able to go. I notice on Lloyd Elliots page his smallest cam is listed with Idle-5800 RPM. However the 224/230 cam that I put in is listed at 1700-6100 RPM. So what is the 1700? Is that suppose to be like the minimum take off speed or something? This would explain why the car would stall on me now when I try to take off by just letting the clutch out.
Old 11-30-2016, 11:10 AM
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the RPM range noted with various cams refers to the RPM range they make power. While cams larger than stock typically require a slightly higher RPM to idle right...this is not related to how high a RPM you need to be to release clutch
Old 11-30-2016, 12:34 PM
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Ok currently the car idles at 1000rpm on a cold start. I have a bluetooth obd2 scan hook up coming later today and I will use the Torque app that I'm told should show both IAC and TPS. So hopefully its just those need to be dialed in exactly to get this car able to drive
Old 11-30-2016, 08:34 PM
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What cam did you put in it? Any other parts changed with it?
Old 11-30-2016, 09:34 PM
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Cam is specced by Lloyd Elliot its the 224/230 one he has listed on his site. Also Sent my heads to be ported by him and did the whole LE1 package. Also got 30# injectors, Lunati rockers, Lunati lifters, and comp cam pushrods. Car also has a Walbro 255 fuel pump
Old 12-01-2016, 10:04 AM
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why would you want to take off just by letting the clutch out without giving it any gas? Just a question, have you ever driven a stick car?
Old 12-01-2016, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by moehorsepower
why would you want to take off just by letting the clutch out without giving it any gas? Just a question, have you ever driven a stick car?
I have but its been awhile. im not talking about taking off from a stop light, I just want to move it around the block. I just remember if i was slow with the clutch it would catch by itself with no gas. idk maybe im a bit intimidated with the new build and trying to get it working, its pretty loud with the open headers in my garage....now i kinda feel dumb
Old 12-01-2016, 03:02 PM
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No, this site is to ask questions, but like you say on a stock car and stock clutch, you can just let out slowly and it will go, but once you start adding on performance products, stock characteristics is out, with some aggressive clutches you have to rev to around 3000 rpm just to avoid clutch chatter, and on cams, if you try to leave at a low RPM, it will be like a bucking horse..welcome to the Hot Rod world..
Old 12-03-2016, 06:48 PM
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EEHack will log both of those and a lot more.
Old 12-04-2016, 04:36 PM
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Is this the cam? -->224/230 .573/.568 112 LSA. – 1700-6100 RPM

Sounds like a PCM tuning issue to me....could be other assembly issues too.

Are you trying to tune it yourself? Is it throwing any codes?

Last edited by ACE1252; 12-04-2016 at 04:41 PM.
Old 12-04-2016, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by ACE1252
Is this the cam? -->224/230 .573/.568 112 LSA. – 1700-6100 RPM

Sounds like a PCM tuning issue to me....could be other assembly issues too.

Are you trying to tune it yourself? Is it throwing any codes?
I had a mail order tune from solomon@LT1pcmtuning.com.

Only code its throwing is P0336 which ive been told by a few doesnt effect how the lt1 engine runs.


Either way ive been able to break in the motor at 2000 rpms with no issue but I cant seem to drive it yet. Car idles fine now but valve train def seems a bit loud to me but its hard to tell with the open headers also.

Also think my batteries dead now since it will only crank with a battery tender on jump start mode. With no battery tender ignition voltage drops from 14 to 1/0. With tender it never drops and cranks over

Last edited by LT1Bird97; 12-04-2016 at 06:44 PM.
Old 12-05-2016, 05:10 PM
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I think im getting close. Idle is a little high still, so ive been slowly closing the throttle blades with the stop screw. One problem I do have tho is on the Torque app scanner the IAC position is at 1. So im not sure if this is the actual count or its just a yes/no sensor im reading.


Was able to drive down in front of my driveway a little bit and then the car stalled out on me, started it back up and reversed it all the way back to its original spot. So idk moved about 20/30ft one way and then got to reverse. I def think I need a new battery since after like 4 starts its completely drained again and needs to be thrown on a charger. Will try and get an updated idle video later today. You guys can tell me if my valves need to be adjusted better or if its suppose to be that noisy.

Last edited by LT1Bird97; 12-05-2016 at 05:24 PM.
Old 12-07-2016, 06:43 PM
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If the battery is dying after 4 starts it sounds like the alternator is not charging it. I would look there first.



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