Baby cam for 383
#41
I would go with the LE cam. It would likely make a little more HP/TQ than the 466. IDK how much more...
I like the 466 in my 383 but if I were choosing a cam today I would go with Lloyd.
I like the 466 in my 383 but if I were choosing a cam today I would go with Lloyd.
#42
They're probably essentially the same. But I'm real impressed with his customer service so far.
#43
11 Second Club
iTrader: (35)
A good friend of mine has had that 466 cam in his stock bottom end LT1 6-speed car with stock gears and a PCMforless mail order tune for probably almost 10 years now. I swear it has absolute stock like drivability, you wouldn't even know the car is cammed unless you stand behind it. Damn good street cam.
I like Lloyd a lot and he knows his stuff so I'd probably go with his choice over the 466 but I'm sure you would be happy with either. I dealt with him 8-9 years ago when I bought my heads/cam/intake package and he was there for me before, during, and after the sale. Really good dude, I hope to do business with him again in the future.
I like Lloyd a lot and he knows his stuff so I'd probably go with his choice over the 466 but I'm sure you would be happy with either. I dealt with him 8-9 years ago when I bought my heads/cam/intake package and he was there for me before, during, and after the sale. Really good dude, I hope to do business with him again in the future.
Last edited by StealthFormula; 12-21-2016 at 08:32 AM.
#44
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
Depending on the application, for cruising speeds, it won't be necessary to spin at a higher RPM if you have "RV Cam-like" torque. For all out power and 1/4 performance there are definitely better cams out there, but as far as one for daily driving/not worried about track times/want to keep stock mannerisms, don't care about lopey idle, want to keep stock, or maybe one step above stock final drive, yet be able to pull a Nebraska Oak out of the frozen ground at 1500 RPM and pass emissions, that cam profile is where it's at. It just depends on personal preference.
#45
Depending on the application, for cruising speeds, it won't be necessary to spin at a higher RPM if you have "RV Cam-like" torque. For all out power and 1/4 performance there are definitely better cams out there, but as far as one for daily driving/not worried about track times/want to keep stock mannerisms, don't care about lopey idle, want to keep stock, or maybe one step above stock final drive, yet be able to pull a Nebraska Oak out of the frozen ground at 1500 RPM and pass emissions, that cam profile is where it's at. It just depends on personal preference.
#46
I'm running a Lunati spec'd by Lloyd - 231*/239* - .579"/.591" - 112* LSA with 4.10 gears and a 3400 rpm stall. I do very little open road driving, so MPG isn't an issue. Driving around town I keep the RPM's up around 2000. It's a little testy when pulling away from a traffic stop, but it gets chugging pretty quick with the gears so it's all good. It chugs along pretty good at the track too. Stick with Lloyd, he won't steer you wrong. BTW - I use Ed Wright for mail tunes and never had a problem.
#47
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
I'm running a Lunati spec'd by Lloyd - 231*/239* - .579"/.591" - 112* LSA with 4.10 gears and a 3400 rpm stall. I do very little open road driving, so MPG isn't an issue. Driving around town I keep the RPM's up around 2000. It's a little testy when pulling away from a traffic stop, but it gets chugging pretty quick with the gears so it's all good. It chugs along pretty good at the track too. Stick with Lloyd, he won't steer you wrong. BTW - I use Ed Wright for mail tunes and never had a problem.
#48
I try to find opportunities to play with her (safely and out of sight from the local constables) so it depends on how often and long my foot is in it, but MPG is somewhere around 20 (well, maybe 17 or 18 ... but that's really not an issue since she spend most a lot of the time in the garage (2000 miles a year, max).
#49
I like small cams for the street... just pulled out a Comp 212/218 on a 118lsa out of my car (20 miles and dyno time)
if the original poster is interested it was a nice setup with smooth idle at 700rpms
if the original poster is interested it was a nice setup with smooth idle at 700rpms
#50
Well guys I spent the month of February researching, tooling up, and doing the cam swap. All I can say is WOW! what a difference. I just finished tuning on the street the last hour and it feels like I'm floating on a magic carpet. I cannot express how life changing this is. For the last 9 years this car has been such a frustration. I've been to 3 dyno tuners, converted to 24x, tried 3 sets of injectors, spark plugs, fuel pressure regulator, doubled the amount of tools in my toolbox, taught myself how to tune over the last 2 1/2 years, hundreds of hours reading LS1tech and HPtuners forums, all to get rid of that damn bucking which apparently was the cam. I wish I had the courage to do this sooner but it seemed so daunting to take the engine apart. I'm really looking forward to tuning this spring.
This is the cam Lloyd sold me: 219/227 .549/.565 114+3 with Lunati's 73925K5 double spring kit (155 lbs on seat, 400 lbs open, .660" lift capability)
This is the cam Lloyd sold me: 219/227 .549/.565 114+3 with Lunati's 73925K5 double spring kit (155 lbs on seat, 400 lbs open, .660" lift capability)