Snow Dog

iTrader: (3)

Just curious as to whether you can resurface the pressure plate the same way you can the flywheel?

I'm gathering parts to rebuild the T56 and this thought crossed my mind since LT1 parts are getting scare in general and the LT1 clutch setup was an odd ball. I'm buying a new replacement clutch kit for the car so this time around it's not an issue. Who knows what the future holds considering only one company makes the pressure plate though.

Thanks

BALLSS

I was told by McLeod that you should not resurface a LT1/4 PP

I suspect the clone LT4 PP every clutch company uses with their kits will be available for quite some time

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

As long as it's flat it can be scuffed, but I don't believe it can be surfaced like a flywheel. If the surface area of the PP has groves then it needs to be replaced.

Snow Dog

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys. I appreciate the feedback. I hope the PP's are available for some time to come. I just ordered an entire kit off Rock Auto for $112 delivered.

BALLSS

If you need more holding power than the organic disc that comes with that $112 kit you bought...you can buy just a dual friction disk from McLeod or some other clutch company. Back when I did a A4-T56 swap I bought a under $200 kit from Autozone and used the McLeod disc

Other than paint color, all clutch companies use the same offshore made PP. Some claim to increase its clamping power by modifying the angle of the fingers of the diaphram

Snow Dog

iTrader: (3)

That's my plan. I'm going with the McLeod 500 series disc which comes in their super street pro kit. The disc is $216 from Summit. I'm also getting a new flywheel insert for the Fidanza for $65. So entire new clutch setup for basically $400. I can live with that, lol.

BALLSS

I always replace the pilot bearing when I do a new clutch. I get a blind hole puller from Autozone "loan-a-tool" thing. Plug & play on removal. I have a short piece of wood closet dowel I use to pound them in

puller is 27128

Snow Dog

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. All of this is in anticipation of the new engine so it'll get a new pilot bearing as well. Transmission is being built up using Tick's Level 2 components also.

BALLSS

if new engine with a "new" crank than there won't be a pilot bearing to remove :-)

I did find my forged Scat stroker crank end hole was .001-2 to large and the pilot bearing could just be pulled out by hand. I had a machine shop "knurl" the outside of the bearing and all was good. You can also use "sizing" material that comes in small sheets of various .xxx thickness also. I found a pack of it at the old school (built in the 30's) hardware store in my town for $5. some also have just used green loc-tite on the bearing to hold it in. Ideally your crank will be fine as is.

Snow Dog

iTrader: (3)

Damn. I'll have to let the shop check that for me then. I'm using a Scat forged stroker crank as well. Thanks for the tip.

BALLSS

Have the shop put in the pilot bearing.....to confirm fitment.

I have read threads where others had similar issues with other brand cranks also. Worst case the machine shop knurls the pilot bearing, they Loc-tite or use sizing material to secure it

I have a T56 and when I got my McLeod Street Twin which came with a Billet FW ....it was "snug" (read would have had to draw it in with bolts) going on the crank so I took emery cloth and massaged the opening on the FW. Took me about 30 min to do by hand & dremal. My point is aftermarket cranks and/or flywheels can be .001-2 over/under relative to pilot bearing or FW/Flexplate mount.

In my case nothing some minor machine work to knurl the pilot and some emery cloth so I was out $20 + my time. Part of the glamour of building cars :-)

Snow Dog

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. I'll keep that info in mind. I'll have to send the machine shop the flywheel for balancing the rotating assembly so they can check the fitment on the crank then.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

My Eagle was like that as well. There are also kevlar bushings available from Summit. The one I received was oversized. Had it ground down to size.

BALLSS

Many, including mine, rebuilt motors are "internal" balanced (rotating assembly) not using the FW or Flexplate as part of the rotating assembly balancing. You then use a "neutral aka zero balance FW or Flexplate. Any replacement FW in the future needs to be simply zero balanced.

If a weighted FW is used in the rotating assembly balance process ( external balance motor) any replacement FW in the future will have to be "matched balanced" to the FW it is replacing (assuming that FW is not neutral balanced)

FWIW I always have a replacement FW checked by a machine shop to confirm it is "zero" balanced (I have a internal balance motor) even if it is advertised as such. My "neutral" balanced FW that came with my McLeod twin was 26 grms off. Sold as a part # for neutral balance. It was the same FW as weighted but without the screw on weight....but the 4 small threaded holes on the FW back amounted to 26 grms of material that was missing. The shop just added a few small screws and washers to three of the 4 holes = 26 grms (pic). It really sucks to go through a whole clutch swap to find you then have a "vibration" caused by an out of balance FW or PP.

Stock external balance motors can just bolt on a standard weighted replacement FW

Snow Dog

iTrader: (3)

I plan to have the engine internally balanced as well. The Fidanza currently has a weight on it since it's behind my stock LT1. I want it zero balanced along with the pressure plate. They'll get the crank pulley and hub as well to ensure everything is balanced properly. I've already got an ASP under drive pulley that I intend to reuse. Which reminds me I need to check with ASP about rebuilding it possibly.

Since we're talking about balancing now. What are your thoughts on putting a key way on the crank hub to make sure it stays put to ensure balance? I'm not going FI so I'm concerned about any future service events that might cause the hub to not go back on in the same position. I'm not worried about it shifting while pressed onto the crank from a blower drive.

Thank you

BALLSS

If I didn't have a ATI damper/hub (keyed) I would have had the stock hub keyed at a machine shop.

The front Damper is (read should be) neutral balanced. The flywheel is weighted (LT1 are rear external balance motors)

If your new motor is internally balanced than yes good idea to have them confirm and re-balance both the damper and your fidenza FW to zero balance. If your Findenza has the screw on weight that, like my McLeod FW, the machine shop likely needs to add a screw or two in the holes to get it dead nuts zero. Then they bolt the PP on with the newly zero balanced FW and zero that out. Every PP I had this done to when putting in a new clutch needed some balance adjustments. There are 3 "ears" (pic) on the plate of a LT1 PP. The shop would drill into them where needed