KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

No....it's not a stupid question.

The additional stroke of the 396 crank requires more metal to be removed from inside of the block, otherwise, the rod bolts will make contact (rotating assembly won't rotate).

If metal is carelessly removed, it's pretty easy to cut into a jacket.

KW

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

It's just the pan rails that are the concern.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Water jackets go all the way to the bottom of the piston to the pan rails, and that is where you have to clearance more on a 396 then a 383. The rod bolts will stick out, and a big rod bolt will need more clearancing on top the extra needed for a longer rod. Real easy to hit on a 396 if you're not careful and pick the wrong parts.

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

For my current SR build, I originally planned a 396, but when I actually tried to buy all the specific parts I wanted for it, some of the advertised parts were not in stock and in some cases no promises of delivery. It was a lot easier 15 years ago, when enough people were building 396 SBC's and all parts were readily available and stocked.
Instead of compromising on parts selection with attendant durability concerns just for the additional 13 cubes, I went 383.
Mine's for road course duty on pump gas.
If you're less picky about the build parameters, then a 396 may work out just fine for you. 210-215cc heads are certainly big enough to support a 396. I'm re-using my 200cc heads, which would have been marginal for a high winding 396.

BTC

So, to accommodate the longer stroke of the 396, you have to remove additional material from the block, in addition to boring the cylinders, that is not necessary when doing a 383? Is that basically the high level gist of it?

I appreciate the explanations.

atlantadan

Golen sometimes does Karl's blocks. He also has a different shop he uses for block machining. My new ERE engine is waiting on a block from said shop since Golen couldn't get it done in time.

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

I stand corrected!

KW

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

Pat.....you gonna ditch the opti and go 24x?

KW

BALLSS

For a 383 or 396 you bore the cylinders the same .030 over

BOTH 383 & 396 require block clearance (read parts of the block are ground down). Specifically the bottom pan rail area of the block. The 396 requires "more" clearance work than a 383. The more clearance machining done the higher the chance of cutting into a water jacket there is IF the work is not done right.

A good machine shop should do fine with either build. Just less margin for error on 396

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Damn, Kev! You left quite a bit out of your quote here: "For my current SR build.......high winding 396." lol!
I'm building a 383. Using the same heads and a conservative SR cam, I won't rev it as high as the 350 did. I've had one opti failure, so I'm sticking with it.

pantera_efi

iTrader: (1)

Hi I manufacture my version of the Opti-Spark.

This can have a TW of choice ?
You could specify a 24xe.
You could specify a 58x.
You could specify a 60-2 / "1/2" moon.
You could specify the 360.

Would you be interested ?

Lance

BTC

Thanks for clarifying.

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

Well.....I was really only focusing on the SR and "high winding".

OK..........just wondering.

My hope is to have the TorqHead kit in sometime next month. I'll let you know my impressions......but my cam isn't exactly be conservative, so it may be apples to oranges to your setup.

KW

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Make sure to be vigilant on checking those lobes and rollers on the lifters!

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Roger that! I think I'll be good this time. More spring load and lighter lifters than before, similar lobe aggressiveness, and slightly less rpm. I didn't have roadcourse duty in mind when we put that stock bottom setup together!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I was speaking from my own experience when my motor went to **** because I was too lazy to check the lifters.