Thomas Lucian Mahone

Besides bigger brakes , any other mods I should perform before installing a Procharger? I was already planning on new head/cam combo for the top end; so do I go ahead and upgrade the intake manifold as well? The air intake too? What about exhaust?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

This is a stock motor you're putting this in? What kind of boost are you wanting to run?

hrcslam

Start from the back and work your way forward. Tires, Suspension, Brakes, Rear Axle, Transmission, Engine. All that blown power means nothing if you can't put it to the ground due to bad suspension set up, or a broken trans/rear axle. And if you can't stop, well that's just dangerous.

What are your power goals? What are your goals for the car?

Thomas Lucian Mahone

7 or 8 psi at most, nothing crazy

Thomas Lucian Mahone

Power goal is 500 whp and about the same torque, so do I even bother with top end much if the Procharger is bolt-on?

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

Why would you need bigger brakes?

KW

Puck

iTrader: (17)

If your only goal is 500hp, I would just get a mild boost cam, valve springs, injectors, AFPR, drop in fuel pump, and a rear end. Then the best dyno tune you can get, from the most reputable shop around. Dont even bother dicking around with a mail order on a boosted car unless you just need one to get to the dyno tuner. Personally I would just get a cable and use free software to change the injector offset to whatever size you're running, which will be good enough starting point to drive it carefully to a tuner off boost. ~$60 or so for a cable that is super helpful to have anyway for diagnosing, vs $150 or w/e for a mail order that literally is wasted once you dyno tune is a no brainer for me.

ringmaster72

iTrader: (8)

I would suggest Meth Injection. To me, it is relatively cheap insurance and will allow your motor to last longer. I have been running 10 lbs on a stock motor for 4 years now. I credit this to a safe tune and meth injection.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You say 500hp, but once you get bored of that the easy thing to do is roll the dice and get a different pulley. Don't do that on a stock motor.

BALLSS

Procharger on a H/C stock bottom end motor...

OP, basically the motor is a air pump so more in from the Procharger you need as good of "out" you can get in the exhaust (headers) area. Lloyd Elliott would be good to get a H/C package from and he would port match your stock intake to the heads

bigger injectors and larger fuel pump

make sure the new tune is dead nuts on

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Stock LT1 pistons do NOT like boost. You can do a procharger and a very safe tune and get 400-450 pretty safe, but 500 is ragged edge. If you are dead set on boost, I'd skip the top end mods and pull apart the shortblock and do forged rods and pistons.

Also there is no upgrade for the intake unfortunately. The edelbrock piece is a waste. You do need long tubes, if you are putting more air in you need to get it out.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=bufmatmuslepants;19523261]Stock LT1 pistons do NOT like boost. You can do a procharger and a very safe tune and get 400-450 pretty safe, but 500 is ragged edge.

^^^Yup, now if you are planning to do a rebuild real soon then go for it, I usually keep the HP down to 400 and on new stock short blocks I will up it to around 420 RWHP or so when the customer want longevity, can you make 500? yes but it wont last long..

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If he stays between 7 to 8psi he should be fine as long as the tune is good. Problem is one can get greedy and take a gamble with weak ringlands. If all is good with the motor it should be right around 400rwhp. Also, there are more choices out there than LE. If you're looking you should also talk to AI and Gallant Technical Performance (GTP).

Dirty_Bird

Do pistons, rods, and valvetrain at least, then id save for rear and trans haha