Dadic 78

Hey LS1TECH, it's been a while!

My '94 Formula needs a new LT1. I don't need a 10 second car, nor do I want one. I'm looking for a very street-able, reliable car that makes good power, and doesn't act up. A nice cam lope will please my ears!

My thoughts are this: Stock block, heads, CC503, and bolt-ons. Currently running shorty headers, 3" exhaust, and CAI. I believe this setup should get me roughly 350hp, which is plenty. (Correct me if I'm wrong!)

I can have the motor built tomorrow, my question is regarding tuning... My local builders have told me that this setup will simply NOT work in a '94. They tell me the computer can not be tuned to accept this setup. Thing is, I've seen a hundred Youtube video's of '94 LT1's with this setup (or similar), and they run, and sound deadly!

So first question: If I run this setup, will I need a tune? (My gut says yes).

Second question: If I tune this setup, how reliable will by car be? I want a daily driver (probably see 6000 miles/year) reliability with good power. I don't want my engine light on, or do deal with surging, etc...

Appreciate your input. I'm pretty green when it comes to this!

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

They are (as you suspect) incorrect. The PCM can EASILY be tuned for this setup.

1st Question: Yes......you will need a tune.

2nd Question: The car will be reliable enough to drive 20K miles per year if they do a decent job building the engine.....and you get a tuner to do a decent tune.

Where are you located?

KW

hrcslam

I agree with KW Baraka.

The 2nd question is easier to answer than it is to get done (or even do yourself).

To tune it properly for a daily is actually quite timing consuming. Most dyno shops only tune the max power portion of it as it's quick and easy. Tuning for driveability is very time consuming.

This is where you learning how to tune is going to be beneficial. You can get a mail order tune (don't forget to order your own cable) and have something close to where you need the tune so that it won't damage anything. But start logging data and adjusting your tune as needed. $EE Hack works great for doing this as it analysis the tune for you and you just adjust the VE tables as needed to what's recommended by $EE Hack.

I first recommend reading how to tune. This is where I started, read it at least 3 times then read it some more. Then download and install Tuner Pro RT and the necessary files to get your tunes up. Also, download $EE Hack for data logging and analyzing. Along with his Tuner Pro Definition file.

Once you have all that downloaded and installed, open up Tuner Pro RT and load those ADX and XDF files. Then hover your mouse over each parameter (you have to expand the file first) in the left window, it'll have a little pop up that describes what each table does. Steveo did a great job on this definition file. Read everything, probably a few times.

Once you feel comfortable, you can connect the computer to the car and pull the tune (save it, e-mail it to yourself or something). Then start data logging for the tune. Make 1 change at a time, make sure it works right, then another, etc. Once you get comfortable with it, you'll start making multiple changes at the same time and notice how much better it drives.

The build you want can easily be daily driven (with the right stall, gears, and tires), but it will need to be tuned correctly.

I recommend tuning the VE Tables first (MAF disconnected, SD mode) then once those are dialed in, reconnect the MAF and tune ONLY the MAF tables. You'll also need at least 1 wide band O2 sensor.

It took me months to get my VE tables dialed in (I'm a perfectionist though), but I can grab any gear in my Camaro at 45mph and it's smooth the entire time. That's with 3.42 and a 6 speed (no torque converter to absorb NVH for me).

Good luck.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

I actually just stumbled upon a dyno sheet from a real long time ago when I had my car tuned with the cc503. The car was automatic with cc503, 1.6RR's, LT's and it out down 328rwhp with the dyno operator shutting down the car too early so it was realistically probably somewhere in the 330's at the tires through the auto so you should have more than 350 crank hp yes.

I daily drove that cam with a 3600 converter an hour to and from class and it was reliable as can be.

It may also be worth your while to ditch the shorties for some mid-length or better yet long tube headers.

aroberson77

Thanks HRCslam for all the info, I am doing a similar build on my 94 caprice motor.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

That was with the CC503, some hand ported stock heads, 1.6 roller rockers, CAI, pacesetter longtubes, and that pull was made while having the 24x system tuned at EFI Alchemy. Through a T56/Moser 12 bolt. Motor has stock crank, forged rods/pistons, was at approximately 11:1 compression ratio. Best trap was 113.6 mph.

I put dished pistons in it this last rebuild in order to prepare for boost, not sure where I am for power now but I lost 5mph trap with the dished pistons...

BALLSS

I would reconsider who is building your motor if that is their opinion. A mail order tune would easily accommodate a 503 cam swap. That shop may just view the LT1 as a Gen 1 SBC....and they are not the same.

If your stock motor has over 100k mi I would suggest whoever is doing the cam install to inspect the main & rod bearings. If they need attention replace.

Any cam swap would do better with some ported heads so if this is just a cam only swap you absolutely need new valve springs to support the cam.

with a mail order tune and 503 you would be closer to 325 rwhp, not 350.

There is no reason a properly installed mild to medium cam on a well tuned motor that is internally sound will not last as long as a stock motor

Dadic 78

Thanks for all the input guys, and sorry for the delay in response! I've been in the middle of a big move, and finally getting settled in.

I appreciate all the input guys! From what I'm reading, I can either:

a) Install a mail order tune, and probably push 325 hp (which is plenty for me!)

b) Play with my tune, work on it, and maybe squeeze out a few extra HP. Does that sound right?

Honestly, I don't have the time to spend hours tuning (nor the patience!). I work long hours, and would just like my car to be dependable, and fun to drive. I don't need the fastest thing on the road, reliability and ease of ownership trump speed/power for this guy.

Would an "out of the box" tune work good for me?

aroberson77

I think it would be easy enough to get the mail order tune and then at your leisure get the tuning cable and software and start to log data and make small adjustments as you drive.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

I'm sure results may vary but back when I had a Hotcam in my motor I only gained 7rwhp from a mail order tune to a dyno tune.

Dadic 78

I've got an ALDL cable, and I've run Datamaster to scan and diagnose my engine light when it comes on. I'm no tuner by any stretch, but I'm reasonably competent when it comes to using a computer.

I guess my lack of understanding tuning makes me hesitant to want to start down that path... I'd much rather prefer a plug and play type installation.

My gut tells me I should stick with building up another stock LT1, run my bolt-on's, and enjoy it for what it is.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Those cams can easily be tuned and last for a long time, better yet, look into something like an LT4 Hot Cam spec, I had one with boltons and a converter and ran mid 12's. Sounds like something like this setup would be more than enough for your looking for..