Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

I CANNOT get my valves adjusted. NSA Pro Mag 1/6, 14011051 GM Guideplates, Comp R lifters.

I've tried zero lash, rockers were jumping off the valve stems (SA rockers at the time). I've tried 1/16, no dice. 1/8 turn, no dice. I just got done setting them to 1/4 turn past zero lash, and they're still making a hellacious clacking and snapping sound!!!!

I'm doing each cylinder at TDC by firing order. I've tried feeling for zero lash by the moving the pushrod up/down method, by the spinning method, and I've even gone as far as calling zero lash when the pushrod starts to get hard to spin instead of just starting to feel drag.

On cylinder number three for some reason when I spin the retaining nut down it doesn't resist as much with the rest of the set, but the lifters are NOT collapsed.

I can't really do a dynamic setting because of my OVC wires, as I'd be needing replacements real quick!

How quiet is a NSA/Guideplated setup supposed to be??

Anyone got any ideas???? This is driving me NUTS!!!!!

pmbmax

The way i set all the ones i do is the compaion cylinder method this the way GM does all their new engines. It works great on big cams and small ones as well
1st the fireing order 18436572 they are 2 pistons in the engine at the same positions one on tdc comp. one tdc exhaust.
write the fireing order down 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2
6 5 7 2 1 8 4 3
watch you rocker arms when #1 is rocking (exhaust closing intake opening) stop and set 6 8 rocking set 5 follow me. it will take one revilotion to set all valves works the best. It is better to set your valves at top deed center compresion than any other place cause recardless of cam over lap they will be closed valves that is need more just ask
Phillip Bridges PS. r rockers no more than a 1/8 turn past zero

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Phillip

I tried that method today after finding out I have no freaking chance of setting them with the motor running.

I set them via your mentioned procedure with the engine warm. Zero lash was accomplished by moving the pushrod up and down until the slack was removed and then set 1/8 turn from there. Started the car, and IT WOULD BARELY IDLE! They were TOO TIGHT!!!!

This thing is really killing me.

pmbmax

I have set hundreds of valves this way are you sure all your plugs and wires are correct. try to move your pushrod up and down and make sure it is in the lifter seat then turn the adj. nut with fingers till it is tight then no more than an 1/8 i set mine at a 1/16 but sometime i have to go back cause i have one to loose and if you can trsh the s/a rockers get a set of guid plates. I have a ? is this a new setup as rockers heads cam. if you use gold rockers qwith some springs they will hit the bottom side pull a few of them and look for markes on rockers and also check pushrod length.

pmbmax

I will also tell you your valve train will be noisey with the r lifters set them like i said and put covers on and turn the engine 3000 and se if it sounds good .

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

I had read your post and you're not going far enough. 3/4 turn!!! sometimes a full 360 but 3/4 should get you where you need to be. Your 0 lash is when you're spinning the pushrod and you start to feel some tension or resistance. then turn 3/4 turn. It's no different than any other sbc.. If the lifters had been run at all, the rockers will feel real tight at first but give them 2 minutes and they will be fine.

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Oh, and 1 full turn on a typical gm stud is about .040"

Cliff Allon

i set mine 3/4 and never had a problem.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Problem is that 3/4 is too much for my setup. I'm expecting to be turning 6500+ and the Comp R's won't support that with so much pre-load.

Comp's specification for the R's is .02-.04 or about .8 to .16 turn on a 7/16 stud.

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Ohhhh, you didn't say you were using 7/16 studs. man, that makes a difference. Well, you might want to invest in a degree wheel, the one used for tightening torque to yield bolts. I suggest about 75 degree turn. 7/16 stud full turn is about .110.
Well my input is good luck. I would love to help personally but not being there makes it hard.

Fastbird93

iTrader: (10)

Someone's smiling on me, and laughing at the same time.

I went through one more time this morning, setting the lash at the comp recommended setting of .02-.04, using mindgames calculations for a 7/16" stud. I noticed that as the motor was being cranked around, some of the rockers were loosening, which is normal. What I found odd was that they were loosening to the point of vertical movement in the rocker.

So, I finished, and fired the motor with the valve covers off. About 3-4 rockers on each side had visible up/down movement on the stud, so I said screw it, and went to town with the motor running. I couldn't really tell one clack from the other, so I used the rocker movement as a guide, tighten until I don't see any more vertical movement out of the rocker. Well, this seemed to be doing the trick! It started to quiet down, and the cam started to lope like a **** at the prescribed idle unlike before.

I was getting it down, but had a mystery clacking on the driver side that was horrid, but couldn't see anything. So I grabbed a 3/8 ID hose and stuck it to each retaining nut, and when I got to the number two intake, I could plainly hear it. So I back it off to reset it, and the clacking goes intermintent, then almost silence, and then.....

The motor dies. Battery ran out of juice. Oh well...........Looks like my next chance to play is going to be on Tuesday.

Thanks for the help everyone, I think it's finally starting to happen.

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Well, what ever you did, save the instructions on a CD-R so you never forget them...lol