LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Sick new setup, ET estimates?

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Old 03-10-2005, 10:39 PM
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Default Sick new setup, ET estimates?

Currently my best is an 11.74 @ 113 with a horrible 5,000 +RPM valve float...(car falls on its face) and a little LT4 Hotcam

Since ill be on leave for 28 days I decided on doing some serious mods before I go to Iraq, the list is as follows

Comp Cams 236/242 .555/.576 112 LSA camshaft,
Crane Cams 1.46 130#/402# Dual coil valve springs,
Rebuild Stock lifters with shims to hyd/solid roller hybrid (.015 plunger travel)
Titanium Retainers,
Thunder racing one-piece chromoly pushrods,
7/16" Rocker Studs,
Comp Cams Pro magnum 1.6 7/16" stud non-aligning rockers
GMPP Guide Plates,
Racetronix Plug and Play fuel system for up to 750 HP,
fuel pump booster,
Aeromotive AFPR
MSD 6AL Ignition system,
MSD Blaster II Coil,
MSD Adjustable Digital Window Switch, and Last But not least
a TEXAS NITROUS TECHNOLOGIES 150-350 WET KIT!!!!!
and lets not forget a fresh set of 30x9 stocker radial sidewall slicks.

in addition to that ill be removing 200lbs out of the car, mostly from the nose.

No this is not me dreaming, I have ordered all these parts from thunder racing (except the slicks which are at the shop already) and will install them while on leave starting the 14th of march

I was wondering if anyone had some educated guesses on what ETs are possible given a perfect hook and a 200 shot of nitrous. Im hoping to cut .8 off the ETs, NA (10.90s) and hoping the 200 shot would slash a further second + for a single digit time slip.
Old 03-11-2005, 07:49 AM
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I just think your crazy! LOL well good luck gettin it all done and it all stayin in one piece! Hope you do get that single digit time slip ur waitin for! Hope ur suspension is up to the task as well!
Old 03-11-2005, 10:22 AM
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Unless I am reading this wrong, The only NA power mod is the cam. I don't know if the bigger cam will make that big of a difference. If the cam is better fitted for the heads then Maybe, and I say maybe. I would say closer to 11.20's-30's. Then with a 150 shot prolly in the 10.30's. Either way I still love seeing those stock wheels in the air.

Best of luck to you,

Ken
Old 03-11-2005, 10:29 AM
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it all depends on the set up and track.
Impressed though that you go 11.7s with the HOT cam. how much does the car weigh?
I was only able to go 11.96 but it was still 3400#s...
Old 03-11-2005, 10:55 AM
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Did you already purchase all of that stuff?

LoL I have no clue what this car is going to run in the 1/4. Mainly because the traction will play the biggest factor. It looks like your hooking hard with your current setup pretty dam well. So I would guess high 10's on motor. And mid 9's on juice.

Are you running a trans break? If you are, all i got to say is this. I sure hope your springs and shocks have great rebound. Because I'm going to bet that you will drag that rear bumper launching of the trans break with spray off the line... HELLO BLUE SKY!

Mike
Old 03-11-2005, 10:57 AM
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Oh I know this is off topic but... Did you have to modify your rear calipers to fit those wheels on there? And did you have to move to a different studs?

Good luck with the combo man. And thank you for serving our country.

Mike
Old 03-11-2005, 12:17 PM
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Good luck over seas!

Stay safe!
Old 03-11-2005, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by z28racerlt1
Unless I am reading this wrong, The only NA power mod is the cam.
Ken
Well actually if the car was running good right now, I would consider the cam the only N/A modification, however, the car is falling FLAT on its face, almost coasting, at anything past 5,000-5,500 due to valve float. From 3000-5000 It pulls like a beast , then I have to sit and wait for it to cough its way up to 6000 which in a race seems like forever, I bet im loosing at LEAST 50hp up top, Thats why I expect the new fuel system, ignition, and a stable valve train to give me so much gain, that along with the new slicks and pulling 200 lbs of crap ( I hope I can get that much out) out of the car.

Right now she weighs in at a slim 3325 w/driver but I myself am slim at only 140lbs lol..
My suspension DID hook good, untill I put in a BMR anti-roll bar, it stopped the car from Snap rolling over, and made the dryrotted MT slicks Ive had for 3 years, that I bought Used for $50 spin, however now it picks up bolth wheels, the solution is a set of new meats. The rest of the suspension is stock stuff, with drilled front struts, and V6 springs, and works damn well if u ask me, but I dont know how it will act comming back down yet since I only get 6 inches of air right now!

Thanks for all your input and support guys!
Old 03-11-2005, 02:05 PM
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Oh PS, I had to grind, ALOT off the back calipers to make those wheels fit, but they are steel, Cragar Street stars, cheap imitations of a weld pro-star

Also, I dont use a trans-brake I just have a very top secret torque converter *cough*

ok ok, well actually I bought a trans-king, which frankly was a $500 heap o trash, slipped like hell and had horrible 60's, Then as an experiment, even though Everyone, even the torque converter companies, said it wouldnt work, My dad gave me a Spare Dynamic torque converter from his DRAGSTER!
It went on his TH400 splined powerglide, his car has 950 HP, and weighs 1800 lbs, the converter flashes to 5800 in his car, and in mine... well... It was a PERFECT MATCH! Flashes to 3,000ish, NAILS the 60' and doesnt have hardly ANY slippage whatsoever, It was a keeper for sure!
Old 03-11-2005, 02:21 PM
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I know exactly what you are speaking of when it comes to valve float. I am now replacing all my rockers due to that. I also know that you do pick up with fixing that problem. I wish my car weighed 3325 and still had around 200 lbs to take off. Mine now weighs 3350 with me. I know it doesn't help that I am 215 myself.

I wish you the best of luck.

ken
Old 03-11-2005, 02:33 PM
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yeah I still have AC, power steering, Bose Audio, Carpet Padding and ALL kinds of junk to take off, I totalled it all up one day, but I already I forgot what I was takin out! lol
Old 03-12-2005, 12:37 PM
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Talking valve float

I mentioned earlier AFR Hydra Rev kit solved valve float for me without having to go with more spring pressure which is generally the answer for valve float.Hyd. rollers slam the valves off the seats since the have such fastramps opening and closing the valves the rev kit keeps the lifter folling the cam regaining allthat lost power invtigate it trust me it works will be in my motor again once I have a reason to remove the manifold or heads



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