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What did you do as far as valve covers taller set and did you move the alternator or just trim the valve coverin that spot
Im running cantons and alt is in stock location... but i did take a grinding disk to the "nub" on the back of the alt. The vc is still notched...but there was still minor contact.
BTW...Im not here that often, a friend pointed me over here.
Stock shortblock with 109k miles
Ai 200cc heads & 228* HR cam, CNC'd intake manifold and 58mmTB, Hooker LTs, ORY, Borla catback, 30# red-top injectors, dyno tune. Stock T56 & stock rear with 3.42s.
404/384 on a dynojet. Restrictive Y-pipe is likely holding it back to some extent.
383 lt1
3600 stall billet
callies crank
Callies rods
JE pistons
Custom Comp Camshaft
LE3 Heads
Port Match intake
58mm TB
EWP
Long tube headers into x pipe into bullets dumped
shaft mount rockers
Fluidamper balancer
4,10 gears with eaton true track locker and moser axles
duel walbro pumps on hobs switch
Carbonfiber DS
432hp 423tq on a mustang dyno in Florida temp was 95 degrees hi humidity
this was the 4th pull the first 3 were in open loop cause noone was paying attention so it was a bit heat soaked
Took for a cruise later that day to and realized 1st gear was slipping bad in the upper rpm range only 1st no other gear took tranny apart and all hard parts were cracked.
95 Z
6 Speed
60k mi
Custom CAI
Pacesetter L/T's and catless midpipe
Borla Catback with Hooker Max Flow muffler
Dyno Tune
311/347 on DynoJet.
Ohh and FYI it will be common for the ABS INOP light to be on your car after the dyno....if it does NOT go out check the rear ABS wires/sensors on the axle. The tuner threw the strap over the axle AND the ABS wires on the driver side of the rear axle and during the pulls must have been tugging on the wires going into the sensor. I wiggled the wires in a "diagnostic manner" to see if any would rip out. Got back in the car to start it and it went out.
Last edited by smitty2919; 03-17-2014 at 07:59 AM.
Could be lots of things, don't dwell on it. Other guys with the same engine setup have made another 35hp 35tq through an A4 could be something about the individual car, the tuning, the dyno........................
At one point I had a chart that said 509rwtq from a cam only setup, I didn't pretend it was accurate.
Ohh I'm not worried about it, just interesting to see all that work done for those numbers. If there was something wrong which gave those numbers I would think the owner wouldnt post them lol
That much power done by 6000rpm, that doesn't seem legit.
If you have questions about it, I'll be happy to answer. If you have questions about its validity Moe will be happy to confirm since he was the foot on the gas pedal. The setup should actually make power beyond the 7200 computer shutoff, but it has trouble breathing sitting still on the dyno above 6500.
And if you are talking about making 475 by 6k, it didn't. For some reason the graph only picked up a small portion of run 8. You can see the blue line at the top of the graph around the 5-6k range. He let off around the 6500 mark, so 475 was at roughly 6500 rpms.
Last edited by 12sec97Z28; 11-06-2014 at 11:45 AM.
394 solid roller, Dragonslayer crank, Oliver billet rods, Diamond pistons
AFR 210 heads ported by LE flowing around 326 cfm
Really big Lunati cam spec'd by LE for the top end
LT4 intake also ported by LE and opened for monoblade TB
Converted to OBD1 and tuned by Moe Bailey on 93 pump gas.
12.5:1 static compression
T56
Moser 12 bolt w/ 4.10 gears
It has a HSW standalone fuel system running Gulf 116 unleaded for the Nitrous Outlet direct port system, and hopefully some day I'll get to use it!
It's a full interior car with all power still running A/C
10-21-2013, 09:28 PM
