balancer hub ??
#1
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balancer hub ??
im having trouble getting the balancer hub on to the crank.... the issue is i dont remember the crank being keyed when i took it in for the rebuild and now it is.... there is no slot on the hub for the key to slide into either... any ideas
EDIT: ok i figured out the key thing its a pressfit for my car unless you have the keyed hub, which i dont, so how the hell do you get it on i tried and it just pushed the key off earlier today
EDIT: ok i figured out the key thing its a pressfit for my car unless you have the keyed hub, which i dont, so how the hell do you get it on i tried and it just pushed the key off earlier today
#2
I hope someone replies to this. I haven't started my reassembly yet, but I know I'll run into the same problem. I ordered a keyed one from GM, I screwed up my old one. Long story, don't and do mechanic work.
#3
My crank was keyed for the hub (when I removed the hub) however, the hub itself is not keyed. I brought number 1 piston to TDC and installed the hub with the triangle marking straight up. Three wacks with a deadblow hammer and the hub was bottomed out on my crank.
If the engine is in the car using a deadblow would not be an option due to space constraints; so I would use some 7/16" 20 all thread and some nuts to pull it on. To lessen the possibility of stripping the crank threads.
KENT MOORE makes a tool that is designed to remove and install the hub. It is pricey, but I am a SNAP-ON junky so it is not in my tool box.
On another note a friend of mine is in the middle of his LT1 build, and he was against me using a hammer on my the hub. However, his shortblock is being professionally built and he called me after our disagreement to inform me that his builder installed his balancer with a BFH.
Mike
If the engine is in the car using a deadblow would not be an option due to space constraints; so I would use some 7/16" 20 all thread and some nuts to pull it on. To lessen the possibility of stripping the crank threads.
KENT MOORE makes a tool that is designed to remove and install the hub. It is pricey, but I am a SNAP-ON junky so it is not in my tool box.
On another note a friend of mine is in the middle of his LT1 build, and he was against me using a hammer on my the hub. However, his shortblock is being professionally built and he called me after our disagreement to inform me that his builder installed his balancer with a BFH.
Mike
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I would never take an engine to a guy who beats a harmonic balancer on. Anyone who knows engines knows thats hard on the thrust face of the main bearings and will open the clearances up and possible causing issues later on.
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well i found out what the deal was on stock LT1's they provide for a key slot on the crank however they dont put a key in it.... its just a press fit so i just took the key out and put the hub on the way it was supposed to.... from stock the only thing holding your hub to the crank is a pressfit we will see if it holds up i will get a keyed hub in the next month or so just for safety's sake
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Originally Posted by Texas_TA
well i found out what the deal was on stock LT1's they provide for a key slot on the crank however they dont put a key in it.... its just a press fit so i just took the key out and put the hub on the way it was supposed to.... from stock the only thing holding your hub to the crank is a pressfit we will see if it holds up i will get a keyed hub in the next month or so just for safety's sake
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#9
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Late last year, I bought a bunch of stuff from More Performance and I recall seeing a keyed balancer hub that you could use the key with. HOWEVER, I can't seem to get their website up at this time. Also, I thought they were a ls1 website advertiser and they're not listed. How did I find them before?? I had bought my vented opti and new timing cover from them.
ANYWAY... the balancer hub is a press fit and the triangular pointer matches the crankshaft timing dot. The balancer itself has three non-matched bolt locations to the hub so it only goes on way.
For reasons listed above, DON'T beat the hub on, use a proper balancer installer.
I can't imagine any situation where the hub may twist on the crank but having a key in it is a bit of extra insurance
ANYWAY... the balancer hub is a press fit and the triangular pointer matches the crankshaft timing dot. The balancer itself has three non-matched bolt locations to the hub so it only goes on way.
For reasons listed above, DON'T beat the hub on, use a proper balancer installer.
I can't imagine any situation where the hub may twist on the crank but having a key in it is a bit of extra insurance
Last edited by Paul Bell; 04-10-2006 at 10:42 PM.
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Originally Posted by 94Z396
Why not use a ATI balancer rather than using a stock hug?
Originally Posted by Paul Bell
For reasons listed above, DON'T beat the hub on, use a proper balancer installer.