Bowtie Boy

Anyone have experience changing out the cap/rotor/plugs/wires on a LT1 car? I am wondering hard it will be and how long the average time takes. I cant even see the freaking cap! (looked at it really quick and had to go, never looked at it before this for some odd reason) Any hints or suggestions?

harvickgm

iTrader: (10)

plan everything carefully and take your time... the waterpump and balancer have to come off to get to the opti. the plugs and plug wires arent bad, just dont get in a rush and make sure you have the special socket for the cap. i believe its an E4... someone correct me if im wrong...

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I've done the plugs and wires in my '96 Z-28 a couple of times. Although it can be a pain, especially if the exhaust system has never been off the car, I find that it provides a LOT more work room if you remove the front section(s) of the y-pipe/exhaust system. With that out of the way, 7 of the 8 plugs become readily accessible. #2 plug, front right side, is still "out of sight", so you have to feel your way through that one.

The shop manual says to pull the power steering pump in order to get the plugs wires through the loom(s) at the right front of the engine. The first time I changed them, I didn't, and it was a royal PITA to feed the wires through there. I managed to destroy the outer jacketing of one of the wires while doing this. Fortunately, a call to Moroso got me another wire, free of charge....Hats off to them!

The second time I did the wires, a couple of months ago, I pulled the PS pump. That, in itself, is an adventure, but it did make the plug wire job a LOT easier. If you go that route, here's a tip...get a 16mm box/open end wrench and cut it in half. You need a really short wrench to get the PS hose nut off.

Bowtie Boy

I am looking in the haynes manual it says tha some of the plugs are hard to get to and those should be taken out from bottom none of the steps does its say anything about removing anything other then the heat shield. It says using a sock abd extension witha universal swivel joint should be used to remove the plugs and a length of 3/8 ID hose to put them back in makes it easier.

And also that the Dist and rotor can be accessed from the bottom.

I know it may be "easier" removing that stuff. But I would rather not do it if it only saves me like 5-10 minutes on a plug or what not.

Whats everyones verdict on that?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

If you have long, skinny hands, and the flexibility of Gumby, follow the Haynes manual. Otherwise, take a second look at what I posted. I've been there, done it twice.

In no way, shape or form, do I like to do any more work that necessary. However, I have big hands, and don't like to scrape them up any more than necessary, as I don't heal as quickly as I did when I was young. Secondly, I like to be able to see what I'm doing, ans there's just NO WAY to see anything with the exhaust in place.

I'm not saying it's a good situation, it's just the nature of the beast. In the 10 years I've owned the car, I've only done this twice, and that was probably one time too many.