LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Advice request: E-W/P and front cover re-seal.

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Old 07-05-2006, 06:40 PM
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Default Advice request: E-W/P and front cover re-seal.

I have pulled the front cover, and intake along with all associated parts. I am putting in an electric water pump (CSI/CSR) unit along with the painless harness. I have the pump apart, put in the freeze plug where the impeller shaft went into the pump, and I also pulled the water pump drive from the timing chain. What is the best was to seal the timing cover where the shaft used to go? I was thinking freeze plug with some JB weld or something to seal it?

Sealing the front cover and getting no leaks seems to be impossible, or at least everyone I know always has a leaking front cover. This is not good. Any tips to getting this right? I am getting all new seals btw.

The u/d pulley seems pretty straight forward.
Old 07-05-2006, 07:45 PM
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My experience with JB Weld and oil has been bad. I'm sure it will hold water but it won't hold oil. If the freeze plug is exactly the right diameter, should be sealed anyway. I just left my little gear and seal alone and let it spin. The front cover on the waterpump should seal up with RTV. I started an EWP install a few year ago and didn't do it and just sealed mine up with RTV red. Never leaked.
Old 07-05-2006, 10:41 PM
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Well, I'll be.... DAMNED.

The oil pan gasket is RIPPED. Not only that, but the motor mount bolt on the driver side has almost completly come out. I guess when the old owner put in the LT's, he forgot to tighten it. No wonder I thought the motor mount was broken. Trans fluid dark and nasty. I don't know. I really don't see doing all this in the driveway. Especially because every time I go out to work on the car it rains. Between that and the hot sun. I will try to RVT it the best I can. I'll do the oil pan later. Why in the world is there such a huge gap between the timing cover and oil pan. That is just stupid. I'll almost need to pull the motor. Might as well. Intake, front accesories, all clear.... I might tow it somewhere where I can. I don't know. I hate this pile of a car.

Thanks for the advice.
Old 07-06-2006, 12:31 AM
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Dude pull that pan down low as possible and replace that gasket. Lot better if you can get the pan off, but with the stock kmember that's a PIA if not impossible without pulling the engine (non-optional I'm sure). I've fished in a new gasket before it's not easy but little patience, it'll go on. Little RTV around the front and rear seals on the corners. I wouldn't chance a ripped gasket on the pan. The best way to do the front cover when you go electric wp is to have a plug welded in, cheap and will never leak.

Originally Posted by FireFox50
Well, I'll be.... DAMNED.

The oil pan gasket is RIPPED. Not only that, but the motor mount bolt on the driver side has almost completly come out. I guess when the old owner put in the LT's, he forgot to tighten it. No wonder I thought the motor mount was broken. Trans fluid dark and nasty. I don't know. I really don't see doing all this in the driveway. Especially because every time I go out to work on the car it rains. Between that and the hot sun. I will try to RVT it the best I can. I'll do the oil pan later. Why in the world is there such a huge gap between the timing cover and oil pan. That is just stupid. I'll almost need to pull the motor. Might as well. Intake, front accesories, all clear.... I might tow it somewhere where I can. I don't know. I hate this pile of a car.

Thanks for the advice.
Old 07-06-2006, 12:36 AM
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thanks, so the gasket can be fished in, I'll have to try that.
Old 07-06-2006, 12:38 AM
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I do believe a lot of guys use 50 cent pieces with JB weld. in the front timing covers to cover up where the hole is for the water pump drive....
Old 07-06-2006, 08:34 AM
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Mine has a freeze plug in there, held in place with the Moroso intake epoxy... You have to anchor it with something because the hole diameter wont match up exactly to ANY freeze plug available. Get the biggest size you can fit and anchor it with some good epoxy. The moroso intake epoxy will handle all the vibrations, oil, whatever you can throw at it.
Old 07-09-2006, 12:16 AM
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Well, this might kind of suck, but working in the driveway sucks even more.

I got a new timing cover seal kit, put in the new seals, and for the hole where the waterpump drive used to go I put in some grey RTV then a quarter, rvt on top of that, put the seal which holds the quarter in real tight, won't move a bit. I went ahead and put the timing cover on. It really sucks that the timing cover kits don't come with the peice at the bottom like they do with the Fords. I just cleaned with brakekleen the areas, put silicone around the bottom and along part of the side of the pan towards the front. Hopefully if it leaks, at least it won't pour. I would do this "right" but I guess I am just spoiled on a lift. Since the front accesories are off, intake, valve covers, and one engine mount loose, I am getting tempted to pull the motor. I just started my new job, so I am hesitant to ask to use a bay. I am thinking of porting the heads, a buddy of mine did his by himself (screenname Radd) and it really made the difference.

My opti had rust on the metal cover when I took it apart.... the sensor seems good though. What do you people think? It is suposed to be new.
Old 07-09-2006, 01:52 AM
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It is a pain. my front part of my oil pan gasket is ripped too. previous owner had the cover off and tore it. he just RTV'd it to the cover. I was in there and saw it. when I replace my front K-member....I'll fully replace the gasket. until then.....it does not leak.

it is a pain to pull the motor. sure it looks like your almost there..but it is still a B****
Old 07-09-2006, 02:16 AM
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I think the whole LT1 in the F-body is overrated in it's difficulty. Not as easy as the mustang, but then again, this isn't a mustang. Pull it, port the heads, reseal, re-install. For now I think I'll just do the best I can in the driveway. Thanks for the help




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