Sleeving Lt1
07-11-2006, 07:37 AM
#5
Originally Posted by Honda Hunter
Isnt that the only way to get it over 398 safely?
Why would you want to go that big? Most people cant afford the heads needed to feed those inches...so why cause the brain damage? You can make 650-670 hp on pumpgas with a 383....spend the money on the top 1/2 not the bottom 1/2.
David
07-11-2006, 07:39 AM
#6
TECH Addict
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: The beautiful Kingdom of Bahrain
Posts: 2,401
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why not? Look at the LSX guys. They do it all the time. They go that big and get the right heads and all is well so why cant LTX guys do it?
07-11-2006, 08:04 AM
#7
Originally Posted by Honda Hunter
Isnt that the only way to get it over 398 safely?
No. You can go up to 409 safely but that's on the ragged edge. Someone builds 409's on a regular basis but I can't remember the shop that does. CZ28 would be the better place to look for that info as that's where I've seen it in the past 6-8 mos. I believe TPIS is the one who builds them. MEGA $$
Why do you want to sleeve it? Just trying something different? That block is .040 over you can go to .060 if you really had to.
I got the crank back but it's toast.
FYI Last edited by SRZ; 07-11-2006 at 08:11 AM.
Trending Topics
07-11-2006, 08:11 AM
#8
I ruin the end of films...
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Taking back some video tapes
Posts: 1,545
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've never seen a sleeved LTx motor. I've seen a 421, a 414 and a 401 and none were sleeved.
If you want more cubes, go with a Little M or Motown block. The 4.00" bore block just can't handle the big cubes like a 4.125 can.
If you want more cubes, go with a Little M or Motown block. The 4.00" bore block just can't handle the big cubes like a 4.125 can.
07-11-2006, 08:24 AM
#9
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (53)
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Monticello, Kentucky
Posts: 4,433
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well sleeving becomes necessary when using the aluminum block because iron is stronger (obviously). So on an already iron block you don't really need it. You reach its limit and you're done. I think sleeves on an iron block are for damaged cylinders and it makes more sense to fix one than bore seven others. That's what I think.
07-11-2006, 09:02 AM
#11
Trust me you don't have to worry about that. I ran that block w/ close to 10K and never had a issue w/ it. The piston doesn't travel that far down but believe me I was shocked to see it myself having paid an ungodly amount for the LB back in 01. Didn't know it was like that until my 1st rebuild in 03. I dyno'd 443rwhp w/ that block too.
07-11-2006, 09:05 AM
#12
Launching!
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Lima, Ohio
Posts: 237
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Oh thanks srz didn`t know you where here to thanks for the info. So did the other guy take the parts? Still interested. Nice to see you on Ls1tech to. The parts I got from you are great just got me scared a little when I saw that hole.
07-11-2006, 11:30 AM
#13
actually the bottom of the cylinder needs to be intact for a shop to "sleeve" a block. They bore the cylinder way out and leave a ledge at the bottom for the new sleeve to rest on.
07-11-2006, 11:32 AM
#14
If I were building it , I would use a burr grinder to smooth out the rough edges(round it off) so as not to leave any stress risers. Because that is were cracks start.(stress risers)
07-11-2006, 03:30 PM
#16
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Naples, FL
Posts: 1,118
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JUICED96Z
Well those are almuinum blocks so they are all sleeved 
Ive been told that the 98's can only go .010 over without getting too thin. So to get more of an overbore you HAVE to sleeve it.
07-11-2006, 04:26 PM
#17
With sleeves you have to use a good shop a friend had a stroker built by a big shop in MN later finding out one of the core motor bores was damaged and sleeved, POORLY, never sealed blewup a few cooling system components WAY WAY overheated, the motor was built again off a good block he supplied but it still cost him all the transport and having the heads inspected after the overheat.
It can't be stressed enough USE A GOOD SHOP, a truely good one not just one with a good marketting department.
That said unless it is to fix a single damage bore because in your location a core block is hard to find don't bother. Power is in the topend, do a 383 which is straightforward and relatively simple and spend extra on the topend. If you let the cost of the bottomend eat up too much of the budget you will end up with a disappointment. Those of us willing to use good heads/cam shops are making more power and going faster with stock shortblocks than guys who built aftermarket headed stroker just a couple years ago.
It can't be stressed enough USE A GOOD SHOP, a truely good one not just one with a good marketting department.
That said unless it is to fix a single damage bore because in your location a core block is hard to find don't bother. Power is in the topend, do a 383 which is straightforward and relatively simple and spend extra on the topend. If you let the cost of the bottomend eat up too much of the budget you will end up with a disappointment. Those of us willing to use good heads/cam shops are making more power and going faster with stock shortblocks than guys who built aftermarket headed stroker just a couple years ago.
07-13-2006, 03:37 AM
#20
Originally Posted by 572ysc
Oh thanks srz didn`t know you where here to thanks for the info. So did the other guy take the parts? Still interested. Nice to see you on Ls1tech to. The parts I got from you are great just got me scared a little when I saw that hole.
Well I still have the pistons, rings, wrist pins, and spiral locks which are basically new. The crank was bad though.
Also have the accessory bracket and a few other odds and ends. Just let me know when.