LE1+N20+Stock A4
07-14-2006, 12:31 AM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
LE1+N20+Stock A4 Ok here is the breif specks on the car.
96Z A4 (rebuilt by GM 19k miles ago).
Full bolt ons, auburn 10 bolt with 3.42's, some suspension work, tune, MSD wires, TR-6 plugs, 150 shot, racetronix fuel pump, Pro stars with E.T. Streets.
Getting ready to get some LT's and a ORY to go with the magnaflow.
Looking at a stall and a stronger tranny if need be and a LE1 cam.
Really liking the idea of a LE1 cam. I am just about done with aviation maintenance school and thought about doing a mild port on my heads and intake (have looked at a set of LT1 heads that I later sold to Loyd) and have torn down and rebuilt engines and all.
Would the stock but fresh tranny handle a 150 shot along with a tuned LE1 with the mild port work? Or should I get a rebuild while I am throwing in the stall?
I would fear for the 10 bolt but I would just not spin the motor up very hard on the launches at the track (don't go that often)
96Z A4 (rebuilt by GM 19k miles ago).
Full bolt ons, auburn 10 bolt with 3.42's, some suspension work, tune, MSD wires, TR-6 plugs, 150 shot, racetronix fuel pump, Pro stars with E.T. Streets.
Getting ready to get some LT's and a ORY to go with the magnaflow.
Looking at a stall and a stronger tranny if need be and a LE1 cam.
Really liking the idea of a LE1 cam. I am just about done with aviation maintenance school and thought about doing a mild port on my heads and intake (have looked at a set of LT1 heads that I later sold to Loyd) and have torn down and rebuilt engines and all.
Would the stock but fresh tranny handle a 150 shot along with a tuned LE1 with the mild port work? Or should I get a rebuild while I am throwing in the stall?
I would fear for the 10 bolt but I would just not spin the motor up very hard on the launches at the track (don't go that often)
07-15-2006, 11:33 AM
#5
Most shops can not competently rebuild a 4L60E to stock specs. A FACTORY fresh tranny will likely last awhile with a window switch, a stock local rebuild will be hit or miss.
daniel, 2600 stall??? was it a crappy 12" or a 9.5" setup specifically to stall low, neither is a good idea. I had a 2600 9.5" Level 10 billet converter ran hot drove bad and later found out the hub runout was .1"(not a typo), went to a 2800 Edge 9.5" drove better and cooler, since up to a 3400 Edge which still drives better and cooler.
daniel, 2600 stall??? was it a crappy 12" or a 9.5" setup specifically to stall low, neither is a good idea. I had a 2600 9.5" Level 10 billet converter ran hot drove bad and later found out the hub runout was .1"(not a typo), went to a 2800 Edge 9.5" drove better and cooler, since up to a 3400 Edge which still drives better and cooler.
Trending Topics
07-15-2006, 12:35 PM
#8
i've seen stock transmission in the ls1 cars handle that with no problem, but in my opinion, it's the stall that kills these transmissions.
the stock 4l60e for some reason doesn't handle being stall and handling that much pressure....anything more than stock converters usually end up as the demise of the trany.
as for the h/c and nitrous, as long as you don't spray through the shifts, you should be fine.
of course, this is all JMO
the stock 4l60e for some reason doesn't handle being stall and handling that much pressure....anything more than stock converters usually end up as the demise of the trany.
as for the h/c and nitrous, as long as you don't spray through the shifts, you should be fine.
of course, this is all JMO
07-15-2006, 01:21 PM
#9
12 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 869
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
eh internally the trans is the same LT1 or LS1.
Heat is the killer of these, and an aftermarket stall increases heat by a ton. I'd suggest a (good) tranny cooler and maybe a deeper pan. Definetly get it built by a good shop with an upgraded kit.
I lost mine in my old TA at 170k. I rebuilt it myself with a stock kit and it worked fine.
Heat is the killer of these, and an aftermarket stall increases heat by a ton. I'd suggest a (good) tranny cooler and maybe a deeper pan. Definetly get it built by a good shop with an upgraded kit.
I lost mine in my old TA at 170k. I rebuilt it myself with a stock kit and it worked fine.
07-15-2006, 04:14 PM
#10
the lt1 has plastic something servo or seomthin in it that breaks frequently while the ls1 has a steel one...idk the 2600 i had was a 11 inch or 10.5....it brake stalled to around 2200 at the track so it might have been around 2800 flash...but anyways stock trannys suck get it rebuild by a reputable shop...check over on cz28.com for some builders, one comes to mind hes a spnser over there...i have his tranny and i beat on it, daily drive it with a 3500 stall and it hasnt ever hiccuped
07-15-2006, 04:31 PM
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Kzoo, MI
Posts: 2,289
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by streetrod93
i've seen stock transmission in the ls1 cars handle that with no problem, but in my opinion, it's the stall that kills these transmissions.
the stock 4l60e for some reason doesn't handle being stall and handling that much pressure....anything more than stock converters usually end up as the demise of the trany.
as for the h/c and nitrous, as long as you don't spray through the shifts, you should be fine.
of course, this is all JMO
the stock 4l60e for some reason doesn't handle being stall and handling that much pressure....anything more than stock converters usually end up as the demise of the trany.
as for the h/c and nitrous, as long as you don't spray through the shifts, you should be fine.
of course, this is all JMO
That IMO is a misconception. Yes a stock size high stall converter is going to be hell on a transmission because they generally arent that efficient and they generate heat. On the other hand a smaller diameter higher stall converters that are of good quality are efficient and do not generate heat like a stock size one of near the same stall.
07-15-2006, 04:45 PM
#12
TECH Apprentice
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was researching nitrous for about 5 months....id say go for a 100 shot and you'll be perfectly safe with no problems...150 should be safe generally,but some people have problems(very few) But if i were you,but im not,id spray a 100 shot and see how it handled it....
07-16-2006, 03:17 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Well buddy of mine knows a local guy that does noting but over drive tranny rebuilds and has a warrenty on his work no matter how bad to beat on it. Told him I wanted mine to handle around 600fwhp and would pull the trans out for him and he gave me a killer deal so I might do it. Later found out that he is just giving me a flat rate to build it no matter what the power level since I am a freind of a friend and it would only cost more in the parts.
Starting to think about waiting to mess with the car again till this winter and going LE2 with a tranny cooler and built tranny and while I am breaking it all in and getting used to it look for a 12 bolt or 9 inch.
I have been saing I want to spray the car for two years now and still havent! When you are wining on the motor there is no reason to spray I guess lol. With the LE2 and stall it would be a big jump in power and I might jet the spray down to a 100 shot to help save the bottom end and then after the 12 bolt build the bottom end to handle a lot more Juice.
Should get me down the track pretty good.....
Starting to think about waiting to mess with the car again till this winter and going LE2 with a tranny cooler and built tranny and while I am breaking it all in and getting used to it look for a 12 bolt or 9 inch.
I have been saing I want to spray the car for two years now and still havent! When you are wining on the motor there is no reason to spray I guess lol. With the LE2 and stall it would be a big jump in power and I might jet the spray down to a 100 shot to help save the bottom end and then after the 12 bolt build the bottom end to handle a lot more Juice.
Should get me down the track pretty good.....