steiger99

k I have read just about every thread there is on this site and still can't figure this out. 1995 LT1 camaro with forged 383 stroker (12.5:1 compression) done by golenengineservice.com. I have approx 1100 miles on the new setup and am now on my 3rd opti, which is the new one from MSD for $500.

Symptoms: The car is really hard to start just about everytime I try. Sometimes, however, it seems like it starts before I even turn the key, but most of the time it turns over for a good 3-5 seconds, I try pumping the gas, it starts to make good noises like it wants to start and finally it starts within 10 seconds. Now that she is started the throttle response is just not there. When I rev it and I can definitely tell it is bogging/hesitating/etc. It sputters real bad in any gear under 2000 rpms. When I am accelerating and hit the 2000rpm mark its like the car catches it breath and seems like the power is finally there until I hit about 4000 rpm and I get a serious misfire/miss/complete loss of power. THe car doesn't shut off it just misses real bad and then runs real rough for next minute or so and then it just goes back to that constant minor sputtering.

I have been to two shops (southeast michigan) to try and figure out what the "Service engine soon" light is for but nobody can get a reading. I don't know if they just dont have the right scanner or what the deal is but they send me away empty handed everytime. So my first question is where can I get a scanner or even better yet, some software that will tell me the trouble codes and possbily also use this software to tune my car. Bryan at PCMforless tuned the car by the way and I have the AKM cable that plugs into my laptop and the car port, I loaded Bryan's tune via my laptop to be exact.

I have new O2 sensors, new TPS, new MSD opti, new plugs, new AIC valve. I just bought a new coil and coil wire just for shat and giggles and am putting that on today as we speak. THe fuel pressure is about at 45 and holds steady while in the KOEO position. I read something about the opti going on backwards in one of these message boards, something about the "pintle" or "splined shaft" not being lined up correctly. I guess there is two ways that the opti clicks into place??? I just lined up the dowel pin and put that lined up with the overlarged hole on the opti itself and the opti just fell into place. Every other way I lined it up the opti would not click into place. Is that wrong, or possible wrong?

I noticed the spark plug wires on cylinder 8 and 6 have slightly been melted (the outer coating has been melted off), I am putting on new wires as we speak since I just found this out. This will also be the 3rd set of plugs I have put in since the new motor. Is there a specific gap you guys use (I have NGKTR55 gapped at .050). With my high compression should I change my gap or maybe run a colder plug?

Mainly how or who can figure out what codes my car is throwing so I can at least be pointed in the right direction. I will buy the damn scanner if you can give a part number of one that you know will work for my 1995 OBD1 computer.

Chad @ Golen Engine Service has been trying to trouble shoot with me but he keeps saying "opti, opti, opti.." and this is my third and final opti. When I replaced the opti with the MSD opti yesterday the sputtering while at a constant speed was the exact same, well everything remained the same. When I floor it it accelerates great until I get into higher RPM's and then.. BAM!!! the entire car misses and I have to push in the clutch until the car catches itself and then just runs like crap. Also when the engine is coming down from higher rpm's after this "big miss" sometimes it falls so fast that the car will actually stall out (rpms dive below 500 and I have to restart it which takes a good 8-10 seconds of turing it over.

All thoughts/comments are greatly appreciated and the paypal reward is not a joke

Steiger99@hotmail.com

blkchevyz

download datamaster

http://www.ttspowersystems.com/DM_Software.htm

you get like 20 free scans with that. then you can figure out your ses light

probably either o2, maf, map... or some other sensor.

Fbody4Ever

iTrader: (15)

I saw no mention of ignition control module or the coil itself. But admittedly, I skimmed a little bit. First thoughts while reading it is the coil though, but the module below it could cause similar problems. Are those verified to be good already? You can look on shoebox's site and get some troubleshooting info.

Definitely fix any plug wires.

As far as the plugs... make sure the tips on those TR55's are tight, they like to come unscrewed and sometimes aren't tight to begin with. If you're going to change plugs anyway, a regular ol' Autolite plug would do you right. With your compression you should probably close the gap a bit over the stock spec's. I'm sure others with similar setups can comment on what is working well for them.

Fbody4Ever

iTrader: (15)

Also, sounds odd, but make sure the temp sensor in the head is not cracked or broken, or just bad. I've seen those things play hell before also.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

sounds like a vacuum leak in the intake manifold
there are a places on the manifold where vac leaks develop
such as the rear egr ports,

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

No need for money

I would honestly check the Cam for correct install. With out scan readings it is more of a shot in the dark. many things could be killing you....

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

Its going to be hard to diagnose until you make sure all the plug wires are good..I would definitely tighten the plug gap...With 12.5:1 and .050 gap you may be blowing out the spark...Try .035", which is what I run with 11.2:1...Also did you leave the screw for timing on the MSD in the stock setting? I have no experience with them other than what I've heard about messing with the adjustment and having issues...Have you contacted Bryan at PCMforless and talked to him? he may be able to help you, too...Who adjusted the valves and how are they set? Also can't rule out an intake leak as said above...

I would first do plug wires and re gap the plugs at .035" and see what happens...good luck...

--Alan

Camaroholic

iTrader: (1)

http://www.akmcables.com/dss.htm

Links to Freescan (Free!), PCMcomm (easy), or TTS Datamaster (the best, but only 20 runs for free).

Datamaster EE will work with your computer. Let me know if you need any help getting set up.

Did you get an in-person tune from Bryan, or is it mail order?

Have you verified that the little foot long optispark harness is in OK shape? Those can go bad and it's hard to notice...

Tony Shepherd

iTrader: (4)

Really sounds like a spark problem. A 95 has a dowel pin drive opti so you will not have a splined shaft. You can install it incorrectly though. Did you line up the dowel pin into the notched hole on the opti? There are three holes the dowel pin can fall into. Make sure it is in the one with the slot. Like mentioned above replace those wires asap!! Let us know. If you can pull the codes that will really help. May be a Mass Air Flow sensor issue

Topless TA

iTrader: (10)

believe it or not the problem you are reffering to sounds exactly like the issue we had on a slightly modded 95 ta.........we were looking at the same issues and started throwing a intermitten code after throwing o2's at before opti and other big parts.

We double checked the wires............#7 looked a little melted so we replaced it #8 had a tiny cut replaced and still no help .......... turned out the #4 and #6 got criss crossed by the shop that did the heads replaced them and Vrooooooooooooom went back and did the rest just so they were all new.

dont know that it will help but worth a looking at the wireing diagram online and confirming they are right.

Dirty

I live in warren. i just did a swap into my 67 camaro and had problems very similar. shoot me a pm and maybe we can get together and figure the damn thing out. sounds dumb but my spuddering was comming from my alt. trigger wire not being hooked up. so under higher rpm my fuel pump was cutting out!

saywhenn94

I'm also in Warren, I have access to a Tech 2. I can get the DTC's out for you and maybe help diagnose.

Rich

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

If you have an AKM cable you loaded a tune with then you already have what you need to read the code, just dl datamaster or freescan.

transam5.7lt1

iTrader: (18)

Take the car to your nearest Advance Auto Parts, they have a scanner that reads codes(OBD1 and OBD2+GlobalOBD2), 94-95 are still OBD1, but these years require a scanner. You can have them read the codes for you or you can also buy a scanner that'll do the job, it will run you about $34.99, part #CP9001 made by Actron..... by the way, here's a picture of the scanner

infinitebird

iTrader: (11)

The thing is 95 is obd1 but has an obd2 connector port, that's why some people have trouble finding places that can read codes for them.

98TA_vert

the scanner they have at advance will work just tell them to set it for 95 camaro and use the obd2 cable (I work at one)

redhot lt-1

iTrader: (2)

sent e-mail forgot to tell you take it to the dealer for a scan the can pull up things that other scanners can`t look with my car a friend of mine`s owns a shop and has top of the line scanner and still couldn`t pick up a bad abs sencor in my front hub assembly they picked up first thing wish i was closer i would love to put my hands on it and help you

transam5.7lt1

iTrader: (18)

ABS is different, he's looking to get a read from the "Service Engine Soon" light... not ABS...

TravisA

iTrader: (4)

Bad computer/pcm......

steiger99

Ok I got datamaster to pull up two codes for why my service engine soon light is on. Code 15 and code 22. It is "coolant temp low" and "TPS low". Should I just replace both of those sensors (TPS and ECT sensor located on the waterpump) and reset the battery to see if the light goes off. Also since the car runs should I use datamaster to record while I am driving or just keep fixing the codes until the light goes off. I do have a small intake manifold leak that is leaking a small amount of oil on the back of the intake manifold where i used permatex on the part that isn't covered by the original gaskets. Is this something I need to fix before I can get the car to run better or is this small leak a possible cause as to why my ses light is on and my car misses at higher rpms. I also have set the my spark plug gap to .035 as recommended above and have a new coil and new coild wire and new plugs and new wire set. I have a new gasket in the mail but since it is a LT4 manifold I think I am just going to order a ported LT1 intake manifold and hope that manifold fits better. I will run the car tomorrow to see if anything has changed my hesitation/bogging problem. If for some reason none of these changes make a difference, what else could it possibly be? I must say it is very frustrating staring at $6000 worth of motor and accessories that isn't even able to leave the driveway without running like crap