jakes95z28

i was looking into the LE3 package and i wanted to know how much power it makes at the wheels on a stock moter

Bowtie Boy

first thing, is first...do you have emissions where you are? LE3 is not emissions compatiable

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

400-450 rwhp with appropriate supporting bolt ons.....
many satisfied customers w/all of the available packages from eportworks

MrCadillac

isn't it the cam that makes it none compatable? I'm sure Brett can spec a cam to work with that package and have it pass emissions.

scrmnws6

iTrader: (7)

I believe that the LE3 cam will require cut pistons in order to clear the valves opening as much as they do.

If you have a stock bottome end, and drive the car on a regular basis then go with the LE2. If its a drag queen, then go with the LE3. The LE2 is very street friendly.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Hmmmm....

I take it the new LE3 cam is over .600 lift? I ran a fairly big cam with my old LE heads that had 2.055int and 1.58 Ext valves. We had plenty of clearance. the key is to get it installed properly AND to CHECK your Piston to valve clearance.

How many here even check there P to V?

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

When did you boys ever get to thinking piston notches deal with max lift? It has to do with the overlap events and the size of the valves, not the max lift.

FWIW the LE3 heads and cam are not ment to be run on a stock bottom end. It's a short trip to done-blown-up-stock-bottom-end-ville. You need a 355 or stroker to run these heads.

Bret

jakes95z28

thanks for the info, i was planning on doing the bottem end later ill look into the LE2

scrmnws6

iTrader: (7)

Thats what I meant Bret. Not max lift and such.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Bret you well know it has to do with both I ran some pretty big cam's on my stock bottom end shifting at 7,000 for over four years I was running 2.08 valves on one set of heads and 2.055s on the other. I did keep LSA to 112 with 298/306 duration. I am sure .032 factory piston to deck and .026 Imp gaskets did not hurt either.

BUT you are right. you can have 3inch's of lift if the piston is at BDC

Just HOW big is the LE3 cam now amyways? I saw one that was Identical to the one I sped's out for my engine a year and a half ago

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

Well order up a new cam for your rocket and you get closer to finding out.

Bret

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

LOL and find out it is the same one I have

We will see. I might change this winter. my POS cam served me well this year.

SO just to get this straight you do not recomend people checking piston to valve? THAT WAS the main point I was trying to get across.

Not sure what I did to **** you off but I will try to be better

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

No checking P to V is a good idea, I try to design the setups to not need that done and on a LT motor it's easier to do than a LS.

FWIW the new design isin't close to your cam, we definatly went different ways there.

Bret

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

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A lot of people don't seem to understand this. If it is a factory short block, it depends more on how much it made stock. They all gain about the same, but I have dyno tested stock A4 LT1 cars everywhere from 225 to 290 SAE rwhp, M6 cars from 238 to 315. The higher powered stockers will make the higher powered head & cam cars. It is more about how well your short block's rings are sealed, and how much the block moves around when up to operating temp. If it is a "built" short block, it then depends on the machinest/builder, and how much the block moves around when up to temp. Guys that hot hone them will tell you not all blocks, or even all cylinders in a given block, move the same amount from room temp to hot. Dart & Bowtie blocks are much more consistent. Nobody that has a clue about this stuff is going to tell you a given cam and cylinder heads will make your car produce X amount of power. They can tell you they will support a certain level of power, doesn't mean YOUR car will make that much. I have had automatic trans LE3 packages come here and make from 385 to 450 rwhp, they just can't gaurantee you how much you will make. May not seem fair, but such is life.

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

Ed, I've never talked to a block guy who does killer work who is into hot honing yet. All of the good ones I know aren't convinced by the evidence that it helps yet, and from guys i've talked to a Cup shops they don't either. I'm always open ears to what you have heard/seen though. I will agree that a well built and machined short block is worth power.

Bret

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Like I said, the Darts, Bowties, and Aurora blocks they use in Comp, don't move around that much. Stock stuff does, and not even all the same. Seems to be no value wth a good block, and most guys runnig factory the crap most of us use couldn't afford it anyway. The guy I know says the hot honing equipment and time spent was a waste of his time and money.

Still, the cars that are weak in stock form, very seldom (never from what I have seen so far) make the high numbers with the same cam & heads as a strong stocker. I think ring seal is probably the biggest deal there. I feel like telling a guy he will make X hp, without knowing if it made decent power in stock form, is doing nobody any favors. The gains, however, seem pretty consistent.

SStrokerAce

iTrader: (2)

The gains being consistant are good to hear. Means what we give them is consistant.

I totally get the concept of hot honing, I just don't see it translating to real world power. Then again I don't see the point of going to rings smaller than 1.2mm unless you have pistons made with gods ringlands.

Bret

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Bret, with a factory block he tells me a 1% gain is about average, and pretty much zilch on a good block. My ring land/machinist guy (Dick Moritz) died a few years ago. (He was also making John Forces titanium clutch floaters) I bought my pistons with no top ring grooves. I lapped the rings, then Dick cut the grooves to my specs. Done right, it is certainly worth some power. Dick was probably the best machinst I know. Patterson Racing Engines has a pretty good handle on that right now.

I get to dyno and tune lot of cars in stock form, and again after heads and cams, or just cams. The stronger ones in stock form have so far been the stronger cars after the new parts.
A lot of people come in telling me "This head and cam combo is supposed to make 440 rwhp", And I know the car only made 250 stock. I know it's going to be a long day.

Ed